Internationa to auto trans

[Simplysmn]

You can also get school buses or pretty much any other thing you are looking for vehicle wise from that site also thing's don't go for real cheap but there are deal's to be had .

 

[BIGNASTY]

BIL got it going runs real nice shifting is actually pretty nice for such a beast YOU KNOW WHEN IT SHIFTS BUT THATS TO BE EXPECTED. If it ever stops snowing Im going to load the gang in and go for a ride up the road to see how it act's under load.

 

[BIGNASTY]

Hooked up to the stock trailer and loaded the 7 mules and Horse in and went for a ride NORTH mostly up hill and some rolling but WHAT A DEAL no gear grinding :-laf NOT THAT I EVER!!!!! MISSED A GEAR The manual shift auto was the way to go UP HILL in full auto it did what I had suspected dropped to many RPM's and started up and down up and down shifting. I think it worked better coming down hill with an automatic than it did with a standard trans manuel down shifted and let it go it seemed to hold back better with the auto.



BIG

 

[BIGNASTY]

Took a REAL drive today to Helena MT to pickup a metal building for our BIL it was an overload for the truck, but wasn't A REAL BAD overload. :-laf Mike and Wayne and all that helped on this. I dont know what to say except that im stoked with the way it works but have a couple of questions on operation

1 When empty I just put in auto and stepped on the go pedal no problem. But when it shifted going up hill or with a little power added going up a hill. I found that if I let off the throttle just before it was going to shift it was ALLOT SMOOTHER, is this ok or should I just let it shift on its own?

2 When loaded I didn't like to have it in full auto in the mountains to much up and down shifting, It wasn't bad on the flats shifting on its own with a push of the up shift button or with the above let off the throttle just as it shifted. But I liked it in manual auto (I TOLD IT WHEN TO SHIFT) I could run a little more RPMs on the hill and make the shift the reason for the tad more RPM was that on a pull it dropped to many RPMs. I found that if I ran the trans the same but just as I wanted to shift if I (again) let off the throttle at the same time pushed the up shift button it didn't drop as Many RPMs and I didn't have to run them up any at all (it didn't loose as many RPMs)

Guess what im asking is it ok or not to let off the throttle as the shift is being made in FULL AUTO and in MANUEL AUTO or should I just let it shift on its own or back out of the throttle so it WONT try to shift UP to the next gear and have RPMs to low.


3 I dont like going down hill with this it seems like your at the mercy of your BRAKES and cant use the motor to help you out at all. CAN AN EXHAUST BRAKE be added to this without messing with the trans or engine just a toggle that op's the exhaust brake? I hoped it mite be different but with the extra weight (more than just the animals) it wanted to run up to high on the RPM"S

I want to thank all that worked on this with the ideas, I was kind of down when it came to me that I could not drive a stick shift any longer and didn't know what I would do with an AUTOMATIC its not trucking to me. But this has been a pleasant surprise I REALLY LIKED driving trucks its NOT WHAT I DID but rather WHAT I'AM most cant understand that concept but to those that can you know what I mean and I feel whole again.

THANKS
BIG

 

[Wayne M.]

I'm glad it worked out well, BIG. This is the first swap over I ever heard of and sounds like it went well. I really don't know about shift profiles and the tuning of such. I'd try to make a friend at an allison dealer. Maybe there's some tweaking that can be done via software. I know the bigger trannys have retarders on them- you can tell its a big unit hanging off the back. Our wreckers have em. I don't know that the option is for that unit. As far as using an actual exhaust brake, I wouldnt THINK there'd be a problem since the converter would be locked anyway.
I think I understand what youre asking about the shifting. I also try to fool or force the next shift by lifting the pedal. If I feel it's running out of steam, yhea, ill lift to grab the next gear, but you have to ease back into it or else it'll downshift again. You might be able to tune that. I don't know if there's adaptive strategy at play, as in new cars.
I would definitely avoid any hurkey jerkey especially unlocked because you might be hurting sprags in the converter.

What fluid did they put in? Have you been watching temps?

 

[BIGNASTY]

Mobil Delvac Synthetic ATF some TES 295 approved stuff he got, have 2 gal left for top off or to remember whats in it.



The temp just driving down the hwy with a load or not didn't seem to matter much about 185* in the mountains with foot stuck in it 200* I tried to keep it from up and down shifting all the time if I had to I just took my foot out of it and went to the top of the hill in a lower gear instead of trying to get another gear up. Don't know what it would do in city traffic the rail yard where we picked up our load was on the outskirts of town and no stop and go. BIL said that he didn't like where the temp gauge was installed (dont ask me where) he said to run it and in a couple of thousand miles he would change the oil and filter and move the temp sender at that time. He's a pretty sharp guy with mod's on any kind of equipment after he got out of the Military he worked as a mechanic in a rock quarry that use to be around here working on all kinds of earth moving things.

 

[Wayne M.]

I have no doubts about BIL & co. TES295 is the spec. That stuff was exclusive to castrol known as transynd. That's top shelf stuff. There should be a seperate external spin on filter HD223. I know the temps I see and the gauges have a high scale. If you have a coolant heat exchanger it won't be less than coolant temp. Sounds like its accurate. Sounds like a successful job. If you don't have the spin on filter, I can get you the part nos we use.