Is this a major problem?? Chipped turbo fin

[Jack104]

I pulled off the silencer ring on my '08 6. 7 and apparantly used a pry bar that was too large. 2 fins chipped when the ring popped off. Is this going to be a problem? The dowel pins also tore through the housing in 2 spots. I am not worried about the tears but will the fin be off balance and cause other problems? This is probably one that the dealer will notice.





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Jack

 

[HBarlow]

Sorry, this is not what you want to hear (read) but I believe my answer is correct.

My guess is yes, it will become a very serious problem because the turbo spins at extremely high rpm, something like 100,000 rpms under full power. My figure may be high but the point is the turbo spins at extremely high rpms and I would expect that even minor damage to the fins will cause the turbo shaft to be out of balance. Imbalance will wear out the turbo bushings or bearings very early. The damaged fins could even break off and cause catastrophic failure during a full power climb under load.

I think your best bet is to take it promptly to a dealer, confess your mistake, and ask for mercy at the parts department with a good discount. If it is the worst most costly mistake you ever make consider yourself lucky. Everyone makes mistakes and everyone has to pay for their mistakes.

Maybe I'm wrong and an experienced mechanic who has seen it before will chip in and correct me.

 

[JR2]

I am afraid Harvey is correct. I don't think I would even drive it across the parking lot with the fins chipped the way they are. If there is some unseen damage you may pop the turbo and end up with a much more expensive lesson. With that said, you ought to be able to replace just the wheels and bearings, not the whole turbo.

 

[Jack104]

Is it possible to replace the wheel and bearing at home? The dealer is going to really make me pay for this stupid mistake. At least someone else may be able to learn from this and be extremely careful when popping off the silencer.

 

[JDiehl]

What about looking on E Bay for a new turbo? Saw a thread a while back about alot of them being on there. Even if the rest of the turbo was bad could you just use the compressor wheel? Just a thought.

 

[MullenaxM]

I have a used turbo, 8000 miles. The compressor turbine can be replaced without removing the turbo from the truck. But i'm courious about the reason for removing the silencer ring in the first place?

 

[CKelley1]

same here, while you have the housing off put the ring back in. just buy the turbo from mullenax and replace the complete turbo. leave every thing alone on the intake side of the turbo. all you are going to do is shorten the life of the truck or reduce your mpg. if you want to do some good do it on the exhaust side. egr, cat, dpf and muffler delete first then smarty jr. and do not use a oild filter, stay oem.

 

[HBarlow]

A word of caution: An ISB6. 7 turbo you find for sale on eBay or other similar source was removed from a new truck engine for a valid reason. Lots of them were replaced on early '07. 5 Rams due to soot contamination. Beware of making a minor problem a more serious problem.

 

[MullenaxM]

A word of caution: An ISB6. 7 turbo you find for sale on eBay or other similar source was removed from a new truck engine for a valid reason. Lots of them were replaced on early '07. 5 Rams due to soot contamination. Beware of making a minor problem a more serious problem.

Caution is good advise, Barlow is right, there are a lot of turbo's with soot contamination issues and there were some with mechanical issues and a few that were produced on a misformed jig that caused the housings to be machined inproperly. The soot contamination issues can be solved with a good cleaning of the slide ring and slide ring guide pins. Most of the early turbo's with the mechanical and machining issues have been replaced early in 2007 because the problems with the turbo's kept turning on the "CHECK ENGINE" light and setting a P2262 trouble code.

"BUT" you say "Were still having problems and the "CHECK ENGINE" light is still coming on and still setting a code that damn "P2262" code.



So, As Mr. Harvey used to say, "Here is the rest of the story"... .



The code P2262 is store in the engine control module (E. C. M. ) memory any time the ECM determines there is a problem with the accuation of the turbocharger slide ring (simplified explaination). The most common problem is a accumulation of soot on the slide ring and the slide ring guide pins causing the slide ring to stick at times. The way the ECM monitors the slide ring is through a sensor inside the turbocharger accuator motor housing. This sensor send a voltage signal to the ECM to tell the ECM how far it is extended or retracted. The position of the slide ring can be monitored with a scan tool and is read as a percentage of extension or retraction with 100% being fully extended and 0% being fully retracted or to put it another way, :

100% = Exhaust Brake

0% = Full Boost

Just to give you and example most of the time at cruising speed, 60 to 70 mph with no load , most VGT turbo slide rings set between the 50% to 70% extension range.



Anytime a there is a mechnical failure with the turbo slide ring and the ECM see the fault its will store a P2262 fault code in its memory. Along with storing the fault code the ECM will also take a "snap shot" of all the other sensor readings or data perameters at the time the fault occured and stores it as a "Freeze Frame". When we connect a scan tool and accsess the trouble code we have the capibilty to look at the "Freeze Frame" and see all the ECM data at the time the fault code was set. Two of the data perameters we look at when a code P2262 sets is the percentage of slide ring extension and the time sense the engine was started this trip. Two of the of the things that was common with almost all (greater than 90% of all vehicles with P2262 fault code) is the the slide ring position was at approximatly at 60% and the time sense the engine was started was less than 300 seconds...



Want More ?

 

[HBarlow]

MullenaxM,

You must be a Level 4 trained/certified Dodge-Cummins tech or a Cummine MREP engineer. I've never seen that much detailed info written on the subject.

Your frequent posts on the new ISB6. 7 engines would be interesting reading for the rest of us. Please add your comments to ISB6. 7 posts.

 

[MullenaxM]

Your absolutely right, I'll start a new thread.

 

[Jack104]

Dodge just told me that I would have to replace the whole turbo for $2100 !! This cannot be right so they are double-checking. Anyone have any advice here?? Appreciate the help. I am not a newbie when it comes to Jeeps but I do not know anything about turbo's.



Jack

 

[Suprmn]

Dodge just told me that I would have to replace the whole turbo for $2100 !! This cannot be right so they are double-checking. Anyone have any advice here?? Appreciate the help. I am not a newbie when it comes to Jeeps but I do not know anything about turbo's.



Jack

Thats all any of these dealers can say. Why do you think they are going bankrupt? I believe the turbos are made from Holset and you should be able to buy parts from them if necessary.

 

[3grumpy]

What about an after market turbo or an independent turbo shop. Just a thought

 

[DSoutherland]

mines been that way goin on 45000 now with no problems,knock on wood. My warranty is almost up and i was also thinking of an aftermarket turbo. I would also like to hear some suggestions.

 

[HBarlow]

Dodge just told me that I would have to replace the whole turbo for $2100 !! This cannot be right so they are double-checking. Anyone have any advice here?? Appreciate the help. I am not a newbie when it comes to Jeeps but I do not know anything about turbo's.

Jack

I have received excellent prices and great service from MOPAR4LESS, a MOPAR internet parts dealer. The company is actually Advantage Chrysler in Farmington, NM but has a separate high volume internet parts retail operation.

I always used a woman named "K". When I was transporting and putting 13,500 miles/month on the odometer K had my credit card number on file and when I needed a part I could send an email or call and leave a message for her after hours telling her what I needed. She never failed me. The part would be in the hands of UPS or FEDEX early the next day sometimes even in my hands the following day.

You might call her and tell her you were referred by me and you are a TDR member and check her price. It won't cost anything to ask. As a minimum, you'll save state sales tax by buying via internet or toll free number. She always beat the local dealers by a wide margin.

MOPAR4LESS has a website. Save Big @ Mopar4Less.com!! - Full Line Of Mopar Parts -

 

[Drdorian]

I have a used turbo, 8000 miles. The compressor turbine can be replaced without removing the turbo from the truck. But i'm courious about the reason for removing the silencer ring in the first place?

Unfortunately this is incorrect, the shaft/wheel is balanced for every turbo, simply replacing one component will be as bad as running the truck with the defect. Some folks remove the silencer ring to get a bit more turbo noise. In order to fix this problem the turbo needs to be replaced. Also, as this is on the compressor side of the turbo as soon as this comes apart (which it will) there will be pieces of metal which will more than likely make their way to the intake. So, it's wither $2,000 now for a turbo or a new engine soon down the road.

 

[MullenaxM]

I first thought they were balanced together as a unit also, but when I did more reserch I found out that they are balanced but saparately, But I do agree with you that The turbo needs to be replaced, I can and will do more engine damage if it was to come apart.

 

[HBarlow]

I first thought they were balanced together as a unit also, but when I did more reserch I found out that they are balanced but saparately, But I do agree with you that The turbo needs to be replaced, I can and will do more engine damage if it was to come apart.

It is my opinion and was my recommendation that the original poster replace the turbo asap to avoid engine damage but I'm not a mechanic.

Have you ever seen a high mileage engine with damaged turbo blades like the OP's that did not disintegrate or have you seen a turbo with damaged blades that did disintegrate?