Installing Bed Rails and 5th wheel Hitch

[greyghost]

Just purchased bed rails and a 5th wheel slide out hitch. I'm on the fence about having the install done by the dealer or doing it myself.



I did the install of the Airlift air bags myself along with all the other mods on the truck. Just wondering if its worth the time and busted knuckles.



How difficult is it than installing the air bags or is it easier than a clutch?





Any help is greatly appreciated.



regards,



Garrett

 

[wsurf]

Installed the 5th in mine. Not very hard, but you should read the TSB about welding and hole drilling. I made sure I had brackets that fit and took my time. One trick I learned was to remove the spare tire, gave me all kinds of room under there for access. I used the Resse brackets in the back and generic in the front. Hitch is a "Little Rocker" (15K). If you installed bags then this is no sweat. By the way the local RV places wanted $300 to $400 and I think it cost me $150 maybe. Took a Saturday to put it in. Go for it !!

 

[CROW]

I installed a Pull Rite automatic slider hitch in my truck and the job wasn't too bad. If you decide to do it yourself, be sure to check the alignment of the bed with the cab. Mine was off a tad and caused the holes that I drilled to be off a little, but not so far that I had to redrill.

 

[greyghost]

Another ?

Thanks guys,



Got another one, maybe two questions.



The rails are from Valley they came with an install kit made specific for the Dodge. The instruction say to put the King pin center line 1" aft the centerline of the axle. Well after doing a search and reading over 15 pages, it seems that would not be a good idea and to place the King pin right over the center of the axle. I have a Short Bed Quad Cab.



Second, the kit comes with 2 "L" brackets which will bolt thru the frame in two places. It also has 2 carriage bolts with cylindrical spacer meant to be placed between the bed and frame. They show the front rail being bolted down to the frame using the carriage bolts and spacers and using the "L" brackets at the rear rail. Is this similar to what yours looks like. There would only be four bolts holding the entire system to the truck. (doesn't seem right)



regards,



Garrett

 

[klenger]

I would suggest doing the install yourself. I've heard too many installations botched up by "professional" installers. Once they drill a hole in the wrong place on your frame, you have to live with it, not them. I installed the Draw-Tite on my truck and it was no big deal. Just work very carefully.



My system used 4 L brackets, each with 2 bolts through the frame.



Being 1" behind the axle on a SB is no big deal IMHO. The leverage at that point is so small that you will never notice it, and the extra clearance to the cab is good.

 

[RThompson]

I installed a 16K Valley sliding hitch. Ended up puttiing it right over axle center. The forward rail bolts lined up well thru the formed crossmember under the bed. I notched the end of the crossmember a bit and installed 3/4" pipe spacers into the crossmember. Measure twice and drill once!

r

 

[greyghost]

Thanks

Thanks for the info,



RThompson, how do ya like that hitch, its the same one I just bought. They thru in a gooseneck mounting plate and ball as well. It uses the same rails as the 5th does. Have you heard of anyone using it. (need to be able to pull both a GN and 5th).



regards,



Garrett

 

[Ron Bissett]

I have installed my hitch on three trucks now same hitch . Dodge states not to drill or bolt to the flange or within One inch of the flange (Top) . I use four bolts in the frame to rails and four carriage bolts in the rail to body with spacers for bed and large washers for under bed . Assemble the hitch rail and legs of hitch ,slide into position as shown on assy plan plan check where every thing lines up and will allow bolts to connect rails to frame without hitting with Any spring or other moving parts. Check for mounting of brackets and not under the cross members of bed . After finding where you wan't hitch use small drill and drill through the rail at the hole for the rail to bracket use a wire like a coat hanger on all four L bracket holes . Mark position for L brackets then use a dept stop or tape for keeping from going to far and into the fuel tank check behind the frame for wires and fuel lines use a metal shield (scrap ) or flattened out tin can to keep from hitting any thing if you goof up. A slider is recommender for a short bed as you will not have much room to turn the rig with out hitting the cab . Extender pin will only let you hit the cab further down to the front of the cab. You can after install of hitch test with a mock up of extended pin box and front of trailer made of wood Only one side is needed from center of pin box its four feet to side of trailer on eight foot wide . Set pin mock up in hitch and rotate toward the cab as if making turn stop short of hitting the cab . Thats your limit . Some think you can just figure it out on paper and it will work and some times it will . But a mock up takes only a few min to make and will convince you . A mock up for long bed will tell if the front of trailer will hit the bumper . Some like mine is real close to hitting the corner of the pumper about two inches in a tight turn . Hope this helps some one . Ron Bissett in Metro Louisville KY P. S use two bolts on each bracket to frame.

 

[RThompson]

Greyghost,,,

The hitch is ok. Good welds, decent design and latches securely.

However I don't care for the extra movement that the slider has. Kinda noisy sometimes. Pins have certain amount of slack that seems to worsen with use. About 25k miles towing with it and not sure it is that much benefit with the trailer we pull. Trailer has some nice aerodynamic cutbacks on the forward edge that gives fair amount of trailer to cab clearance. With our previous trailer (Alpenlite) the slider would be a must have.

Ron Bissett offers some good advice on mounting. The provided serated studs are a neat way to secure to the frme. The spacer in the bed crossmember can be used with flat washers to provide a strong connection to the L brackets. Feel free to e-mail if you have questions.

 

[greyghost]

Thanks Ron,



Any info is good info and anything to will keep me out of the tall grass is greatly appreciated.



Thanks RThompson,



I'll probably take you up on your offer.



So 4 bolts on the rails is enough, no other mfg. uses more? I figured with using the rail system with a GN attachment rated at 25k they would beef this up. The 5th is rated to 16k. 9k is an awful big jump. (trucks GCWR is 20k so a 4k jump between GN and 5th)



Just don't want to see the middle of my bed torn to ****, or worse having the whole thing come unhinged.



I've discuss this will the dealer (3 different guys) and I'm getting the "we done millions of these with no problems" but when I asked how many were doing what I was doing and if they had any names and numbers, I got a blank stare. Now I'm wondering if I should go with a different sytle GN setup. Humm to be or not to be.





regards,



Garrett

 

[RThompson]

Each L bracket has two studs for a total of eight on our hitch mounts.

r

 

[Ron Bissett]

Why only four bolts? the brackets are only about 3 in wide at the mounting point . The rails about 7 inches or so . One side must be attached to the bed ,spacers must be used in the valley of the bed to keep from pulling through and spacer large under the bed must be used . Ron Bissett In Metro Louisville KY

 

[greyghost]

RThompson and others,



Thanks for all the info. Bit the bullet, grab'er by the horns, ready for the ride. Starting the install tonight. RThompson, how late are you going to be up tonight... just kidding.





I hope this isn't get out of hand. These hitches have been install and are being used all day every day so I'm not to concern with the standard 5th wheel installation. (This being the first one for me, install and all. Have had a couple of GNs though)



But having to pull a GN by a non-traditional method has me a little nervous. The typical GN setup is a huge bulky cross member that is welded and/or bolted in between the frame rails. I does not mount or have anything to do with the bed of the truck. In fact you have to cut a large hole in the bed. (I'm propably tell you all something you all ready know but bare with me).



Since these rail have a bolt in each end, 2 per rail. The front rail bolts directly to the frame. The rear rail bolts to an "L" bracket which in turn is bolted to the frame by 2 studs(2 Stud per "L" bracket). So 4 point of attachment at the rails. Fishplated by the bed to keep the rails from flexing and flat spacers and pipe spacers to keep everything from moving around.



20k on 4 bolts, stress and strain, bending moments ouch. Would like to know if anyone has been using this 5th / GN rail system. Just looking for the good tummy roll not the bad one.





regards,



Garrett