Installing tomorrow!!!

[HossDiesel]

Welp, i got my gauges today and are putting them in tomorrow, i hope it ani as bad as i think it will be, anyways, anybody know what the normal boost read out should be on a stock motor?? and what is normal egts, the only thing i have done is put on a strait pipe and K&N, also, i am thinking about take turbo off to put egt prob in, is this a good idea? or is there an easyer way of drillin and tappin???

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99 quad cab 4x4 5spd 355 gears sandstone color K&N air filter starit pipe spray in bed liner goose neck ball- theres nothig like the smell of Diesel in the morning.

 

[ACoyle]

http://www.tstproducts.com/gauge_install.html

That should help.

Andy

 

[EricBu12]

Good going on getting the gauges!
Nothing like having your engine do something without you knowing it. .

I have a totally stock moter 'cept for the turnbuckle on the wastegate. I have both gagues also and on before turnbuckle, I would only get up to 19 PSI on boost, after turnbuckle, I got 24 PSI.
The pyro I have is after turbo and it only gets up to 700 at the max on accelerating. before turbo will be slightly higher like 800 or so.
Don't look at the gagues too long or you might have an accident #ad


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2001 QC 2500 4x4 bronze W/two tone Driftwood, 24valve HO 6sp. Westin side bars, fender flares, Rancho RSX off-road shocks, Spray on bedliner, Leer shell Painted to match with LED marker lights, Bf Goodrich AT Tires. Bed rug inside shell W/aux marine deep cycle batt for lights, etc. M Brolins' CB mount.
Name of rig is "big bronze Brute"

[This message has been edited by EricBu12 (edited 04-20-2001). ]

[This message has been edited by EricBu12 (edited 04-20-2001). ]

 

[csutton7]

no need to remove the turbo-take your time drilling & blow the shavings away as often as possible & then clean the tap after about every 2 turns when tapping--you can use a shop vac to suck up what's inside or small magnet, but if you don't have either of these just fire up the beast and every thing blows out--good luck--use some oil when tapping & antiseize on the threads---chris

 

[arlan]

You will hear many different ways to do this but if you decide not to remove the turbo grease the drill bit and the tap by plunging them into the grease tub. Use a pencil magnet afterwards to catch any thing that escaped the grease. If you really like wrenching on your truck just remove the turbo. I had to make a special wrench, actually just bend one, to get at one of the bolts when removing mine.

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98. 5 ISB QC 3500 4X4 3. 54, PowerMax1, DTT TC & VB, TY303 225/70/19. 5's on Rickson Wheels, 275 Injectors, Mag-Hytec Transmission Pan/Differential Cover, 9000 LB Warn Winch, Ultra Board Running Boards, Westach Combo Boost/EGT Transmission Temperature & Fuel Pressure gauges, Pac Brake, 2-lo kit, CB, GPS, Rancho 9000's, ATS exhaust manifold, JRE 4" exhaust with muffler and resonator. Lifetime NRA Member

 

[jjdiesel]

You should top out at about 20-21 on the boost... . stock.

 

[LSMITH]

Arlan gave you good info, grease the drill and the tap. Clean the drill out good right before you break through, re-grease it and continue through slowly. Pack the tap with grease too and clean it out every two turns or so. A magnet will get anything that might have fallen in. As for as temps I was able to hit 1200* fairly easy stock, and boost was 20 PSI. Good luck.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Everything but leather NRA Member Great Lakes TDR Member

 

[Jetpilot]

Boy did you ask a loaded question... . I am sure you will get an earfull on removing the turbo or not, so here is my opinion. The turbo cost alot to replace and the time to remove it is minimal (especially if you consider the $ per hour if something goes wrong).

I would remove the air intake hose and then unbolt the turbo from the exhaust manifold. Then you can just slide the turbo down and cover the inlet. I used wide tape to cover it so no shavings enter the turbo. Push a clean rag into the exhaust manifold past the point you are drilling. Then just drill and tap as required.

Once finished just clean the shaving from the exhaust manifold (I used a rag and shop vac). Remove the rag from the exhaust manifold and tape from turbo. Bolt back together and no worries about turbo damage.

Good luck,

Doug S.

 

[Bigsaint]

I removed mine for piece of mind, it's only an extra 1/2 hour of your time. Many don't and they seem to be just fine also. If you don't be sure to have a small mechanics magnet to fish through the hole and get all the shavings. My ETH was seeing 20. 5 at max WOT in 6th gear. With the EZ and aftermarket boost elbow I saw 28 psi's, again at WOT. Which ever method you choose, TAKE YOR TIME drilling and tapping, it will be way easier than you might imagine. Good luck and have fun with it, you'll feel good when your done and you can say that you did it yourself.

Scott W.

White 2001. 5 3500 ETH/DEE 4X4 Quad cab SLT,tow package and camper prep,Husky liners front and rear,DiPricol pyro,boost and oil temp gauges,SPA fuel pressure and temp. gauge,Edge EZ,Psychotty air,Bully Dog stage III injectors,ATS 3 piece manifold,HX40 turbo,4" BD exhaust,4" BD E-brake,McLeod clutch,Mallory 4150 lift pump,Mag-Hytec rear,Go-Rhino grill guard,Lund bug shield,PM tractor utility back up lights,Penda bed mat and blow by bottle is bye bye !!! I love the smell of diesel in the morning, it reminds me of... . VICTORY !!!
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089608" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>My Truck</font></A>
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089604" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>THE SAINTS</font></A>

 

[HossDiesel]

Thanks for all the advice guys, i will take all of it into consideration when doing this, i am a little nerveous about drilling on her,oh well, i guess i will get over it, anyways, Thank again!

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99 quad cab 4x4 5spd 355 gears sandstone color K&N air filter starit pipe spray in bed liner goose neck ball- theres nothig like the smell of Diesel in the morning.

 

[csutton7]

Hoss Diesel--I forgot to add when you drill; start small and work your way up to your final bit in 3 or 4 stages---yes you can remove your turbo but there is space enough for everything to blow by if you don't have super large(chunks) pcs of shavings --start small and work up to it and you'll be fine--but you need to decide for yourself--if you do remove the turbo you might want to pick up the oil return gasket on the bottom and another exhaust gasket just in case you need to replace them---chris

 

[pwr2tow]

let us know how the project went.
Ron

 

[Michael Hughes]

When I drilled and tapped my manifold, I loosen the nuts for the turbo and slid a piece of cardboard between the manifold and turbo.

Did my drilling and tapping. Then I started the engine for a couple of seconds. Nothing to it (Thanks Mopars1).

Hope this helps

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1999 2500 ST LB 4X4 Metallic Red, 5-speed, 3. 54 gears, LSD, camper and tow package
Westach Boost/EGT (pre and post turbo) mounted on A pillar.

 

[Big Bry]

Well everyone has there method of doing things. All can be good and work just fine. I did it with the turbo off (since I was changing it anyways with the Banks turbo) and drilled the hole with one size bit. It was a self tapping bit and it went right through without a problem. The manifold is not very hard metal to drill in. Just be careful and keep oil on the bit. Same for threading the hole. It goes real easy. I used a cordless drill to do also. Good luck, it will go easier than it sounds.

Bryan

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Bryan De Boer
I L-O-V-E MY D-O-D-G-E
White 2000 Ram 2500 Quad s/b With a Banks Power Pack

 

[Lordsman]

Hoss,
Max boost should be 17. 7 - 18. 2psi; =/- 1. 5 psi. Wastegate will be fully open at 19psi.
Intake manifold(boost)sensor, w/ ECM, will reduce fuel if 20psi boost is exceeded. On my boost guage my max is right at 18psi.
All spec. info can be found on www.Dodgeram.org (Fritz's Ram Tech)
All stock set-up of course.



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99 2500SLT,QC,4x4,6-spd, 3. 5 lsd,LB,Camper group , Jacobs E-Brake, Autometer Pyro & Boost guages, Rhino liner, Airlift 5000 airbags, Redline hitch,Tekonsha brake control,Diamomd plate bed rails,Dodge grill & splash guards.

 

[Scooby]

Don't use cutting oil when drilling into cast iron! This is what I was told by professional machinests. Do drill slowly since cast iron hardens as it get's hot. I drilled with the turbo on (twice - I have three pyro's). I used Vaseline on the drill bit to catch the shavings in addition to the shop vac. I used a magnet afterwards and then let the tiny particles blow through while the truck idled and then as it warmed up. I think more shavings get in when you tap than when you drill... so keep the tap loaded with vaseline and keep that shop vac at it's side. It's only scary the first time - kinda like a lotta things in life #ad



Stock 21 PSI. Now I hit 39 max but regularly see 36 PSI with the Banks modification.

 

[pwr2tow]

Just my opinion but I would not work up in bit size unless you take the turbo off, the reason is too many shaveings. the proper way usually is to work up in bit size but not in this application JMO. I did like most every one else, just grease up the bit and use a vacum at the same time. I put a smaller pipe inside the shop vac hose to make the opening smaller, taped it in place, then taped it close to the hole I was about to drill. Ron

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1999, 3500, 6x6, slt, auto, 3. 55, Qd cab, ISB cummins, DD stage 1, modified banjo bolts, K&N 0880 with prefilter, triple trailing 2001 26RKSS Tahoe 5th wheel, 1999 120hp 1800 bayliner.