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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Is there a different bulb for headlights that is brighter?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Amsoil with twins?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Reliable Turbo

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I found an old set (still new in the original package) of American Products Company (APC) Super White High Wattage Xenon Gas 9004 bulbs. The package says they are rated actual wattage 100/80 watt and Xenon Equivalent Brilliance 130 watts. Part # 50900PW.



Are these lights safe to use in my truck? :confused: I have read articles of headlight switches melting.



I called APC and they gave me a part #509104 for their HID High Perfomance Wire Harness which their Tech Support guy said was a plug and play harness. (autozone has them for $55. 95)



Anyone here using any of these products currently or in the past or have any feedback or comments? Thanks!
 
The headlight switch melts because Dodge put in equipment that just barely holds the load. If you change anything the switch overheats. The instrument light dimmer also produces much heat with the lights dimmed. That's why a lot of people have installed relays to handle the lights, takes the load off the switch. Summit kit works well but there are other ways of going too.
 
There are plenty of replacement lamps for the H9004 lamps you have in your truck. There is the standard HO9004 which is a High Output lamp, GE has the Silver Stars and the Blue light H9004, PIAA has two versions of the H9004 that are both very good and Probably 5-6 more that I didn't list. I have been down this same road you are on, I trued all the above listed lamps and had only very limited success. But what I did learn Thur the process is that the factory wiring harness sucks big time. They used way too small of Gauge wire and took the most unusually route between battery and lamps. All this combined with a too small headlight switch (under rated) leads too headlights that no one can see with. Their are many on this site that made their own headlight re-power harness, some larger gauge wire a couple relays and a few terminals and you have it, only problem is not everyone can build one of these for their own. I found a great product that Summit Racing sells Thur their huge mail order catalog, it is a very well engineered and assembled wiring harness that completely re-powers the front headlights directly from the battery. This kit is very simple to install, no tools or know how needed. Just remove the headlight plug and plug it into the new harness, then plug the new harness into the headlight. Do this on both sides then just attach the Red+ wire to the battery and the Black- wire to the negative side of the battery. The two relays can be mounted with a simple screw, or laid behind the battery. That is it, it will now draw 100% of the headlight power from the battery, and this really brightens up the light output. No more dull, almost yellow looking lights, now you will have very bright, white lights. The whole thing is very well built with heavy duty wire cover, fuses, and quality relays and connectors. The catalog number is SUM-890030 and cost $39. 95. It's the best forty bucks you can spend for better lights. After the wiring up-grade I installed my Piaa lamps and now they have the juice to really shine, a whole different animal now.
 
Summit Harness

Thanks y-not,

I ordered the harness, your right the stock harness and switch leave something to be desired!

Chuck E.
 
Me too. I am running standard wattage Silverstars, they help a bit. I can tell you our 2001 Honda Accord EX V6 has 10 times the head light system compared to the truck. We moved to a bit of a remote area with no street lights etc. I am going to be very interested in what the harness does for the lights. SNOKING
 
y-knot, thank you VERY much for the info. ! I read your post in another thread about this and ordered the harness from Summit last night. I am looking forward to getting it installed and seeing the difference. A similar harness from APC cost about $55 so your tip saved me $15.
 
ceastmen said:
Can you run a Brite Box with Silvers Stars or any other of the bulbs

mentioned in earlier posts?

Thanks Chuck E.

Thats what I have on my 04 Brite Box with Silver Stars. I just might have to get this wiring harness Summit has a try. Older I get the more light I want. :-laf
 
Anyone know if there is any quality difference between the wiring harness from Summit and the one at suv lights.com? (The Summit harness costs quite a bit less) What is the wire gauge size used on the Summit harness?
 
Has anyone else checked the voltage drop at the bulbs on a 98 or 99 truck? I only have . 2 volts drop.



The newer trucks use a switched ground system, does the summit kit work on those also?
 
I just installed the summit wiring kit on my 2001. 5. Have not tested it much yet, however lights are brighter for sure. Now thinking about some higher wattage bulbs. SNOKING
 
HOWDY...

I have just now lost MY SWITCH... ... .

As I didn't realize that using the DIMMER would make it fail sooner...

Is there an after market RESISTOR that I could use for just the dash,,(I have lite sensative eys an the GLARE bothers)

I have the new DODGE REPAIR kit... and orderd the SUMMIT HARNESS...

The question I haveis,,,, with the new harness will I have to CUT IN to the new switch kit??

The reason I'm asking is I'd hate to put it all toughter ,,what with the heat shrink an all ,,AN THEN have to cut in to it !!!!



THANKS FOR ANY AN ALL HELP GUYS... .....



Mike In Maine
 
Summitt kit goes up front at the head lights not on the switch. Fix the switch and add the summitt kit. You should than be able to dim them. The Headlite load to moved off the switch and runs from the batteries via relays right to the headlights. SNOKING
 
I see Summit offers *2* kits at the same price and nearly the same # - one is for 9004 lights, the other for 9007 - wonder what the actual difference might be?
 
Snow King is right, replace the switch and add the summit kit. It is a plug and play the way it comes. I replaced the fusable links with 15A fuses in holders (easier to replace a fuse than a link) and ran the wire over the top of the radiator with existing run. Put both relays on pass side bolted to one of the radiator housing bolts. Had to add a little wire to the driver side ground lead and terminated all ends at passenger side on the battery. Easy install. Kit plugs into either one of the existing light plugs with two new connectors for light bulbs. Now I want to get a heavier wattage bulb to replace existing. Some have opened a small hole in AC duct just under switch for more air movement to cool dimmer rsistor, don't think it is needed once the switch load is reduced.
 
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"Some have opened a small hole in AC duct just under switch for more air movement to cool dimmer rsistor, don't think it is needed once the switch load is reduced. "



I sorta think the "dimmer resistor" function is limited to voltage reduction for the DASH lights, and totally unaffected by any headlight mods or upgrades... ;)
 
Your right,the dimmer function is only for instrument lights, and is not changed by the Summit harness kit, but with the load reduced the heat is not too much for the switch. The air hole helps out even more. I did not put the hole in the duct and the switch stays nice and cool to the touch, have not had any problems so far.
 
Summit harness

HOWDY ,,,



Thanks every one...

Now I can put my new switch tomorrow,,,an FINALLY have some talilights on the ole girl... ... ... Oo.



One more question... I put AFTERMARKET driveing lights in my ROAD-ARMOR. .

I picked up POWER FOR the RELAY from the origanal drive/fog lights.

by doing so... did that STILL make a draw from the HEAD LIGHT SWITCH?? :rolleyes:



THANKS AGAIN EVERY ONE... .....



Mike In Maine
 
Yup, but you are only powering the relay so should be OK. Problem with Dodge is they did not put relays on the headlights and then put in wire and switch that were barely heavy enough to run things so it all overheats. All switches make heat so they must be heavy enough to handle the load.
 
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