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is slowing down the only option ?

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Jed Clampett's Trailer

Does Detroit make an 8.3?????

got into new territory for me this past weekend. towing the TT up a 3 mile 7% grade I needed 2nd gear. the egt's stayed within range as did the water temps but the transmission temp started rising rapidly. BUT, no place to pull over, shift into neutral and cool down.



so is going more slowly up the grade the only option to stop the rising trans temp?
 
Your torque converter was unlocked when you were pulling the grade, right? If so, that's where the heat is coming from. A transmission controller that allows lockup in 2nd gear would greatly alleviate the problem.



If your torque converter was locked up, ignore the above. ;) :D



Rusty
 
The problem with most auxillary coolers is getting enough air flow. Some of the newer race trucks use electric fans in conjunction with the cooler to keep the temperature down. Simply sticking a cooler or two in front of the radiator usually isn't enough at the slower speeds you experience when climbing steep grades.



I like the idea of 2nd gear lockup of the TC. It it's in good shape, it should be able to handle the load in 2nd and 3rd gear.
 
If I'm not mistaken you'll need an aftermarket valve body and TC before you can venture into 2nd gear lockup territory. At least that's what the info said that came with my trans commander box.



I can tell you first hand that having that 2nd gear lockup is sooooo nice compared to generating a lot of heat and loosing a lot of power while trying to climb while not in lockup. VBs, TCs, and control boxes are expensive but IMO they are worth every penny.
 
at the risk of sounding stupid.



I was under my truck tonight and found an auxillary transmission cooler. It was located next to the gas tank between the frame rail and the side panel of the bed.



Don't ask me, I don't know.



I agree with the airflow comment. The thing isn't any good without air flowing through it. Small benefit maybe in having more fluid volume.



Is there a simple switch for locking the torque converter or is it an expensive mod. I'd like to put in an exhaust brake.
 
2nd Gear Lockup

Need a aftermarket TC & VB. Cost depends on flavor but typically about $1000-$1100. A Controller runs in the neighborhood of $450, A Billet input shaft & hub another $700 or so to ensure you don't grenade your trans from using the lockup device... . Gets pretty spendy pretty fast! You can re-gear for less money & go to 4. 10s of course your fuel mileage will suffer a bit if yours is a daily driver.

I'm opting for 4. 10s for heating issues... . No need to down shift with the 4. 10s & being able to keep the trans in lockup. To each his own.



Clay
 
TC lockup in 2nd would probably help a lot. Next best thing would probably be to pull the hill in 1st gear instead of second. The TC would still be unlocked, but this will put less of a load on the TC and the engine, and keep that cooling fan spinning (watch your RPM though!). It may be slow, but still better than sitting still.



I have had the same problem with heat going up mountain passes. I don't have an EGT or trans guage *yet*, but some passes would have my coolant temp climbing quick. Cottonwood Pass, near Buena Vista, CO was one of the worse. I changed the thermostat, radiator cap, radiator hoses, cleaned all the bugs out of the radiator fins, flushed the radiator and added "Icewater" on the refill. All that, and it may have helped some, but the problem didn't go away. The only thing that seemed to help was to go FAST up the pass. Keeping trans in 3rd (TC locked) and speed above 45mph for increased airflow kept the temp in control. I bet the folks in the CARS that pulled over to let the maniac pass them pulling a 35' 5th wheel trailer up Cottonwood Pass probably didn't like my method. But it worked. :)



Since then, (months, and MANY miles later) I upgraded to the ATS transmission, TripleLok converter, and now the TripleLok Commander. I can't wait to see the difference next time I head for the mountains. I suspect that TC and transmission slippage contributed to the heat problem long before it finally failed.



I now have Mag-Hytec DD trans pan, but haven't installed it yet, and don't expect to hit the mileage for the first filter/fluid change on the new transmission before I head off to Moab next month. I know - it would be nice to have gauges and the new pan installed before I leave, but I just don't see it happening.



See hyperlink in my signature for all the truck details. I figure my NEXT mods will be gauges, then probably a 4 inch exhaust. Beyond that, who knows ... cold air intake? hybrid turbo? fueling box? bigger injectors? :D:D:D
 
You can do a search for "magic switch" and get a bunch of info which is a poorman's way of locking up the TC on demand HOWEVER, your trans and TC will probably start heading south much quicker if you go that route. Remember, there's a reason why DC has the stock crap unlocking all the time (it can't take the torque in those situations) Also, from what I've read from some of the trans builders is you do not need a hardned input shaft unless you're making way more power than stock i. e. 350-400 hp and up if I remember right. I haven't had any problems with mine and I didn't buy the hardned shaft (per consultation with ATS). Again, the reason why your truck doesn't lockup in 1st and 2nd as well as unlocks when you lift off the throttle is to save the stock TC (it would otherwise slip).



You could go to 4:10s but the fact is if you're towing any measurable amount of weight you'll still have to come out of lockup many times due to the truck forcing you to and they'd be other times that you should be downshifting manually to keep the truck running in the right power range. Anyone with guages can attest that when the truck starts to lug even slightly EGTs start to go through the roof and on top of that your lower RPMs will be pumping less fluid through the trans (bad). Also, 4:10s won't resolve the nasty stock programming of the PCM unlocking the TC when you lift which is at times is flat out frightning coming down off a mountain pass with 10k + behind the truck (trust me I know/been there). I'm not anti-4:10s but let's be honest it's not the same as having a VB and TC with a box controlling everything. You still have the inherient design limitiation of the stock components.



I also think you need to have an aftermarket VB (and most likely TC) to be able to effectively use an exhaust brake. The controller I have, which I paid under $400 for has the capability built in to turn on and off an exhaust brake (if equipped).



The money spent to get to a *reliable* 2nd gear lockup capability was well, well worth it. Getting the transmission to perform the way it should have from the factory is the best BOMB I've ever done... . hands down. It's pretty much a lose-lose situation with the stock trans if you tow heavy/frequently. My bottom line recommendation is for folks to follow the transmission gurus guidance and build-up your trans according to the capability you desire. If you short-cut anything in the 47RE chain it will come back and bite you... ... . It only took about 6 months of running my EZ before mine started to go south.



Good luck.
 
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Your right about the 4. 10s not helping when going down the back side of a pass... But, with the 4. 10s your RPMs will be higher in 3rd direct or OD & will help with lugging the engine in regards to EGTs. I have guages with a DTT trans less the Billets, & with the 3. 5s & 285s it definately throws me into a yet higher gear ratio. 4. 10s would help immensely with regards to heat on a long, winding road at like 8+ % with my 5vr in tow.

DTT recommends a Billet input shaft & hub if a controller is wanted. Bill said that he has seen like a 27% failure on stock input shafts where a lockup device is used if I'm not mistaken. Gears (4. 10s) would be my choice realizing that it won't help me coming down the back side of a hill. I know what your speaking about though, it's not a good feeling.



Clay
 
Guava, I thought the same thing on my friend's GMC DA. Turned out to be a fuel cooler. I don't know about the new Dodge's but the fuel systems are similar Bosch units.
 
klaybus said:
But, with the 4. 10s your RPMs will be higher in 3rd direct or OD & will help with lugging the engine in regards to EGTs.

Clay



No doubt about it Clay. My 1st post was reponding to the thread originator who doesn't have any trans upgrades so my thought was to give him my experiences so he might skip some of the hard knocks I took down the road to getting a good trans setup. :)



On your stuff man, I would think that since you have "built" transmission you could use a controller very safety if you treated everything right i. e. let off a bit during lockup shifts etc. I wonder what percentage of the 27% input failures that your guy has seen was on trucks with big horsepower.



My switch to an aftermarket trans was great but the box made it totally awesome, it really added that much more drive/towability to the package. I just don't like running unlocked at all, you're making heat at that point while at the same time losing RWHP thorugh the fluid coupling inefficencies.



c-ya,



Rich
 
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is the trans fluid leaving the TC a problem or is it the continued heat that is not disipated via the cooling capabilities? what I mean is if the fluid leaving the TC is at 210 degress and after cooling returns to the pan at 160 is that bad for the clutch plates etc. ?



or is it that it leaves the TC at 210 and the pan temps slowly (or quickly) rise to a point where the fluid is 210 and leaving the TC at 230 and so on and so on ... ... .



Dane, thanks for the pointer to the fan. that looks like a winner for us desert folk.
 
guava said:
at the risk of sounding stupid.



I was under my truck tonight and found an auxillary transmission cooler. It was located next to the gas tank between the frame rail and the side panel of the bed.



Don't ask me, I don't know.



.



was a factory option transmission cooler w/ a fan that was offered on 1st gen trucks. a good idea imo. wish they had continued that option for the 2gen and 3g rigs
 
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