2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Installing guages this weekend

[Horsepuller]

I am going to use this long weekend as my chance to install my gauges. I am installing a Westach combo (egt/boost) and a fuel pressure guage. I have a dual pod A-pillar mount, all from Geno's.



Here are my concerns.



1. Should I do this by myself or pay to have it done? I can do easy mehcanical tasks (I have a carpentry background), like changing the starter, brakes, oil and fuel filters, lift pump etc. but don't know much about 12V auto electric. I want the lights in the gauges controlled with the light switch. Both gauges came with most of the goodies needed to complete the installation.



2. Fuel pressure gauge: I plan on using the NPT test port after the fuel filter to hook my hose to. Where should I attach the isolator. I have an 18" hose. Any better ideas?



3. For the boost and EGT I have to drill and tap my holes. Never done this before but directions look pretty easy. I will also need to buy a drill and tap set, any suggestions on brand, type?



I should've bought a Painless Wiring Kit from Geno's but it is too late now. Is this something that Auto Parts stores might carry?



Any overall suggestions? Thanks

 

[DOUGMartin]

You should be good on your own. Just lay it all out and plan before you start try and run your hose for the fuel guadge before you mount then you will find the best place for it. I did my fuel gaudge on the out bango bolt from the filter. The drilling and tapping isnt bad at all like I said before just plan it out and follow directions and make sure when you are drilling and tapping use grease and make sure you get ALL shavings out after. Good luck and have fun. Oo. Oo.

 

[Billy Diesel]

On my '02 I didn't need to drill and tap for the boost. There was a plug kind of under the intake horn on the driver's side.



I would also recommend getting the tapped banjo fitting form Geno's, and using that to replace the one under the fuel filter and then conect the isolator to that. That way if you need to bring it in for service, and the dealer wants to use the port, they can easily.



I mounted my isolator on the firewall, just drilled some holes.



The instructions for the gauges should tell you which fuse to connect to so the lights come on and off with the truck's lights. If it doesn't say, call Geno's. They should be able to help.



BTW, I used this link for the pre-turbo pyro:

http://gatewaydieselownersassociation.com/default.php?h_display=1&how_to=EGT

 

[Horsepuller]

Good ideas. I like the tapped banjo bolt idea, would this provide post filter pressure? I like the idea of post filter pressure because if I see low pressures, I would start with the filter. If the pressure returns to normal then it was just the filter, no need to mess with the LP. Do all '02s have a fitting for the boost?

 

[Thomas]

. . . would this provide post filter pressure? . . .

It will if you use the banjo at the outlet of the water separator/fuel filter.

 

[MPlunkett]

I'm going to go against the grain here and advocate farming this job out. I just had the Westach FP, Dual EGT/Boost and AT temp gauge on the the triple pod in my truck. I could have done the install, however I would have needed to buy/borrow a tap and die set, would have destroyed my a post, made a bad electrical connection and burned my truck down. I have a great diesel shop here and they only charged about 2. 5 hrs of labor for the job. Everything works flawlessly and the lights come on and dim with the factory headlights. I know most people on this site are big DIY'ers, and I do a majority of my own work, but I felt this was money well spent. Besides, when something goes wrong, they can fix it. Just my 2cents.



Mike

 

[Sticks]

I am going to use this long weekend as my chance to install my gauges. I am installing a Westach combo (egt/boost) and a fuel pressure guage. I have a dual pod A-pillar mount, all from Geno's.



Here are my concerns.



1. Should I do this by myself or pay to have it done? I can do easy mehcanical tasks (I have a carpentry background), like changing the starter, brakes, oil and fuel filters, lift pump etc. but don't know much about 12V auto electric. I want the lights in the gauges controlled with the light switch. Both gauges came with most of the goodies needed to complete the installation.

You can do it! Drill, selection of drill bits, 1/4NPT tap, 7/16 drill bit for the hole (someone please correct me if I am wrong!), wrenches, sockets, volt meter, extra wire, wire loom, butt/end connectors, splice, wire tap, basic electircal crimper, coat hanger for pulling the wires/hoses into the cab, ability to read and understand instalation directions, a good botrtle of hooch, blah blah blah.

2. Fuel pressure gauge: I plan on using the NPT test port after the fuel filter to hook my hose to. Where should I attach the isolator. I have an 18" hose. Any better ideas?

Ditto the dirlled and tapped banjo bolt therory for the bottom ogf the fuel filter. You should also pick up a needle valve, and or a grease gun hose as an isolator. Now you will need extra 1/8 compression fittings, and 1/8NNPT couplers, elbow, and so on. This is part of the "Lay everything out" plan. Clear a spot on your workbench, or on the floor next to the truck, and start with the first part and visualize how everything will connect all the way to the gauge. If you need a part, put it on the list, and get a couple of extra. You can always return them.

[

3. For the boost and EGT I have to drill and tap my holes. Never done this before but directions look pretty easy. I will also need to buy a drill and tap set, any suggestions on brand, type?

EGT will need a 7/16 drill bit ( I think!!), and a 1/4NPT tap. Various instructions can be found via search for EGT gauge install. Some remove the four mounting bolts for the turbo, others just drill away. Using grease on the drill and tap, and cleaning the drill frequently will reduce the amount of shavings. Also a strong magnet under the point where you are drilling, and probe magnet to fish out the shavings works well.



BOOST - there is a port on the side of the engine block forward of the map sensor, and behind the fuel filter than can be removed. The hardware store will carry a reducer in the gas pipe section. I think it is like a male 3/4NPT plug with a 1/4 NPT hole. Galvanized is OK, stainless is better. There is also a boost bolt that can be had (from Genos as well I think) that replaces one of the intake manifold bolts. I personally started with the port on the side, and moved it when I got the bolt. You can also remove, and drill and tap the intake hat, but I think it looks cleaner with one of the first two options mentioned above.

I should've bought a Painless Wiring Kit from Geno's but it is too late now. Is this something that Auto Parts stores might carry?



Any overall suggestions? Thanks

Yes. Although you don't really need it for the gauges. You can buy a 4 port fuse block, 30 amp relay, some wire, and if you have a soldering gun, make one yourself.



Finding the wire for hte lights/dimmer is not that bad. I think it is the brown one on the back of the light switch. To do this, remove the dash bezel, remove the light switch assembly, and pull enough of it out so you can see the wires. With the volt meter set to measure 12vdc, attach the black lead to ground in a fashon that you do not have to hold it. Turn on your park lights, and while adjusting the dimmer switch up and down, check each wire until you get a reading that coresponds with the dimmer. That is the wire you want to tap into for your gauge lights.



On a personal note. Westach makes a nice gauge. The conenctions in the back have got to be one of the most mickey mouse things that I have ever dealt with. Straight pins with collars on the wire end that "Just slip on", and a little plastic sleeve to insulate it. I have issopro gauges on my truck, and installed a set of westachs on a buddies truck. PITA! The barbed hose fitting for the boost gauge did not build my confidense either. Get some small zip ties to use as a hose clamp. You might also want to think of upgrading to a heavier gauge hose. The aforementioned buddy, well I just had to replace his boost hose due to three holes in it, in less than 1 year. These were not wear holes, one looked like a cut, and the other two looked like splits. It was not in a position or area where it was subject to abuse.





Remeber, a shop will bill 2 or more hours to do this, and they are good at it. Plan on this being an all day event, and take your time to do it right.

 

[Nelson]

For the lights I tapped into the light in the ashtray, i'ts easy and you don't have to find the right wire on the headlight switch!!

 

[Horsepuller]

Didn't happen this weekend, after reading the posts I realized I needed to order a tapped banjo bolt and some other misc parts. Now I realize I still need to get more. Oh well, better to realize now than when I am under way.



Thanks Sticks for your advice. The advantage of doing it myself is that no one cares more than me about my truck and doing it right. This is something that no amount of money can buy. Also a good excuse to buy some more tools.



I will upgrade the boost hose and then run it in some plastic split loom for added protection. As far as the Westach gauges go, I am pretty green when it comes to knowing a good gauge from a lesser gauge. I chose the Westach because I wanted the gauges to match (fuel and boost/egt). Until recently, I didn't see alot of other manufacturers making fuel pressure gauges. I did notice that the rear connections looked pretty funky. I figured that if they are good enough to be used in aircraft, where gauges are critical, they should work for my truck.

 

[RJOL]

... Fuel pressure gauge: I plan on using the NPT test port after the fuel filter to hook my hose to. Where should I attach the isolator. I have an 18" hose. Any better ideas?



... For the boost and EGT I have to drill and tap my holes. Never done this before but directions look pretty easy. I will also need to buy a drill and tap set, any suggestions on brand, type?

Just take your time and you'll be okay. The manifold is tough stuff to drill through but with a good "sharp" bit you'll get trough it. Make sure you know if your putting in a 1/4 or 1/8 sensor in before you drill and get the proper drill size for this. Drill a little, cleaning the shavings off while you go. When you get close to penitrating the manifold, stop... use a gob of grease on the hole to trap the shavings, and if it builds up, clean it off and put more grease on it. You will get very little shavings in the maniford by doing this. After drilled, use a small magnet (like the ones at auto/tool parts stores) to go into the hole and get the few shavings that might have fallen in. When you tap the hole make sure you use a little oil on the bit and make sure your not tapping at an angle (i. e. the tap should be straight up). Run the magnet back in the hole after you tap it.



For the boost, you can tap the air horn, or you can look for a plug in the block. In the 2001 there is a plug located on the rear of the engine behind the fuel filter that can be removed and a reducer put back in to size it to your boost fittings. If you do a search, you should be able to find this plug on the TDR site.



For the FP the easiest way is to remove the schrader valve (on the VP44 coming from the filter) and put a tapped banjo bolt in its place. Run your hose over to above the wheel well and use wire ties to hold the sender in place.



If your handy with tools and have common sense, you can do this project yourself. If not, or you just don't want to bother... hire a shop to do it for you. Have fun...