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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Interior Noise Reduction

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I’m fairly new to CTD pickups and in the short time I’ve had mine have become totally impressed with the power, handling, driveability and pullability. I’m surprised, though, that Dodge didn’t do a better job of noise isolation. Maybe they began putting all their pennies in the HPCR ISB years ago at the expense of improving the Noise/Vibration/Harshness of earlier generation trucks. Don’t get me wrong; I do appreciate and enjoy the sound of my CTD, but have thought for some time it would be nice to take the hard edge off the Cummins “character”.



I’ve noticed in many threads the numerous approaches members have taken in reducing interior noise levels. I’ve borrowed some of those ideas and created a few of my own with reasonably good success and thought I’d share…. .



THE MODS:



1. Using “3M 90” spray adhesive, bonded “Barymat BM-1C” noise barrier composite sheet to the rear wall of the cab from window sill down to the floor. The sheeting is 1. 6 lb/sq ft noise barrier prebonded to ¼” open cell foam. Try www.blachford.com for info.



2. After removing all necessary interior components, I applied 3/8” thick open cell polyester urethane foam over the entire floor pan. Then I applied 3 longitudinal strips, 27” wide each, of “Barymat 5B-OD” noise barrier sheet overlapped at the two joints. I cut and trimmed the sheeting to conform to the floor contours and then used an electric heat gun to soften the material and allow it to conform to some of the more difficult contours. I understand that to reduce transmission of low frequency noise, a barrier with substantial mass is required. Lead was a common material in the past but has fallen into disuse because of the possible health effects. Blachford and other manufacturers offer safe, synthetic materials that provide similar performance. I also learned it’s important to “decouple” the barrier from the floor pan with something like an open cell foam. It allows the barrier to “float” and not vibrate in tandem with the floor pan.



3. To the back of the firewall on the drivers side, I applied the BM-1C composite sheet wherever possible.



4. Believing that a lot of the engine noise was coming at me from the firewall along the steering column where it penetrates the instrument panel, I installed alternating layers of BM-1C and 1 inch thick open cell foam behind the knee bolster panel. I carefully fitted the sheets for a good fit against the column making sure to leave room for the gear position indicator lever and cable.



5. Because of the difficulty in applying a continuous barrier to the upper half of the firewall, whether inside or out, I thought there’d be benefit in installing a horizontal closure panel below the instrument panel, to “seal in” any engine noise transmitting through the firewall. I used ¼” thick ABS plastic sheet and created the minimum openings for the foot pedal levers. I also bonded 1 inch thick open cell foam to the top side of the sheet and to as many of the flat surfaces within the instrument panel enclosure to help absorb and prevent reverberation and amplification of noise.



THE RESULTS:

---NOT BAD!!!---



1. I haven’t had much luck attaching my results data to this post. But I’d be glad to Email them to you. For both cold and warm engine, the sound level while loaded at 1750 rpm or mildly accelerating dropped about 4 dB. That’s a reduction of about 60% in sound pressure level and is quite noticeable to me and my gal. This result was of the most interest to me because the noise source here was engine primarily since the vehicle speed was zero or quite slow and therefore no road noise contributing.



2. At 100 kmh (62 mph), the noise level dropped about 2. 0 dB from 71. 8 to 69. 8. That may not seem like much at first glance, but you’ll notice the maximum possible reduction is just 5. 0 dB because of the road noise present at the same speed while coasting at no load (66. 8 dB). I think reducing 2. 0 dB out of a possible 5. 0 dB is decent and noticeable because of the major reduction in the engine noise component (60%). What you hear at 100 kmh is a combination of road and wind noise and a much reduced level of engine noise. Normal conversation levels are now possible and the stereo can be heard at lower volume settings.



3. Warm idle in my truck is now 57. 3 dB as compared to about 57 dB for the HPCR engine as per page 49 of issue 38. I’ve driven a 2003 and observe that my 2002 is still louder while accelerating and cruising, but that’s actually my preference. I’d be disappointed to spend k$50 on a diesel truck and have virtually all the diesel character engineered out of it!



MORE MODS?



I don’t think so. I think the sound level now is about the right balance between comfort and ruggedness. I might later consider some of the off the shelf engine shields but have reservations about increased engine operating temperatures. Sound insulators unfortunately are also good thermal insulators. I see potential problems with premature engine oil oxidation and possible reduced engine life. But then again, from what I’ve read, the ISB is quite tolerant of most of the modifications we inflict upon them!



Hope this information is of some benefit to you.

:)
 
Good info, tvictor, thanks.



I agree with you about the dangers of heat containment although I'm more concerned about failed electrical or electronic components than damage to the engine itself.
 
Bought the material at a local rubber product supplier named "Brothers Industrial Supply". Doubt they'd be much help to you since they're in Canada and quite far from your location. Just in case, their phone # is 204-633-1039. They actually ordered it for me out of Blachford's Canadian warehouse in Toronto. My price was very near $4. 00 Canadian per sq. ft. for both the plain 2 lb/sq. ft. barrier and the 1. 6 lb/sq. ft. composite.



I think Blachford's American headquarters is in Chicago and I'm sure they have a distribution network nation wide. Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for this great info... I just sent you my email address, it will be in your private message area of TDR. Please send the attachments if possible. Thanks again.
 
Can someone advise how I might post the attachment containing my sound level measurements? The file is Microsoft Excel which the system won't accept. I've converted it to a JPEG but the problem now is the file seems too large for the system to accept. I've tried to reduce the size of the JPEG to less than the 32K limit, but it becomes illegible when opened. I seem to have had more success with my noise reduction efforts than working with this computer system. :(



Any suggestions would be appreciated. :confused:
 
TVICTOR - what *I* do for posting jpegs, is to create an album of photos over in "reader's Rigs" one of the button selections at the top of this page, then upload photos into that - it will accept larger sized photos that you can then imbed pointers into in your posts to be viewed - sorry if I'm not clear enough in my description, but hopefully you get the idea...
 
Instead of trying to mute the noise I'd really like to see a company that deals in active noise reduction come up with a reasonably priced product for our trucks. Several companies do just that on the interior of variuos aircraft but it is not cheap. No doubt alot of the cost in aircraft installations is because anything you add to an aircraft has to meet very stringent standards which of course wouldn't be nearly so difficult to meet in our application.

Just a thought.
 
Thanks Gary - KJ6Q for the information on posting larger attachments. Here (I hope) are my sound level measurements:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/forumcodes.php?&photoid=3544



Sageair:

I agree that Active Noise Reduction could potentially be used to assist us in cancelling objectionable engine and/or road noise. A while ago, I did some searching on the web for suppliers but found that most of the systems are custom built for specific industries such as aviation or power generation, among others. The equipment, I suspect, is a lot less affordable than passive barrriers. I did find though that some of the higher end cars already have, or soon will have, active noise reduction systems on board. I think what they do is link the system with the audio system speakers to playback the cancelling spectrum in conjunction with the music. Maybe we'll see affordable aftermarket systems one day soon. :rolleyes:



The quietcoat appears to be an interesting passive asborber/barrier. It appears to be easier to install than matting but I wonder if it has the heavy mass of matting. From what I've read in noise control books, to reduce the level of the low frequencies our engines produce, you need a barrier with significant mass. The quietcoat web site talks about absorbing sound and converting it to heat, but I wonder it that applies more to mid and high frequencies. Maybe someone has applied the material and could provide some feedback. :confused:
 
Actually, you can take the TOP of those 2 pointers, and do a copy and then paste routine, and include the actual image in your post, instead of a pointer - if you prefer, like this:



#ad
 
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Do you have a sound meter now? Just curious what mods you've made and what sort of sound level reductions you've been able to achieve?



I too could have done a more detailed job of recording sound levels after each stage of modification. But as everyone knows there's a balancing act to be performed between family, work and toys!:rolleyes: The toys seems to have the least balance!



My ears tell me though, that of the improvements I've realized, about 40% result from installing barrier in the floor and rear wall, and 60% from installing barrier on the firewall and sealing the instrument panel cavity from below with a cover plate.
 
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