Is it necessary to bleed FP line for Guage

[BWagner]

I am installing auto meter electric FP guage, do you need to bleed air out of the grease line hose. Also should I mount sender to fire wall to limit vibrations or is a bolt on the dipstick retainer ok.



THANKS, Bwagner

Oo.

 

[fox]

If you don't bleed at least most of the air it will cause hard starts.

Don't ask how I know!!!

 

[illflem]

I've never bled one and have never had a problem. If you go back a week later you will find that it has bled itself. You may have a hard start the first time after the install but that's due to opening up the system, not air in the gauge tubing.

 

[Oil Burner]

Never bled any air in my line and have had no problems. I would think a little air is o. k. since it is a compressible gas and would act like a pressure snubber. Also, consider mounting the sender to a point attached to the engine like you said. That way the sender and grease hose will vibrate together.

just my . 02

-Jason

 

[TowPro]

I have a gauge with a 3' long hose for testing. Last lift pump I did on my 98 was the morning before leaving to go camping. I ran up to Cummins and got the new pump, Installed it, went through the "prime" drill but the pump would not prime. It would pick up fuel, but after the pump would cycle off it would not prime again.



So I go back to Cummins a 2nd time for another pump, which of course would not prime either. I ended up getting mad, removing the gauge and giving it a "last chance to start" before canceling my reservations for the weekend. Don't you know it primed and started up as soon as I removed the gauge.





Turned out to be air in the 3' hose was pressurizing while the pump was running, then the pump would stop and the air pressure would force the fuel back through the pump loosing its prime.



I felt stupid that day.

 

[barryg41]

When I built my fuel pressure assembly I put bleeders on both pre and post fuel filter taps. I didn't know if it made a difference but I put them on anyway since I was doing the engineering myself.



Everything worked out ok. Not one stumble on the first try.



Here are some pics of my installation.



Barry



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[RustyJC]

Barry,



Nice install!



Just a note in passing - if that's run-of-the-mill white teflon tape on your threads, don't be surprised if you get leaks down the road. Diesel fuel isn't really compatable with the white stuff - there's a yellow teflon tape that can reportedly stand up to hydrocarbon service. Personally, I use Permatex #2 on threaded connections in hydrocarbon service.



JM2CW



Rusty

 

[pcarlson]

My repair book for the ISB's say to bleed the air before taking a reading. So I bled mine. Seem's less bouncy. If the pump is also higher than your sender it should purge itself (hard to do though).



M2C

 

[barryg41]

Well I figured that since I use teflon tape on just about everything at work it would be ok in this application. I didn't know that diesel ATE teflon tape. :--) I guess I could have left it off, but the senders have their own grounds. Unlike some of the other senders that I have read about. They exclusively say NO teflon tape.



Come to think of it... I wonder what is in the bleed valves. I hope they don't start leaking also. Maybe they don't have teflon for sealing the stem and seat.



Thanks for the tip Rusty at least I know why it failed if it ever does.

Originally posted by RustyJC

Barry,



Nice install!



Just a note in passing - if that's run-of-the-mill white teflon tape on your threads, don't be surprised if you get leaks down the road. Diesel fuel isn't really compatable with the white stuff - there's a yellow teflon tape that can reportedly stand up to hydrocarbon service. Personally, I use Permatex #2 on threaded connections in hydrocarbon service.



JM2CW



Rusty

 

[illflem]

The worst thing about using any kind of Teflon tape is that if you ever need to take things apart it's very difficult to remove the tape debris from the female ends without taking everything apart, wire brushing and blowing them out.

 

[barryg41]

One of the things that I learned in getting the teflon tape out of female fittings was using the right size steel brush on a drill to get out the remaining bits and pieces of teflon. Just put the drill in reverse.



We are also not allowed to use teflon tape on the process side nor anti sieze. Those two items make for bad plastic.



I do have one question... . If your post pressure is not going below 5lbs do you keep on using the same fuel filter till it goes below 5lbs? In my case I know the pre filter pressure. I know some of our members are using the extended life procedure. Going by pressure before changing the filter.



Running the filter till it clogs up might be a pay off for the fuel pressure gauge.

 

[dieselshu]

FO pressure sensor mounting an purging

Bob, I installed my Dakota Digital gauge and sensor last October and have had zero problems... the sensor is mounted to the hole in the dipstick tube bracket above and back of the FO filter with a heavy duty stud mount cable tie (flexible), I wrapped a strip of rubber and foam around the sensor to give it more isolation... off the bottom of the sensor is the needle valve and the section of aeroquip hose to the inlet of the VP44. I loosened the aeroquip fitting to banjo at the VP44, the turned the ignition until the LP kicked in, bumped starter once, tightened the aeroquip and then fired off.

All is well to this day.

Goodluck



Dave

 

[RJOL]

Got a 3' extension off the VP-44 for my fuel sender. When I change the fuel filter my RAM doesn't want to start, even after I prime the filter, without bleeding the 3' line.