Here I am

Is It too much weight?

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Had 5er axles flipped

16" Trailer Wheels

One of the advantages of the 3/4 ton truck is that it can be a daily driver as well as a hauler. I've ridden in the dually and it really wrinkles my shorts unladen.



Not everyone can afford to have a committed tow vehicle, and my kidneys can't handle a dually as a daily driver.
 
I won't get drawn into a GVWR argument and I've made my opinion known in dozens of different posts on several different forums, so I only want to make a couple of comments;



- I think GFrance is right. Most people buy a 2500 when they either have a smaller trailer or anticipate buying a smaller trailer. Then they end up with something bigger and "make do". As long as they are not grossly overweight and they pay attention, they're probably fine. I'm the first to admit that the manufacturers GVWR ratings are suspect, but in the absence of any other method of determining a safe load, most are more comfortable living within these ratings.



- I think Rusty's point is well taken when people buy a truck knowing that they are going to be significantly over GVWR. Doesn't make alot of sense to me.



- Jim, as far a the dually thing goes, I've found that mine actually rides smoother than my '01 2500. It is harder to park and drive through drive-thru's but a harsh ride definitely doesn't seem to be a 3rd gen problem, even on a dually. What really puzzles me is why anyone that is planning on ever towing or hauling anything would buy a 2500 over a 3500 SRW? I can't figure that one out. Ride is the exact same and you get another 900lbs GVWR.



I'm one of those guys that would kill a spider with a 5lb sledgehammer, so I suppose it comes as no surprise that I'm totally happy driving my 3500 dually 365 days a year, just for the dozen times I get to load up and go camping.



Cheers

Dave
 
I have to step in here and make a statement about everyone who is being overly cautious. Please stop me if I'm wrong.



The stock "rear" weight of a 2003 2500 4x4 automatic long bed HO is under 3000 pounds. Your tires are rated to OVER 3000 pounds EACH (check sidewall). Let's say that gives you 6000 pounds to put on the rear tires. Your gross axle weight rating is 11000 so don't even go there. So lets round UP and assume 3000 pounds for the stock "rear" weight of the truck. That leaves you with over 3000 pounds of pin weight before you begin to step into being "technically" overloaded.



Maybe you have a couple hundred pounds of junk in the back, add that to your stock "rear" weight, and you will have less of an allowance for a pin weight. If your springs are sagging, add timbrens, airbags or overload springs. I'd go with overloads but I don't have any experience with the first two so I have no insight there.



Of course, I'm just talking about pure weight limitations. I'm not even touching on braking or what the transmission can handle.



Drive safely and enjoy!!!
 
Patrick, I agree with the gist of your post, BUT where in the heck did you get a rear axle with a GAWR of over 11,000 lbs?:eek:

My '03 3500 dually has the baddest rear axle at 9,350 GAWR, my '01 2500 had a rear GAWR of 6084 lbs. On the 2500, I had tires that were rated at 3415 lbs each, so it was actually the rear axle that was the weakest link (excepting the GVWR, of course).



Dave
 
Oh sorry. I am going by AAM's website.



http://www.aam.com/technology/tech_prod_dl_rearaxle.html



My guess is that the reason my 2500 has a "6000 # GAWR" is based on the tires... or maybe just based on marketing.



AAM 1150 4950 kg ( * 2. 204 = 10909 pounds GAWR)

AAM 1050 4545 kg ( * 2. 204 = 10017 pounds GAWR)



The axle torque capacities for the 1150 and 1050 are a lot different thought:



11300 Nm vs. 8450 Nm. I figure while I'm doing math I'll figure that out too.



11300 Nm = 8333. 33 lb. ft.

Stock HO is 550 Lb ft. * 5. 61 (1st gear) * 4. 10 (rear end) = 12650 lb ft.



According to that you should be blowing your rear end in first gear??? Alright that doesn't work right. Whoever wants to help me out there please do.
 
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