Here I am

is anti-seize really that expensive????

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Dash Mount Gauges

Rokk Tech Silent Might Installed!

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Well, I have my truck in right now getting both front u-joints getting replaced under the powertrain warranty because one is squeaking and the other is actually locked up tight.



well, they just called and tell me that they have tried for hours and they cannot get the hub off the locked joint side at all. I went down to look at it and they have beat it into submission and it won't budge.



then they proceed to tell me that the hubs aren't covered because I am past 36,000 and I will have to pay for them. I say NO WAY in H$$L. 450+ per bearing. I know I saw them on here and I have to search but they were less than 200. 00. I told them to put it back together because I am more than capable of doing it, but they can't because they screwed up the threads in the bearing already.



Now, I will say this, the dealer is always good to me and they sponsor my race car. the mechanic is a friend and I am confident in him for sure. the problem that I have is that they agree it should be a no-brainer, but supposedly they can't just replace them under warranty without chrysler approval. That is ridiculous. I called the 1-800 number and asked the chrysler service person if they took there car to be fixed and the place fixed it but had to break something else to get to it and they weren't responsible, what would you say. She said I would make them pay for it. I said now you see my point, she said it still needs to be reviewed before a decision can be made.



the dealer already ordered them and said that would figure it out somehow.



so my whole point is that . 20 worth of D$mn anti-sieze would have prevented this whole dang scenario.



just had to vent.

__________________

04 White 3500 4X4 offroad 305/555 48re 4. 10
 
I never understand why mechanics think a hammer is the answer to everything... this is the reason I CRINGE at even the thought of taking the truck to a dealer... whatever they "fix", they cause issues with three other things... half the time they don't even put all the parts/pieces back...



Tell them to get a large puller and add a little heat to the knuckle (on the bottom) with a PROPANE torch, not an oxy/acetylene, you don't need that much!)... hook the puller to the hub face and "push" on the stub shaft. Just keep adding tension to it as it heats up and it will literally pop right off... I did both of mine this way... they were siezed on too.



There was a hub on ebay for $40 the other day... from a 3rd gen...



It isn't that hard to get them off... I even live in the salty northeast...



steved
 
CHolman said:
All you need is a hammer and a condom, if you can't fix it F*(% it... :-laf



sounds like the railroad. . smoke wrench, pipe wrench & hammer can fix almost everything. . [then for the finer jobs, the arc welder and duct tape and/or bailing wire come into play]
 
I agree with you on the antiseize, but it doesn't matter in this case. The u-joints are covered and the dealer has to remove the hub/bearing to gain access, That makes the hub and bearing covered as well. have them call their district manager. Do not pay for the hubs, been there... done that.



Dave
 
It's easy to pop the hubs off. We get lots of them up here all rusted up with salt etc.

Leave the hub bolts in place but loosen them a few turns. Use a socket and an appropriate length extension up against something solid and let the power of the power steering do the work for you.
 
DBraunig said:
I agree with you on the antiseize, but it doesn't matter in this case. The u-joints are covered and the dealer has to remove the hub/bearing to gain access, That makes the hub and bearing covered as well. have them call their district manager. Do not pay for the hubs, been there... done that.



Dave



Good luck with that. My rear brake caliper froze up. In order to fix the caliper, they had to remove the brake pads and the rotor that were ruined by the failure of a covered part. DCX refused to cover the pads or rotor, then charged me $600 for the parts. Nothing like getting screwed by the Germans. :mad:
 
BStoecker said:
Good luck with that. My rear brake caliper froze up. In order to fix the caliper, they had to remove the brake pads and the rotor that were ruined by the failure of a covered part. DCX refused to cover the pads or rotor, then charged me $600 for the parts. Nothing like getting screwed by the Germans. :mad:



I would have fought that. The whole reason they were bad was because of the defective part!
 
well, they had specific instructions from me when I left. get the parts approved or put it back together the way it was when they got it. I am more than capable of doing the work. Just wasn't worth my time for 100. 00 deductible on the u-joints in the beginning but I am now thinking that was a mistake. They then told me they couldn't because the messed the hub bearing up. I will know something later today.



trying to stay civil with them as they sponsor my race car and it helps out quite a bit.

Plus I do get along with a couple of the techs there.
 
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