Instrumentation - Specifics

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It's time to get serious about adding some instrumentation. I asked my dealer, who's only wisdom was that it would void my warranty. Strange thought, find out what is going on so that you can correctly operate your truck and your warranty is in joepardy. Oh Well! probably the thing they're best trained on.

EGT Guage - My research says that I will be dealing with a type K thermocouple. I seem to recall that thermocouples should be installed with thermocouple wire. Has anyone checked this out? If so and the answer is yes, does it come with the guage, or must you find it? The majority opinion seems to be pre-turbo. Since it's a split manifold, does anyone have any thoughts about which half of the split? Any guidance about placement of the thermocouple would be appreciated.

General installation - Any thoughts on lead dress / favorite techniques to avoid chafing of wires and breaking as time goes by would be approciated. Also, have most of you pulled the turbo to drill the manifold and remove the metal filings or is there a better way.

Finally - Are there any horror studies out there of absolute things or products to avoid?

Thank You!!!!!!!

 

[Archive]

Adillo,You will find may achives on this subject. Most EGT gauges come with the thermocouple wire. My Banks gauge wire was covered with steel braid for the first 18",to get it past the hot area to the firewall. I fed the remaining wire thru 1/4"polytubing to protect it,also did that to the boost gauge tube,it keeps it from kinking. I think the manifold location is best,I removed the turbo,though many folks don't,and drilled to the rear of the web. Main problem that can happen is over tightening the fitting into the manifold causing the manifold to crack,use antiseize on the threads. The thermocouple needs to only protrude 1/4" into the manifold,get right the first time as it isn't a good idea to move it after tightening. Other than that it's a piece of cake.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks,Warn fender flairs and running boards(Play truck)95 3500,5 speed,driftwood,Banks&phscotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(work truck)

 

[Archive]

I installed my Isspro pyro & boost gauges over the weekend. I removed the clamp on the turbo outlet to disconnect it from the exhaust. I then removed the 4 turbo mounting nuts, and was able to move it just off the end of the studs. After covering the inlet with tape and a rag, I drilled and tapped the rear of the manifold, although I don't think it really matters. I found a good diagram on where to drill on TST's web site (under gauges - installation instrucions). Before remounting the turbo, I very briefly started the engine, just a couple revolutions to help blow the shavings out. I know people have successfully done this job with the turbo in place, but I figured I'd spent the extra half hour and play it safe - new turbo's cost a lot more than I make in half an hour.

I routed the pyro wire (included in the kit) along the factory loom , under the gasket/flap where the rear of the hood sits. I was originally going to try to get it inside the loom, but it looked pretty tight already, and I got lazy. It seems fairly well protected there, and it's out of sight (it's an ugly yellow - I hate flashy stuff under the hood - especially chrome). I ran it into the cab through the same large grommet that the facory uses. Just "push" where it says to, it will come right off and make it easier to work the wire and boost line through. The (10') pyro lead was plenty long, I had to coil some of it under the dash (do not shorten this wire). My gauges are mounted atop the steering column.

I agree with illflem, I used the boost port on the intake manifold.

By the way, the 1/4 NPT tap was a PITA to find. I finally found it at Hugh M. Woods (Payless Cashways). Our local Eagle Hardware is now a Lowe's, and it really Blows.

Good luck,

Pete

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'97 2500 CC 4X4 5spd Sport
'83 K5 Blazer 350 TBI (ex 6. 2), 39. 5 TSLs, 3" lift, Dana 60/GM 14 blt, Detroits