Is it normal to get clanking noise from driveline when releaseing clutch

[MickeyMiller]

Mine started 'clunking' a couple of months ago. Just replaced both rear U-Joints, no more 'clunk'! It was the rear joint that had destroyed the pair of rollers on one cross. The front U-joint was fine... but I changed it anyway. I've changed U-joints on a lot of vehicles over the years, these were the toughest both to remove and then to install, I will grease these religiously... out of fear!

 

[rbattelle]

I've changed U-joints on a lot of vehicles over the years, these were the toughest both to remove and then to install, I will grease these religiously... out of fear!

Man, the press fit in those yokes is intense! No need for that kind of interference. If I had a mill (some day) I'd have reamed them out a couple thousandths.



The smaller joints in the axles and front driveshaft are WAY easier.



Ryan

 

[Cattletrkr]

Man, the press fit in those yokes is intense! No need for that kind of interference. If I had a mill (some day) I'd have reamed them out a couple thousandths.

The smaller joints in the axles and front driveshaft are WAY easier.

Ryan

Yeah, but they're not worth replacing. I had mine replaced and then a year later spent 2x that amount for a whole new shaft.

And to stay on track. Mine clunks a lot. A lot of that if the truck, a lot of it is me, and it hasn't been a u-joint for 113K. Now if that's not a jinx I don't know what is.

 

[MickeyMiller]

Cattletrkr,

I've always had a little drivetrain play but never had a 'clunk' until a couple of months ago. It was noticably different and very anoying! I have to believe if the U-joint had been lubed, it would have lasted a LOT longer! I also have to believe that if I HAVE to, replacing the U-Joints will be easier the next time! Hell, by then there may even be a U-joint that is exactly the correct size!!!

 

[RHestand]

Grizzly,

Just an idea: Maybe to try to isolate the sound between the driveline,u-joints etc. and the dual mass flywheel, try shutting the engine off in neutral and with the clutch out. This clanking sound is from the dual mass flywheel.

If the sound is similar it could be the flywheel coming apart.

It's an easy check.

Ray

 

[steved]

My neighbor has a 2006 CTD DRW, 6 speed G56, 4WD. Every time he changes gears, he get a clanking noise from the drive line, which he says come from the transfer case to the front axle. The two dealers and independent transmission shops he has taken it to say it's normal. My 05 doesn't do it, my son's 04. 5 doesn't do it and my 95 never did it. He said that when he changes gears at 1500 RPM and is very easy with the clutch, he can avoid the noise, but when he pulls his 5th wheel, he can't avoid it.

Has he checked for a siezed ujoint???



steved

 

[Motorhead]

My 07 has done this from day 1. I think its just the dual mass flywheel clunking as tension is suddenly released from the driveline as you clutch.



It has taught me to be a better driver, shifting on the moment the driveline goes slack from releasing the throttle. Its a more proper shift and minimizes stress on the whole driveline. If you pay attention to how big trucks with non synchro'd gearboxes shift, you'll notice that they shift the same way...



-Dan

I second this. My '07 has done the same since day 1 also. I think that the DMF is to blame.

 

[ADanka513]

Clunk in our drivetrain was a rear ujoint also had a slight vibration. Drive it around for a while, when u get home go under and grab all the ujonts, if u find a warm or hot one, that could be it! good luck.

 

[TAbbott]

If there is no vibration at speed, I doubt the problem is with the U-joints. If you can make it vibrate by gently easing into the throttle or letting it "float" with no pressure or lightly decelerating, tht's typically a U-joint on the way out. All of my "clanking" or "clunking" issues went away when I installed a set of tuff country traction bars. I think the noises were from spring wrap, and the front of the bottom "overload" leaf contacting the rest of the spring stack on acceleration or snapping back when the torque load was quickly removed. The traction bars essentially turn the rear suspension into a 4 link, where the suspension wrap cannot occur. For whatever it's worth, those bars are now on sale at JC Whitney at over $90. 00 off. Good deal if you ask me...