2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Inverted "T" conversion results

[BDanner]

First a BIG "Thanks" to TDR Members "muchsnow" & "TFabian" for their timely contributions on the " My steering sucks" thread. The research and parts #'s posted made it easy to acquire the correct conversion parts. TFabian for the email with needed tools, including hints and tips on the dreaded ball joint replacement.



I think a combination of these items not just a single one is the cure. The Inverted "T" Conversion is a first fix if you have the "Y". Followed with the DSS and 03 track bar.



The truck really steers as new or better!! Oo.



I will install the steering damper when I find a cool clamp. Drives great without one. Ideas And help on this next step needed.



Bruce in Virginia



A recap of my vehicles symptoms.

1. Excessive front tire wear on insides

2. Wandering steering- 1/2 lane changes!

3. Pulled to the right



My own symptoms

1. Scary towing

2. White knuckle fatigue

3. Disbelief, just installed DTT transmission,

4" SS exhast,Exhaust brake

4. More $$$$ out of pocket



Local front end shop diagnoses.

1. Worn lower ball joints

2. Worn L & R tie rod ends

3. Worn steering gear box



The cure.

1. TDR links for "Best" non-OEM items

2. One patient & understanding wife that

trusts TDR logic.

3. While torn down - replace it!

4. A Bigger Hammer



Replacement parts list:



03 Track Bar Bracket & 03 Track Bar $400

Dodge Steering Stabilizer$189

http://www.sourceautomotive. biz/







PSC Steering gear box $290

http://www.offroadsteering.com/



2- 5015282-AA Hub Brake 50005006 2@$345=$690

1- 5086532-AA PS Hose 19058007 $73. 75

1-52006724-AC PS Hose 190058007 $15. 00

Leesburg Chrysler/ Dodge



2- Brembo replacement rotors 2@$66=$132

1- Ebc 6000 series truck pads $54

http://www.tirerack.com



4- ED3344 Edelbrock Performer IAS Shocks $277

ESHOCKS. COMESHOCKS. COM





2- 5-806 Spicer front u-joints 2@$55=$110

2- 44-2496 adjustable upper ball joints 2@$132=$266

2- Moog lower ball joints 2@$93=$186

1- DR3520 rear timbren set $196

Alignment including caster adjustment $65

Chantilly Frame and Spring



Inverted "T" Conversion for 01 3500 4x4

1-TRW DS1459 Front Draglink $29. 28

1-TRW ES3496 Front Tie Rod End $29. 28

1-TRW DS1456 Front Draglink $94. 88

1- TRW ES3498S Front End Sleeve $25. 28

1- TRW ES2012S Front Tie Rod End $19. 33

1- TRW ES3527 Front Tie Rod End $22. 48

Advanced Auto Parts



Advil, Bandages

CVS Drugs #@$%!

__________________________________________________________



2001 3500 4x4 AT White/ Gray leather & all factory options except tow mirrors.

65xxx mi. DTT Transmission, Banks exhaust brake & 4" SS exhaust, Airaid intake, DSS & 03 Track Bar, PSC gear box, Edelbrock shocks, Pop-Up gooseneck ball hitch.

 

[muchsnow]

The truck really steers as new or better!! #ad


Nice to hear it, I also have more invested than the inverted T steering, but the mod produced a significant enough improvement in my truck and a co-workers truck (Tom Tomlin, HSL-60, how ya doing) that it needed to be dwelt on a bit here.

I havn't been looking at the board much lately due to the new job and moving to Utah. Ill get back into it though. My latest problem is not being able to get the truck in gear @ an idle (NV5600) sometimes (like when the light turns green) which is really a nusiance.

I just don't look forward to what I think it is... ... ... . ,,.

Have a good one,

L. J. M.

 

[Nate]

I thought all the 2nd gens were inverted T? I know mine is.

 

[Fishin Guide]

I thought all the 2nd gens were inverted T? I know mine is.

Nope!!



I believe it's only '98 and '99s. I am sure someone can confirm.



Dave

 

[muchsnow]

I agree, that's a nope. You can derive the application years from the p/n / application years on the better auto parts websites. (advance, napa, etc. )...

 

[muchsnow]

The truck really steers as new or better!! #ad


Nice to hear it, I also have more invested than the inverted T steering, but the mod produced a significant enough improvement in my truck and a co-workers truck (Tom Tomlin, HSL-60, how ya doing) that it needed to be dwelt on a bit here.

I havn't been looking at the board much lately due to the new job and moving to Utah. Ill get back into it though. My latest problem is not being able to get the truck in gear @ an idle (NV5600) sometimes (like when the light turns green) which is really a nusiance.

I just don't look forward to what I think it is... ... ... . ,,.

Have a good one,

L. J. M.

NV 5600 Transmission bind.

I checked the fluid which was spotless, then added the limited slip additive. It's been getting better ever since.

It sure felt like a pilot bearing problem originally, seems to be good now... ..... thanks alot to info found on and through this site, folks.

 

[BILLVO]

Inverted T This is the first time Ive heard of this what does it consist of?Any pictures of inverted T and not available from anyone?What does it cure?Why is it better?

 

[muchsnow]

Inverted T centerlink setup (steering, to wander or not to wonder)

Inverted T This is the first time Ive heard of this what does it consist of?Any pictures of inverted T and not available from anyone?What does it cure?Why is it better?

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114584&page=3&pp=10


The inverted T is what is pictured, the relay from the pitman goes to the centerlink that is a solid link from the left to right knuckles.

The inverted Y setup (oem on most... ), the relay goes to the pass knuckle. The driver side knuckle link comes off the relay inward/above the rod end @ the pass knuckle. Looks like a upside down Y. It shoves your front rubber/allignment around a bit on suspension movement.

I've had/worked Jeeps/GM's/Fords/older Dodges for years and the solid/straight centerlink on a straight front axle can't be beat. I have absolutely no idea why star felt they had to change it... ... ...

Does that help you?

 

[Heavy Metal]

After reading the original thread on this, I too decided to try this. I bought all of the parts nessecary to retrofit to my 2001. What I found was that the truck didn't try to pull the wheel out of my hand when the road leans to one side (usually the right). I didn't wander either. However, once on the highway, at around 70 mph, I finally experienced the death wobble that I have heard so much about. When I got home from work I immediatley reinstalled the stock stuff. Must have been a coincidence 'cause it still wobbled. Did some checking and found the trackbar had some play (DT trackbars, contrary to what some say, do wear, folks. The good thing is that parts to rebuild it are only $45. ) Rebuilt the trackbar and all is well again, but decided to sell the truck (ebay item 190019191748) so I never reinstalled the linkage. I will give the linkage to anyone who may be interested. It was only on the truck to work and back and, for all intents and purposes, is brand new. All pieces-ends, sleeves and all are still assembled as I simply dropped it all out in one piece and stuck the old stuff back in. The pitman arm end (obviously) is the 2001 taper. Maybe I should post this in the "pay it forward" section, but I would have had to either reference the original thread on this or explain everything that was hashed out in that thread.



Bryan

 

[GKarpen]

Use the old clamps from the adjuster off of the drag link. Drill it out with a 1/2" drill, get a 1/2" bolt grade 8, I think 4" long, some flat washers and a nylon lock nut and put the clamp around the passenger side tie rod. Works great and U can even mount dual dampers with this method and not hit your Mag-Hytec front Differential cover.

 

[Heavy Metal]

Alright. Just gave 'em away. Glad a TDR member could get some use out of them. I was going to give them to my local front end shop.

 

[Heavy Metal]

Now if only someone could come up with a similar setup for a 2006.

 

[BILLVO]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114584&page=3&pp=10





The inverted T is what is pictured, the relay from the pitman goes to the centerlink that is a solid link from the left to right knuckles.



The inverted Y setup (oem on most... ), the relay goes to the pass knuckle. The driver side knuckle link comes off the relay inward/above the rod end @ the pass knuckle. Looks like a upside down Y. It shoves your front rubber/allignment around a bit on suspension movement.



I've had/worked Jeeps/GM's/Fords/older Dodges for years and the solid/straight centerlink on a straight front axle can't be beat. I have absolutely no idea why star felt they had to change it... ... ...



Does that help you?

I looked at my 02 and it looks just like what you have in picture but images are fuzzy to see detail on passenger side. Could my late build 02 be the T?someone thought it was only 98-99.

 

[RyanB]

On my conversion truck (1989 GMC/Cummins/Dodge D60 front axle) I actually did the T-conversion also. main reason for it was to get rid of any possible bump steer while pulling and to just make a stronger setup up front! I needed all new steering components anyway for my axle so it was pretty much the only way to go for me. What I was also able to do with this setup was get a better angle from the Pitman Arm down to the axle that matched my panhard bar perfectly.



Here is a picture of my setup. . sorry if its a little blurry.



Ryan

 

[muchsnow]

Cool

On my conversion truck (1989 GMC/Cummins/Dodge D60 front axle) I actually did the T-conversion also. main reason for it was to get rid of any possible bump steer while pulling and to just make a stronger setup up front! I needed all new steering components anyway for my axle so it was pretty much the only way to go for me. What I was also able to do with this setup was get a better angle from the Pitman Arm down to the axle that matched my panhard bar perfectly.

Here is a picture of my setup. . sorry if its a little blurry.

Ryan

I wish GM marketed a Cummins setup... ...