When I installed my Voyager brake controller, I did the following:
1. Bought a "wiring loom" (10 guage wire in a heavy, flexible plastic conduit) and ran the hot wire to the + battery terminal and the ground to the - side of the battery. This is what the instructions stated to do for the best performance.
2. I also installed a 30 amp circuit breaker on the driver's side fender just behind the battery. This was also recommended by the instructions.
3. I "hard wired", or soldered and heat shrinked every conection. That way I only have to do it once.
4. I also ran the hot and ground wires to the rear using the left frame rail. I zip strapped everything down so nothing would be rubbing.
5. Make sure to put a rubber boot over the backside of the plug (where the wires go in) or it will be full of dirt and salt in no time. Some even recommend filling this with silicon grease to help prevent corrosion. I didn't because I didn't have any at the time.
6. Tapping into the trailer light wires was very simple, if you need the color codes let me know.
I am glad I did it this way because I have had no problems in two years. Hope this information can help someone out.
------------------
Jeremy Sweeten 1992 Dodge W-250 4x4 Cummins Diesel, Intercooled,LE Package, 168K, 518 AT, Warner Hubs, Dana 60HD 4,060 lb. front axle and Dana 70 6,084 lb. limited slip rear axle with 3. 54 gears, NPG 205 transfer case, 3. 5" Banks exhaust straight pipe, K&N air filter. 3" rear brakes with 1-1/8" wheel cylinders. Tekonsha Voyager XP electric brake controller. Una-Goose 30,000 lb. gooseneck hitch.
http://home.earthlink.net/~sweeten1/index.htm