Here I am

Is 2900 miles tooooo early to BOMB???????????????

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BOOST MODULES AND ELBOWS

Jet Hot Anyone?

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Just had the transmission done and was surprized how many things were wrong. That will be another post. Did a Dunrite convertor, reworked valve body, Magtech pan, Mobil Fluid fluid and bunch of other stuff, Rancho Transmission in Temecula,Ca did it in three days. BY the way, I was very impressed.

Anyways, the EZ box is staring at me from my kitchen table and Stage 1 injectors are a call away and the SPA gauges go in next week. I have the Magtech diff cover and want to do the Scotty System.

Am I looking for trouble?

Is the light foot or lead foot the determining factor for problem down the road if I go with the Box and the stage 1 injectors?

Don't these motor come in a 400hp range and 800lbs of torque from the Cummins factory for other applications?

What do I need to be careful of?

I am only towing a flatbed trailer and a car on it. 4600lbs.

BTW, truck is a month old today.

Thanks for help.

I need my fix.

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2001. 5 2500 QuadCab SLT, Auto, 3. 54 Anti-Spin Axle, 4X2, SWB, White/Tan. Debadged, Custom CUMMINS Logo Sticker, gauges on there way with Pillar Mount, Front Spoiler, Sport Tail Lenses, Rancho Transmission upgrade, TC, VB, and the H3ll with the warranty, BOMBing shall commence.
www.ProwlerOnline.com
View my Cummins Sticker

[This message has been edited by Gary C (edited 02-11-2001). ]
 
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I drove mine home from the dealership, parked the truck and then spent 10 hours the next day adding everything to my truck. The owners manual says that the truck doesn't need to be broken in so I figured that it would be best to let it start off with all of the modifications.

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2001 ETH SWB Black Sport, Blue Box, HX-40, 4" Exhaust, DD III's, RE-0880, ATS Manifold, Muth Signal Mirrors (way cool!) Too MUCH Stereo, Clifford Avant-Guard 4 w/ Remote Start, 2" leveling kit, Grizzly Nerf Bars, Pathfinder 315's, Ram Grill Guard, BLACK magic hellas, Dual firesticks, and one loud, annoying PA
 
Never too early to BOMB, as long as you realize that once you do, you will probably be your own warranty station! Establish a base line and work up form there.

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<font color=blue>"WHITE OBSESSION" 99 Quad Cab, White, SLT, 4x4, 5-sp, 3:54's, Raven cap (cab high), Rhino liner, Stainless Nerf Bars, Stainless Rocker Panels, Tow package, Valentine One, Uniden PC78LTW CB, Hadley Bully Air Horns, HOT Power Edge, Bully Dog Stage III injectors, Psychotty Air Induction, Braided SS Fuel Lines, 4" Jardine Exhaust (Love the deep throaty sound), 285/75R16 Cooper A/T's. </font>

<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1086000&a=9265455" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>New Pictures of my "White Obsession" and Dyno Run</A></font>
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1086000&a=9815423" TARGET=_blank><font color=green>BD Dyno Days 10/28/00</A></font>

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NRA Life Member! (Need to protect our rights and FREEDOM!!)<font size=-2>



[This message has been edited by BIG BOB (edited 02-11-2001). ]
 
My Y2K was bombed before it left the dealer upon delivery to me. Yes, they installed the wheel covers, filled the tank with fuel. Why they even detailed it.

Butch

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2000 QC 4X4 24V 3500 4:10 All Options Auto Aux fuel/tool box combo Bright Box Geno's Garage Fender Trim Kit Garmin GPS III+ Kenwood 2 Meter Y2K+1 Tow Mirrors 1999 Excel Fifth Wheel, 1999 Concord LXI. Wife says I need to add "One Dodge Diesel Dog" N9JPZ KB9RZQ 2001 PT Cruiser
 
I think you can start bombing right off the lot with no problems,but if it was me I'd put on at least 10-15k to make sure your new engine has no problems that may not be covered under warranty because of your mods. Might just save you a bunch of money.
 
I believe it is important to put no fewer than 8,512 miles on the truck before you BOMB. But then again, I'm FOS, so why listen to me?
 
Originally posted by illflem:
I think you can start bombing right off the lot with no problems,but if it was me I'd put on at least 10-15k to make sure your new engine has no problems that may not be covered under warranty because of your mods. Might just save you a bunch of money.

Believe it!!!!! It cost me an engine a 10k miles.
Now on my engine I installed the DD1's after 50 mi to make sure there were no oil or coolant leakes then the next day hooked up the 5th and went on a 5k mi break in trip wich included a stop at DTT for all there goodies.

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2K, 2500, Laramie, Quad, 4x4, 3:54LSD, A/T, reese 15k 5th slider, EASLEY BULL BAR, WESTIN NERFS, TA's, 9000's, DD2's, Bully Dog Boost & elbow, ISSPRO pyro & boost, Turbo Lifesaver, JARDINE 4", DTT VB,TC,TC SAVER and AUX COOLER, PAC BRAKE, MAG HYTECH TP& DC, onboard.
pullee #1 26' Arctic Fox 5th
#2 22' car hauler w/ 76 Pinto 392cid or 68 Cyclone GT Cobra Jet FB
NRA-LIFE, VFW-LIFE, SOC-LIFE, SASS
 
Why, I drove it right to Auto Wurks Diesel the first day and pulled out the stock air filter and put in the K&N. By the time the truck had 3000 miles on it, it was as bad as the technology let it be in 1997. BOMBs away!

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Chris Timochko
AUTO WURKS DIESEL R&D TEAM
1997 5sp 4X4, Rhino Linings, Espar Heater, A. W. D. HX40 turbo, ATS 3pc Manifold, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, A. W. D. Custom Tuned Injection Pump, A. W. D. Intercooler, A. W. D. 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, A. W. D. Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, A. W. D. 6" Chrome Exhaust System, BD No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s.
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Project U96 - 1996 3500 2WD racer. A. W. D. Marine Ultra Low Compression, A. W. D. Teflon-coated Pistons, A. W. D. High Lift Camshaft, Ported and Honed Cylinder Head, Intake and Exhaust manifold; A. W. D. HX40 Turbocharger, ATS 3pc Exhaust Manifold, A. W. D. Water Injection, A. W. D. Custom Fabricated Fuel System, Race Spec A. W. D. /BD P7100 Injection Pump, A. W. D. Custom High Flow Fuel Injection Nozzles, BD Auto transmission and Custom TC, Weld Draglites, Goodyear Eagle Drag Slicks, 5" Single Stack Through The Bed, Mag-Hytec on Rear and Transmission.
 
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