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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) intermittent starter trouble

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Now it's my turn to have the "starter contact trouble". The truck('97) ckicks 3-5 times before starting. I've read about the contacts needing replacement, and in another forum on this site, printed the instructions on contact replacement. My question is "How difficult is it to remove the starter in the first place?" I've replaced starters in gas cars before, but not in a diesel truck. Are there any hidden nuts & bolts? Are there any tricks? Is this a PITA job, or am I just worrying too much over a fairly simple job? Thanks in advance, John
 
starter

If you have done a gas you can do the diesel. You need 10mm 12 point socket and 10mm 12point box end wrench to get it off. you will also need either 15mm & 17mm wrench for the contacts on the starter. It is not a hard job. I took mine off from the under side of the truck. John mine is also a 97. There is one bolt on top and two bolts on the bottom. I done mine over a year ago so i think this is the correct size wrench you need. just look under and you will see it not that hard.
 
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There is some gorilla who works at Cummins. His job is to tighten the starter bolts. The only hard part of the job is to loosen the three starter bolts the first time.
 
John: I got an extra long 10mm box wrench for mine, was all cake. The original 10mm I had was about 5" long. The new one i got from craftsman is 11" long. Offset also, makes gettin on those bolts all the easier. Dont wait on the starter fix, you could burn your solenoid by cranking too long, they cost as much as a new starter.



good luck



-j
 
Getting the starter off and apart is pretty simple and if you have a good auto-electric store where you are, you can probably get a replacement set of contacts and solenoid armature for about $15. 00.



At least that is what it would be at our local store.



They are the same as original equipment but I can't see $40. 00 or so for the "heavy duty" ones available elsewhere.
 
I KNEW I would get quick & accurate response, that's why I love the TDR web site. Even telling me what tools to use to make the job easier, that's great!! Thanks to all who replied. I'll be tackling this project this Firday (7-30-04) due to my crazy work schedule and will let you know how things work out.
 
John,



You've got a few good tips. The hardest part is loosening the bolts. I used all of the extensions I own along with a breaker bar. I'm sure a pipe that fits over the wrench & ratchet will work too. Definately think about changing the fuel lines at the same time. You'll need a couple of feet of 5/16" & 3/8" hose, clamps, & a filter.
 
John,

Ditto on all the above info on the starter job.

But if you are going to do the fuel lines, I highly suggest that you use ONLY the marine grade fuel line hose. The wall thickness is about 3X that of regular fuel hose. Also use the all SS hose clamps, special ones that do not have the cut all the way through the band. Little more $$ for the clamps but well worth the peace of mind about doing it again. It really is a PITA job!!

crabman:)

PS - If you are going to do the fuel lines, have a first aid kit handy. :mad:
 
Well, I"ve done it! It took me about 2 hrs. to do it taking my ol' sweet time. I have to admit, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. One of the contacts was worn about 1/2 way through and pitted, the other wasn't so bad. I got the contact set at Blue Chip Diesel in N. H. Their set didn't include a plunger- should I have changed it? The truck is starting fine now. The tool info was most helpful. While I had the battery cables disconnected, I cleaned all 4 of them. The fuel lines looked fine so I didn't touch them-Yet. You know, if it's not broke, don't fix it. So I didn't touch them for now. Thanks again from all who wrote, John
 
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