Attention: TDR Forum Junkies For those getting ready to purchase an EGT gauge this bit of info may be of interest. There are a few lessons learned and more than one trip to the local auto parts store. The installation was on a 2006 automatic with A/C and dual batteries.
Afer reading many of the posts on this and other forums I found there are several approaches to performing the install. Drop the exhaust mainifold, Plug the exhaust pipe and idle the engine (creates back pressure that will hopfully blow out filings,) use greased drill bits and taps, and lastly drop the turbo. I elected the last option.
The Installation
First came the task of dropping the turbo, and this proved to be the most difficult step. Breaking the 4 nuts loose took several hours of work. Those who have gone throught this exercise will know what I am talking about. The right hand two attachment nuts are so close to the machined recess in the exhaust manifold that a box end wrench will not fit. Oh, and while I'm at it, took me a moment to realize that the nuts were 15mm metric. I did have a combo 15mm wrench but not a 15mm socket, which is a size not normally included in your basic metric tool sets. (off to the local parts store) The 15mm socket 3/8" drive fit like a glove, success... So I thought, the clearance between the top of the socket and the bottom of the manifold would not permit the installation of a 3/8" breaker bar let along a ratchet. Hmmmmmmmm, now what? Mind you this is the first of 4 nuts. Here I had two options, grind down the box end wrench, which in hindsight probably would have worked, or create a special tool using the socket. I took the latter approach and proceeded to weld a 10" handle to the side of the socket. Perfect fit, Success..... Not so fast... . Next I discovered that the nuts were so tight I could not break either of the two right hand nuts. What the hell... . By the way I'm 6' 2" , 225lb and pretty well built. Now I faced the delima of trying to figure out if the nuts were in some way pinned , lock tighted to the studs, or just plain tight. (Off to the dealer to disuss the issue with the diesel mechanic) Of course he is on vacation. OK, damm it, I will not be deterred.
Back in the garage, with a 500deg exhaust manifold/turbo to contend with, I decided that enough is enough. I installed my custom socket, added just a bit of an extension, ( The A/C lines an the 2nd battery created a bit of a clearance issue) positioned my self such that I could exert the maximum leverage possible and pushed. A few grunts later, was that a bit of motion I detected? One more push and the nut broke free. Free to the point that I could unthread it by hand. Next I tackled the second right hand nut and with a few more grunts it also broke free. YaHoo. Now on to the left hand nuts which are threaded into the bottom of the exhaust manifold flange. Under the truck I go, where are they? There they are, looking down at me from just above the turbo. The front nut was directly accessable but because of the distance involved my 3/8 drive did not have the rigidity to break the nut free. It would just flex to what I considered to be just shy of snapping in two... OK, well I'll just use my half inch drive and be done with it. . OOPs don't have a 1/2" extension long enough. (Off to the parts store, using my wifes car). Using the 1/2" drive with the long extension made short work of the front nut. By the way for the two remaining nuts I used a 15mm 6point socket to reduce the chance of stripping them. On to the last nut. Hmmmmm, this nut is located above and just to side of the waste gate operating arm which does not allow a clean shot to the nut. Even with the addtion of a univeral joint ( which took another trip to the parts store) no go. At this point I should have realized that a 1/2" wobble head extension would have been the answer. But I proceeded to use what I had and, even with the slight off angle was able to break the last nut free.
When I attempted to push the turbo down in order to gain a bit of clearance I realized the front exhaust pipe support bracket would need to be removed. Finally, an easy task.
Now I had approx 5/8" of clearance into which I could easily insert my little finger. I confirmed that the exhaust manifold did have a center casting which would necessitate locating the probe to one side. I elected to install it on the forward side of the center casting.
One last, precaution I took prior to any drilling. First, I stretched a white wash cloth over the turbo inlet. Next I inserted a piece of sheet metal to which I had attached two 1/16" flat magnetic sheets (about the size of credit cards and can be cut with a pair of sissors). Next I drilled a pilot hole, followed by a letter R drill (. 339) and tapped the resulting hole with a 1/8" tap. I did grease the tap to capture the tap shavings.
For clean up I used a que tip to clean up the hole, followed by a good blast of pressed air. Installed the EGT fitting and probe, and finally removed the sheet metal. The magnets had done their job of catching every bit of metal shavings. When I removed the wash cloth, it was just a clean as when it went in. Reinstalled the 4 turbo attachent nuts and the exhaust pipe bracket.
Connected the wiring to the EGT gauge, and JOB COMPLETE.
I hope that the info and lessoned learned in this post will help those who are contemplating installed an EGT gauge.
Breaking the turbo mounting nuts/bolts is not an easy task. Make sure you have all the tools necessary before starting. Especially the 15mm socket or wrench you plan to use for the right front mounting nut.
Installing the EGT probe is very straight forward, and I would say a POC. Keep it clean and go the extra mile to fully cover the turbo inlet... . Don't want anything to slip through that 5/8" gap between mounting flanges. You know exactly where its going to go, along with your warranty as soon as you start the engine.
Happy EGT Installs to all
Jerry K.
Afer reading many of the posts on this and other forums I found there are several approaches to performing the install. Drop the exhaust mainifold, Plug the exhaust pipe and idle the engine (creates back pressure that will hopfully blow out filings,) use greased drill bits and taps, and lastly drop the turbo. I elected the last option.
The Installation
First came the task of dropping the turbo, and this proved to be the most difficult step. Breaking the 4 nuts loose took several hours of work. Those who have gone throught this exercise will know what I am talking about. The right hand two attachment nuts are so close to the machined recess in the exhaust manifold that a box end wrench will not fit. Oh, and while I'm at it, took me a moment to realize that the nuts were 15mm metric. I did have a combo 15mm wrench but not a 15mm socket, which is a size not normally included in your basic metric tool sets. (off to the local parts store) The 15mm socket 3/8" drive fit like a glove, success... So I thought, the clearance between the top of the socket and the bottom of the manifold would not permit the installation of a 3/8" breaker bar let along a ratchet. Hmmmmmmmm, now what? Mind you this is the first of 4 nuts. Here I had two options, grind down the box end wrench, which in hindsight probably would have worked, or create a special tool using the socket. I took the latter approach and proceeded to weld a 10" handle to the side of the socket. Perfect fit, Success..... Not so fast... . Next I discovered that the nuts were so tight I could not break either of the two right hand nuts. What the hell... . By the way I'm 6' 2" , 225lb and pretty well built. Now I faced the delima of trying to figure out if the nuts were in some way pinned , lock tighted to the studs, or just plain tight. (Off to the dealer to disuss the issue with the diesel mechanic) Of course he is on vacation. OK, damm it, I will not be deterred.
Back in the garage, with a 500deg exhaust manifold/turbo to contend with, I decided that enough is enough. I installed my custom socket, added just a bit of an extension, ( The A/C lines an the 2nd battery created a bit of a clearance issue) positioned my self such that I could exert the maximum leverage possible and pushed. A few grunts later, was that a bit of motion I detected? One more push and the nut broke free. Free to the point that I could unthread it by hand. Next I tackled the second right hand nut and with a few more grunts it also broke free. YaHoo. Now on to the left hand nuts which are threaded into the bottom of the exhaust manifold flange. Under the truck I go, where are they? There they are, looking down at me from just above the turbo. The front nut was directly accessable but because of the distance involved my 3/8 drive did not have the rigidity to break the nut free. It would just flex to what I considered to be just shy of snapping in two... OK, well I'll just use my half inch drive and be done with it. . OOPs don't have a 1/2" extension long enough. (Off to the parts store, using my wifes car). Using the 1/2" drive with the long extension made short work of the front nut. By the way for the two remaining nuts I used a 15mm 6point socket to reduce the chance of stripping them. On to the last nut. Hmmmmm, this nut is located above and just to side of the waste gate operating arm which does not allow a clean shot to the nut. Even with the addtion of a univeral joint ( which took another trip to the parts store) no go. At this point I should have realized that a 1/2" wobble head extension would have been the answer. But I proceeded to use what I had and, even with the slight off angle was able to break the last nut free.
When I attempted to push the turbo down in order to gain a bit of clearance I realized the front exhaust pipe support bracket would need to be removed. Finally, an easy task.
Now I had approx 5/8" of clearance into which I could easily insert my little finger. I confirmed that the exhaust manifold did have a center casting which would necessitate locating the probe to one side. I elected to install it on the forward side of the center casting.
One last, precaution I took prior to any drilling. First, I stretched a white wash cloth over the turbo inlet. Next I inserted a piece of sheet metal to which I had attached two 1/16" flat magnetic sheets (about the size of credit cards and can be cut with a pair of sissors). Next I drilled a pilot hole, followed by a letter R drill (. 339) and tapped the resulting hole with a 1/8" tap. I did grease the tap to capture the tap shavings.
For clean up I used a que tip to clean up the hole, followed by a good blast of pressed air. Installed the EGT fitting and probe, and finally removed the sheet metal. The magnets had done their job of catching every bit of metal shavings. When I removed the wash cloth, it was just a clean as when it went in. Reinstalled the 4 turbo attachent nuts and the exhaust pipe bracket.
Connected the wiring to the EGT gauge, and JOB COMPLETE.
I hope that the info and lessoned learned in this post will help those who are contemplating installed an EGT gauge.
Breaking the turbo mounting nuts/bolts is not an easy task. Make sure you have all the tools necessary before starting. Especially the 15mm socket or wrench you plan to use for the right front mounting nut.
Installing the EGT probe is very straight forward, and I would say a POC. Keep it clean and go the extra mile to fully cover the turbo inlet... . Don't want anything to slip through that 5/8" gap between mounting flanges. You know exactly where its going to go, along with your warranty as soon as you start the engine.
Happy EGT Installs to all
Jerry K.
