insulate my door to kill sound

[Digger-Bear]

Hi, a friend and I are swapping out the speakers in my 92 single cab.



Even though its cold outdoors, I want to drop in some insulation in the door as long as they are opened up.



What’s the best plan of attack? Put the lead type insulation around anywhere we can make it stick (it really does not want to stick to anything at these temps) or should I take some wall fiberglass insulation and stuff it in the bottom of the door??



Thanks!

 

[rlyons]

Don't stuff wall insulation in there as it will collect moisture and rust out your doors. You can put a layer of insulation between the door panel and the door and it will help a lot. You can get it anywhere they sell camper supplies or at most home repair stores. It is a foil covered sort of bubble wrap. We use it to insulate windows and ceiling vents on campers that travel in hot climates. I just did the doors on my son's Honda and it helped a lot. The rubberized spray undercoating will help some but not as much as the other will. It would be good to do in the doors anyway to rustproof but make sure the water drain holes are not plugged with it.

 

[DVolk]

by a few cans of under coating or the rattel can bed liner spray and try that

take the a drop light to heat the door up and put it inther and wait a while a good 60 watt bulb will he it nice and toasty to paint it inside

 

[Moab4x4]

Damplifier

Get a couple of sheets of Damplifier and stick them in there. www.secondskinaudio.com

I like what the stuff did for my cab. ANT(owner) is really responsive and the customer service was fine. I did what he recommended and I think my cab is quieter than my friends 2001 24-valve. I will admit that I used about 80 feet on the entire cab though.

I don't represent them, I am just a happy customer.

Ken

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I've got 130sqft of RaamMat in my truck

 

[Moab4x4]

Forrest, I haven't done my doors yet as I am still swapping parts around. With that 130 feet, did you cover both inner and outer door skins? I am debating doing the outers, I see that the factory (or PO) put a couple of small sheets of alumininized rubbery mat like ours on the outer shell. I don't think I quite have enough to do both surfaces and didn't know if it would be worth buying more to do that. Thanks for any opinions.

Ken

 

[TSuter]

I used the DynaMat Xtreme, don't remember how much, but I did both inner and outer door skins. Skinning the outer blocked the road noise, then doing the inner kept that from vibrating with the music. I like the results



Tom

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I laid a few patches on the large spans of the outer, but most was focused on the inner. don't be affraid to cut 3-6" wide strips off your roll and just run them criss cross over large spans... this bumps up the sound dampening considerably while conserving your roll of deadener. I lay a solid layer over everything, double up on the back of the cab and the roof, and then criss-cross stirps everywhere focusing on large spans. it can get as thick as 6-8 layers in some spots (the important ones)

 

[Moab4x4]

Thanks guys, I suspected that I would want to cover both. Now I am sure. I never thought of using leftover strips in a criss cross pattern though. I will have to try that. I think I will get enough to double the layer behind the seat as there really is nothing else there to cut road noise.



For those that haven't tried this yet, don't worry, you can still hear enough rattle and whine to know you are still not in a gasser. :-laf



I gotta save a couple of strips for the PC though. Have you seen where they are now selling a "Computer quiet package" where they advertise putting a couple of pieces of dampener on the inside of your case to quiet the computer? Great idea - mine is one of those that is "overcooled" and needs muffled.

 

[MXTMOPR]

A Cheap Alternative

I just tore down my wifes Grand Cherokee and found a rubber sheet between the plastic door panel and the steel inner surface of the door. This is a factory sound deadening material and does work quite well. This got me thinking about my big truck. How about Rubber pond liner attached to the back of the plastic door panel with some liquid nails. This way the door panel can be removed to access the inner door area without that damn plastic sheet getting in your way.

Also, using an adhesive and sticking a product to the back of your metal door skin may in the future trap moisture and cause the door skin to rust. Not to mention the fun time you will have putting your hands up between the window mechanism and the outer door skin to do the install.

I'm going to make a few inner door panel skins using the pond liner and post some pics in the near future for you guys to critique.

 

[Moab4x4]

I would look online at some of the Dynamat or alternative sites to see how the stuff works. If all you are doing is insulating then the pond liner has some merit, but the self stick deadners actually dampen the vibrations in the metal. In order to do that they have to be mechanically attached to the entire surface of the metal. I guess if you spread the liquid nails evenly over the surface, the pond liner could work in the same way.

If you are just trying to seal the door with a thicker plastic, it would work as well.



One low budget alternative in low temperature climates is to use Ice and Water Shield from the hardware store. It is a bitumous sticky black sheet that is used in roofing to replace the tar paper in certain applications. Our hardware store sells it in 12" rolls to flash windows in new construction. as well as the industrial 36" rolls. That stuff also sticks to the metal and the asphalt in the bitumous compound dampens the sound vibrations. I thought about using this stuff because I just am just finishing my house and I have some left over so $=0. I decided not to for two reasons. #1 For a time it outgasses and smells like a new road. #2 ,more importantly, reportedly around 180 F it melts and I didn't want a puddle in my door and everywhere else in my cab. I live in the desert southwest and car interior do get that hot. The stuff I went with is from Phoenix, AZ and is rated to ~ 500F.

I think I may use some of the free stuff I have in my shop on the insides of the fenders and under the hood to reduce engine noise. If it melts there, no biggie.



If you go with the pond liner though, I would be interested in hearing reports on how well the sound deadening aspect works.



Ken

 

[KOG]

I've used "Brown Bread" on some of the Caravans to excellent effect.



http://www.b-quiet.com/dynamat.html



This outfit is in Canada and has better prices that anyone in the U. S. I've found. Caravans from '93-'94 on also have an excellent sound deadening sheet behind the door panels if you can get one of those to part out.

 

[stakedd]

I have The Dina-mat and it works good. Is a bit expensive for what you get. on a side note don't replace speakers with a 6by9. use a good 6. 5 round. it is a bit more work because you need to make a support but the end resold is well worth the work. I can explain how to do the install if you want. it took me about 3 hrs to install 6. 5's in both doors.