2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Installing headlight relay....Wiring Guru Qs

[Ol'TrailDog]

After installing the flatbed w/ extra lights I ended up frying the light switch. I've been reading threads about various setups TDRers have installed. Since I tend to run an order of frys short of a happy meal when it comes to wiring I decide to check some of the DYI kits. have come up with two kits:



Matrix 01-130 - Matrix Upgrade Wiring Harnesses - Overview - SummitRacing.com



Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply



The summit is less expensive so I'm leaning that way. Any opinions or other options that I might consider?



Sounds like I will probably want to do the homemade "Brite Box" option at the same time. It is my understanding that the real Brite Box relays the high beams, but not the low beams. Therefore one of the DYI options may be a better choice. PS: I will also be installing a relay for the flatbed, since that seems to have been the proverbial straw.

 

[GAmes]

Sounds like I will probably want to do the homemade "Brite Box" option at the same time. It is my understanding that the real Brite Box relays the high beams, but not the low beams.

This is the only homemade wiring harness I know of to get both high and low beams on at the same time and it uses only one relay that powers the low beams when the high beams are selected. Ram headlight switching modifications

Do you have a diagram that uses relays for both high and low beams? I'd like to see it if you do. I did mine a little different than Scott. Rather than tapping into the parking light wire to power the low beams I ran another, heavier gauge, fused wire straight from the battery.



edit; I typed this, posted it and kept thinking about it and the light bulb (no pun intended) came on. Have the high beam wire trigger BOTH relays. Another project for tomorrow.

 

[fest3er]

... Have the high beam wire trigger BOTH relays. Another project for tomorrow.

Easy. Jumper the high beam control lead to the low beam control lead through a diode aimed to block current from the low beam control lead back to the high beam control lead. Thus the low beam control will only operate the low beam relay, but the high beam control will operate both.



If my very rusty calculations are correct (P=V*V/R):

• if the control part of the relay is 100 Ohm, you'll need at least a 2. 25W diode.
  
• if it's 250 Ohm, you'll need at least a . 9W diode.
  

I think a 5W diode will guarantee longevity.

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

Fest3er, I hate to say this but I think you are completely wrong.





We are more like one big amorphous blob of centralized government controlled former states instead of "Union of American Socialist Republics". If the states want the money doled out to them they had better behave respectfully, i. e. kowtow to washington as witnessed by the stimulus and now the obamacare bills. In fact, me thinks American and socialist republics in the same sentence is more like an oxymoron.



"When a thing is true, there is no need to use any arguments to substantiate it. -- Vinoba Bhave" IMHO of course.

 

[jelag]

We've installed several flat beds we build for our trucks... . We install a box to the rear of the truck, and a 8 gauge wire from the batteries with a 40 or 50 amp breaker in the engine compartment... we use relays and sockets from Del City - Wiring Products and Professional Electrical Supplies or del-city.net

In the box we use the factory wiring to power the coil on each relay... left, right, stop, tail, Reverse, etc... . as well a using this power to run to our trailer connector and the related wiring .....

Once the 8 gauge wire gets to the trailer it charges the battery and also powers a second box with more relays for the trailer... We've got several units with 250K miles and running fine... we put the box in a dry place where we can easily get to it for service...

We run (4) 35W floods for reverse lights on the trucks and the trailers... . (2) straight back and (2) at 45* angles...

We also don't use LED lights... . in the winter here... . they will snow over, there's not enough heat to keep them melted off... .

We use the same for 100 W, 4529 (I think) aircraft landing lights for driving lights... . We buy a lamp holder for a tractor (farm) that houses a 25W flood light and change it out... . very effect for night driving.....

Hope this helps... .

BTW we use a non-insulated butt connector and shrink tubing that has an adhesive when the tube shrinks... . this makes an excellent water proof connection for any location on the truck...

 

[Joe G.]

The mod for head lights is not that hard. The following is from my '95 service manual. Other years will be similar. The wiring diagram you need to look at is on page 8W-50-2. 12 volts is supplied by a fuse in the PDC. It goes to the headlamp switch on circuit A3. There are two connections from the headlight switch to the dimmer switch, L20 and L2. L20 is for the passing bright lights. We can disregard that one unless you use that a lot. Circuit L2 (16 gauge wire colored light green) is where the mod goes. It sends power to the dimmer switch. Install a fuse and relay that is triggered by L2. The output from the relay goes to the dimmer switch. The headlight part of the headlamp switch has only . 1 amps on it because that is all that is needed to activate the relay.

If you need extra load on the rear circuits a similar mod will do it.

 

[WilsonF]

Here is another option for a relay kit. They used to have a schematic you could build your own system from.

/www.madelectrical.com/catalog/rly-1.shtml

Also on my 96 to have both hi/low beam on @ high beam, I just used a $. 15 3M wire splice under the steering wheel instead of a $100 Bright Box it has worked good for years. Sorry I can't find the instructions now.

Floyd

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

Hey! Thanks for all the info. I'm going to get this project done! Couldn't have done it without all your help.

 

[WilsonF]

Here try this:
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/installing-headlamp-relays-t176263.html?t=176263

Just found it last night. Good luck

Floyd

 

[Joe G.]

You don't need a relay for each headlight or a relay for high beam and and another for low beam. One relay between the headlight switch and the dimmer switch will do it. I have one more relay in my lights. It turns on my after market running lights and low beam with I have high beam on. It's bright in front of my truck at night.

 

[flyby night]

[QUOTE[ We've installed several flat beds we build for our trucks... . We install a box to the rear of the truck, and a 8 gauge wire from the batteries with a 40 or 50 amp breaker in the engine compartment... we use relays and sockets from Del City - Wiring Products and Professional Electrical Supplies or del-city.net/QUOTE]

Hey jelag have you ever heard of an outfit called C&K Enterprize. We used to get our stuff from places like del city, but have switched to getting all electrical supplies from C&K. It is a smaller operation, but it is local(South Hill), he stocks a ton of stuff, and his prices are good. He is also very knowledgeable which is hard to find these days.
http://www.ckenterprize.com