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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Is this truck a fair deal?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) help again

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The asking price is a little less then what Kelley Blue Book lists it at. As far as what to look at, check out pretty much anything that you would normally look at for a used car (oil leaks, broken stuff, etc... ). As far as things specific to a diesel, I'm sure somebody else on here has a better idea than I do, so I don't want to give you wrong information.
 
I just sold an 01 regular cab(readers rigs) for $18,500. I am not sure about the condition of the truck you have listed but that may be an okay price for an extended cab truck. Make sure it has not been in an accident or had issues. I tried to buy a truck that the local dealer made out to be as good as new. It had a plastic bedliner covering up a ton of sores. (holes from stacks, fifth wheel hitch, bad electrical plug for trailer shorting out brake and trail lights). I don't mind mods at all, just don't try to hide issues that need to be fixed or tuned. Good luck, buying a used car is always fun!!

Dave
 
One of the best things you can do is to check the fuel pressure, I think you want something like 12-15 psi at idle and nothing below 6-7 at WOT. I am not possitive about these numbers, but they are close to these. This is important b/c of the VP44, you don't want to have to buy one right after your friend spends 20,000 on a truck.



Rick
 
I bought mine in May of 01 for $18,000 w/75k. The dealer wanted 19,900. I'd try to squeeze them down as much as possible. I noticed coach homes in the background? I'd check the trans out if it was used to tow the majority of those miles. The autos are the weak link and can run $$$$ when (not if) it needs to be done. Mine was a mason contractor's truck and the trans lasted till 139 so it's a toss of the dice. At the very least tell the dealer to run a CarFax on it for you - make sure it's not a flood truck - check origin of title etc. Nice looking truck though - is it a non-SLT? Noticed the write up mentioned HD Vinyl seats?
 
We are going to look at the truck in person on Monday night so I'll know more then. But my fear would be the trans, and I see a gauge pod so I'm not sure if that means it's been bombed or if the gauges are just for keeping an eye on an otherwise stock truck???
 
Gauges are usually put in for Bombs but can be used for towing on stock trucks also. Check the pump wire, or any evidence of a fueling/timing box.



Nick
 
CCiatteo said:
We are going to look at the truck in person on Monday night so I'll know more then. But my fear would be the trans, and I see a gauge pod so I'm not sure if that means it's been bombed or if the gauges are just for keeping an eye on an otherwise stock truck???



Don't be frightened off if it's been bombed - it still ONLY has 81k miles on it. Ask nonchalantly "wow what kind of modifications does it have?" to see what the seller says. If it's not the owner selling and the person says "I'm not sure?" Ask them to contact the owner on the phone while you are there. If they give you a line "ah, he's out of town" then I'd think your spider senses should start tingling :-laf



It can be bombed and still be good deal if you can get the price in an area you want it to be. Heck, the previous owner may have saved you time and money based on what was done and how it was used and taken care of. Probe, probe, probe with the questions. Then if you are interested/like what you hear chop that price. As far as the trans. best thing you can do (outside of have the pan dropped to check for debris) is pull the stick, is the level high or low, is it nice and clean all the way to the top, is the fluid cherry red - can't really go by smell that much anymore as the +4 has it's own distinct odor. Does it leak, are there signs of leakage under the cab/bed body and around the actual trans? Are there wrenching marks on the pan bolts? Check the level cold and after it gets up to temp. remember to "look" at the whole stick both cold and hot for signs of foaming and/or debris. Is the 1-2 shift firm? Is the 2-3 shift a little less firm? is the 3-4 shift just a little nudge? and when it goes into OD does it "slide in" or another little nudge. The progression in shifts on a trans that has been "done" should be firm to less firm as you go up if any lower shift (say 1-2) is smoother than a higher shift (2-3 or 3-4) somethin ain't quite right - MHO



I still think you can better the price. Most sellers put up an "asking" price with a bottom line in mind. So, if this one is "asking" 21k he probably is hoping for 19,500, start out at say 18, wait till the seller is looking you in the face before you say anything, let there be an inpatient pause say 7 - 10 seconds then state firmly your figure and watch the eyes and facial expressions for the immediate reaction.



It depends on alot of things though - most of all your gut feeling based off of what you see, hear, smell and feel - I've heard of guys tasting but yuk - not sure what that does other than allow you to say you used all your senses :-laf



Good luck - said it before I'll say it again "nice looking truck", short bed too hauls more arse. :-laf



Keep us in tune and happy test drive to you.
 
:D
NPloysa said:
Gauges are usually put in for Bombs but can be used for towing on stock trucks also. Check the pump wire, or any evidence of a fueling/timing box.



Nick





Well my buddy went and checked out the truck, super clean in, out, under (no holes from stacks or fifth wheel mounts hiding under the bedliner) and according to the dealer, no performance upgrades. Simply added the gauges (boost, transmission temp, EGT all autometer) to keep an eye on things. So on that front we'll see. I didn't get to go as I was stuck at work, but he said it doesn't feel super quick or pour smoke and still has the factory air-box and full factory exhaust so I tend to believe the dealer. transmission felt fine, the truck is just super clean and has brand new rubber (Bridgestone Dueller Evos? or something like that, only a D rated tire though). Bridgestone Duellers have served me very well in the past on other trucks so I am guessing them to be a good fit on this truck as well, I just expected to see an E rating.



My buddy was able to get dealer down to 19K, so I think he did pretty good and got a really nice truck in the process. And it came with a 6 month 7500 mile 50/50 warranty (just incase something catostrophic happens. )



Things to do though, check the fuel pressure of the lift pump? What figures should he be looking for? I am thinking that a permanetly installed gauge would be the way to go?



KDP???



Haven't checked for the "53" block, but its too late now



I might have to start bombing my 12V now just to keep up :D



Thanks for the all the input.
 
champspa said:
Edmunds says 16800 full retail you and 14600 private party. I'll bet you can't buy one for this.



I agree, if you can find one at that price here in the northeast/midatlantic region its probably not in the best of shape. I scan the truck trader and truck shoppers constantly and these trucks hold their value quite well, so its tough to find one, let alone a good one... . and when you do you have to act quickly. 6. 0L Powerstrokes are all over the place for sale (and their prices are not steals in anyway either), 7. 3 Powerstrokes on the other hand are a tough find and seem to command a strong resale price.



Well now that he got the truck, time will tell if the deal was right. And here's to hoping its a good deal. :D
 
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