Intermittant Dead Pedal.
Codes 0122, 0216, 1693
Codes used to clear out but won't now.
Changed out the APPS Monday with a used known good one. Did nothing to help. The trouble is still there with me. Started to do the recal of the APPS voltage but a used APPS complete with pedal assembly was handed to me for $150. 00 so thought why not? At least I get a test with a 2nd APPS. So, I now have a "known good spare?"
Trucks starts good like normal. Runs good except when the DP happens. When it happens, let off throttle, put auto-transmission in neutral and stab pedal a couple of times. Problem fixed, go on for a while until it decides to go DP again.
I have noticed that IF the truck is driven aggressively, and if, the pedal is kept busy that the DP does not happen. DP only happens when the pedal is held at a steady state condition for several minutes.
Also, when the temps are lower than about 45-50 degrees, DP never occurs. I drove for 5 months this past winter without ever having DP occur. The hotter the weather, the worse it is. temps now 100*F, DP is a very frequent event.
This has been going on now for a couple of years and is bugging the hell out of me. I just cannot believe that the VP can be bad and continue to function "normally" most of the time for two years.
So, is this still an issue with the APPS not being calibrated exactly as per the voltage on the APPS white tag? Or, as a second thread currently running suggests, is it a bad ECM? I have a 2nd stock ECM that is going to be swapped in this weekend. I just never thought the ECM might be the culprit, but will try that just to see.
a 3rd thought? Is low power consistent with worn injectors? My truck (98. 5 24V) has 107k miles, used to be a tow rig before I bought it at 87k miles 3 years ago. The truck is stock with a Van Akin module on it. It's a 1-ton dually automatic w/4. 11 gears and almost gutless.
4th thought. If someone convinces me that the VP has to be changed out, is it worth it to buy the HD version for the extra $700 bux?? Does this do anything that F1 injectors won't? Truck is box stock and can't afford a new transmission. I don't pull very often, maybe twice a year and drive easy (2100-2200 rpm) and watch out for overloading the transmission by shifting out of OD right away if it starts to pull down. I want more mpg, will the F1's do that?
Lots of questions here, but I really need to get this thing fixed because the truck needs to tow a 11,000# trailer from San Diego to Tulsa, OK in September and then double back to pick up the 8,000# Avion TT and take it to Tulsa.
The way it is now with the DP and almost no guts at all, it would be a very frustrating couple of trips. When we drive at night in cool temps, it goes all night without DP even once.
Thanks in advance for all of your good help.
John Craig,
Mesa, AZ
Codes 0122, 0216, 1693
Codes used to clear out but won't now.
Changed out the APPS Monday with a used known good one. Did nothing to help. The trouble is still there with me. Started to do the recal of the APPS voltage but a used APPS complete with pedal assembly was handed to me for $150. 00 so thought why not? At least I get a test with a 2nd APPS. So, I now have a "known good spare?"
Trucks starts good like normal. Runs good except when the DP happens. When it happens, let off throttle, put auto-transmission in neutral and stab pedal a couple of times. Problem fixed, go on for a while until it decides to go DP again.
I have noticed that IF the truck is driven aggressively, and if, the pedal is kept busy that the DP does not happen. DP only happens when the pedal is held at a steady state condition for several minutes.
Also, when the temps are lower than about 45-50 degrees, DP never occurs. I drove for 5 months this past winter without ever having DP occur. The hotter the weather, the worse it is. temps now 100*F, DP is a very frequent event.
This has been going on now for a couple of years and is bugging the hell out of me. I just cannot believe that the VP can be bad and continue to function "normally" most of the time for two years.
So, is this still an issue with the APPS not being calibrated exactly as per the voltage on the APPS white tag? Or, as a second thread currently running suggests, is it a bad ECM? I have a 2nd stock ECM that is going to be swapped in this weekend. I just never thought the ECM might be the culprit, but will try that just to see.
a 3rd thought? Is low power consistent with worn injectors? My truck (98. 5 24V) has 107k miles, used to be a tow rig before I bought it at 87k miles 3 years ago. The truck is stock with a Van Akin module on it. It's a 1-ton dually automatic w/4. 11 gears and almost gutless.
4th thought. If someone convinces me that the VP has to be changed out, is it worth it to buy the HD version for the extra $700 bux?? Does this do anything that F1 injectors won't? Truck is box stock and can't afford a new transmission. I don't pull very often, maybe twice a year and drive easy (2100-2200 rpm) and watch out for overloading the transmission by shifting out of OD right away if it starts to pull down. I want more mpg, will the F1's do that?
Lots of questions here, but I really need to get this thing fixed because the truck needs to tow a 11,000# trailer from San Diego to Tulsa, OK in September and then double back to pick up the 8,000# Avion TT and take it to Tulsa.
The way it is now with the DP and almost no guts at all, it would be a very frustrating couple of trips. When we drive at night in cool temps, it goes all night without DP even once.
Thanks in advance for all of your good help.
John Craig,
Mesa, AZ