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Irregular Tire wear on both axles after new parts and recent alignment.

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brake fluid for 2004 3500 dually

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Darkbloodmon

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Just completed an 1100mi trip from Charlotte NC to Fort Worth TX.

As the title says I'm having irregular wear. Alignment following the work and components installed was done earlier this year. Not much drive time on the alignment. Previous tire set was shot with irregular wear, I'll have to get back home first to tell you if its a similar wear pattern as described below.

Tires:

A used set of Toyo Open Country AT IIs. The two front tires are practically new with the hairs and casting mold edges left on them, rear two are more worn in at 4/32nds. Tires were inflated to 70 psi before the trip. 3-400lbs of payload in the bed with my tool box and two spare wheels. Tires were previously balanced, but I did not re-balance them before putting them on my truck.

Front end:
Spyntec locking hubs, EMF ball joints, new spicer U-joints, Synergy T link. Front end was greased before trip. Vehicle tracks straight. Shocks are a 1A Auto brand (cheap I know but it was better than the shocks that came on the truck when I drove it home). Of the front hubs the driver side was warmer, Text book installation on the locking hubs no play during installation. On the front axle the tires are cupping on the inner and outer edges. Center tread is more elevated, though I think its more from the cupping than over inflation for vehicle weight.

Rear end:
Rear hubs have been fully rebuilt and gone through using a Torque king 4x4 rebuild kit. Races, bearings and seals both sides. Text book installation no play or issues at time of installation. Both rear hubs had the same temperature (hand touch). Shocks are 1A auto. Weld on Reaper Tractions bars fabed to length for a CCSB Dodge 2500. Weld job was done by MB Diesel, not the best work to say the least, left side traction bar angled farther forward than the right side. Both rear tires are cupping on the inside edge.

Driving and my .02:
There is an irregular wheel vibration from both the front and rear more significant at 75mph+.

I'm hoping its something small and im over thinking it. I'm of the mind to drop my tire pressures to 60psi, the roads were pretty rough and my tires as hard as they were from pressure didn't help and neither did the cheap shocks. I'll get a wheel balance while I'm down here. Browsing online abit about rear solid axle tire wear I came across a few treads in forums mentioning 4x4 alignments. I'm considering getting one done before my truck leaves TX back to NC.

I haven't checked the hub play on the four corners yet, I'll do that before my trip back. I just don't suspect the hubs or bearings to be out of spec from the attention to detail I paid the assembly and rebuild process. But everything is on the table to question and consider at this point.

Thoughts suggestions advice?
 
On the front axle the tires are cupping on the inner and outer edges. Center tread is more elevated, though I think its more from the cupping than over inflation for vehicle weight.

My 2003 2WD did this when I got it. Tire shop said shocks - as worn ones let the tires bounce down the road. Yes OEM shocks with 100K on them and one had a hole knocked in it from a 5th wheel hitch install bolt needing to be cut shorter. After new shocks the tire wore flat and I never had the truck aligned.
 
Maybe lower the pressure for being unloaded? I run 255s and unloaded: 55 PSI rear, 65 PSI front. Much better for comfort, if you could call riding in a Dodge 2500 comfortable.

I'll give that a shot and drop it to 60 on my trip back. I totally forgot to mention the tire size for reference. 285/70/17 max inflation on them is 80psi iirc.
 
1617 Rear set and 1118 : 1519 on the front set.
Not saying you did not know, I actually forgot what they meant.

From Tire Rack

Tires Manufactured Since 2000

Since 2000, the week and year the tire was produced has been provided by the last four digits of the Tire Identification Number with the 2 digits being used to identify the week immediately preceding the 2 digits used to identify the year.
 
I'll give that a shot and drop it to 60 on my trip back. I totally forgot to mention the tire size for reference. 285/70/17 max inflation on them is 80psi iirc.

Too much air for the load, especially if you’re on stock rims or similar width. This will magnify any issues causing irregular wear, which my first guess would be shocks.

400lbs of payload would likely put you around 5000/3500 lbs. That only needs 50/35. I’d probably run 55/40 for highway driving unless you’re not getting even wear.
 
Too much air for the load, especially if you’re on stock rims or similar width. This will magnify any issues causing irregular wear, which my first guess would be shocks.

400lbs of payload would likely put you around 5000/3500 lbs. That only needs 50/35. I’d probably run 55/40 for highway driving unless you’re not getting even wear.

Is 55/40 enough with a curb weight of around 8800 with equipment and fuel? I have a 52 gallon tank and a heavy tool box.
 
Do you know axle weights?

It should be more than enough. I normally run 55/35 empty, but a different tire size. I’m ~9,000 empty and full of fuel.

https://www.toyotires.com/media/3729/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf

Not off the top of my head no, I'd have to look at my placard. Thank you for the table link. Looking ay it now I can definitely go lower for my size and weight. I'll drop the pressures on my trip back and see if it changes anything. Just dropped it off with STG.

I remember on my way down passing through Alabama the roads were really rough and bumpy, I'll keep it in mind for comparison on my way back.

What shocks would you guys recommend for stock ride height? Besides to tool box and fuel tank I have a decent sized grille guard that's maybe 150 - 200lbs
 
What shocks would you guys recommend for stock ride height? Besides to tool box and fuel tank I have a decent sized grille guard that's maybe 150 - 200lbs

Thats easy... Bilstein 4200 series.

Or the 5100 series for up to 2" lifts ... if you cant stand the though of putting yellow and blues shocks on your truck. LOL

Genos Garage should have you covered either way.
 
That's easy... Bilstein 4200 series.

Or the 5100 series for up to 2" lifts ... if you cant stand the though of putting yellow and blues shocks on your truck. LOL

Genos Garage should have you covered either way.

I'll have to check with TSA and see if I can bring down a set in carry on luggage when I pick up the truck. If not I'll just wait till I get back.

Thank you all for the feedback it calmed my paranoia a bit about the work I've done.
 
X2 on the Bilstiens. I ran the 5100’s and was very happy with them.

Placard weight isn’t what you want you need actual weight. Many weight stations are active when closed. I stop often.
 
I've driving around 55/40 (correction from the trans thread not 55/50) for a bit in the Fort Worth area and it feels pretty good. There are alot of industrial districts where I'm at with concrete roads that have gotten really rough; alot of them are filled and patched in poorly with asphalt. I noticed when I dropped the pressures while looking over the tires that my right rear had a large long bump in the middle of the tread. Could be belt separation or a good bruise, either way I'm happy I brought two spares down with me for the trip if it decides to go.

I'll keep note of the road feel and tire wear on my 1100 mile trip back.

TSA said no to compressed gas cylinders and I don't have the mind to pay parts store mark up, so I'll wait till I return for new shocks.
 
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