Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Isspro FP issolator hose ?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) the dark side

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Must be a fuel problem

Status
Not open for further replies.
Just got all my Isspro gauges from Geno's, and I'm trying to figure out what to use for a hose from the filter fiitting/port to the issolator. I got a nylon(?) hose kit with the gauges, but I'm not sure if I'm supposed to use this to connect between the port and issolator. I know I'm to install it between the issolator and gauge, but do I also use it between the filter port and issolator? This is on a 98. 5... .
 
I used the nylon tube originally from my filter canister to the isolator. It failed about every 6 months due to vibrations. I was lucky and caught it before it completely let loose each time. Complete failure here is not a good thing! I replaced it last year with rubber line. You can get rubber hose and fittings from Summit for reasonable price. All types of fittings are available from straight to 90*, 1/8", 1/4", etc. I used Russell Twist-Lok hose and fittings. Easy to assemble and resulted in a clean, nice looking install. Make sure to use some sort of snubber in the line between your filter canister and the isolator. I think most are using a needle valve barely cracked open.



-Deon
 
I was afraid to use the nylon tube for fear of failure..... thanks for confirming, Deon. I was under the impression that a snubber was needed only if connecting directly to gauge with no issolator. I'm unfamiliar with needle valves..... I'll do a search. Do you think that if I used the smallest diameter line (1/8") that there would be less need for a snubber?
 
I have the same ISSPRO setup as you're installing. The same hard nylon hose goes between filter to issolator and issolator and guage. You wont need a snubber or needle valve with your setup because the small inside diameter of the nylon hose coupled with the fuel reservoir in the issolator act as its own snubber. Guage is rock steady with no pulsations. I've had mine for over 2 years w/o any signs of trouble.
 
My experience is that the nylon tubing will eventually fail at the engine end right at the compression fitting. I shortened my tube and replaced the compression fitting 4 times before I finally fixed it with a rubber hose and proper NPT fittings. I recommend a snuber of some sort. I was able to get ALL of the air out of the anti-freeze line from isolator to the gauge. No air in the line causes any andall pulsations to travel through all liquid lines and up to the gauge. Air in the lines will dampen pulsations, but can also cause incorrect FP readings. I would not install without a snubber. A needle valve also allows you to shut off the flow of diesel in case of a leak somewhere in the isolator or tubing/hose. The size of the line does not make any difference as there is no flow through this line, just pressure. FWIW, I would just forget the whole isolator thing and plumb diesel to the back of the gauge. This is what I would do if I had it to do over again.



-Deon
 
Last edited:
Am I the only one that got an Isspro FP gauge with a braided stainless line? Mine came with it. The only nylon line/compression fitting I am running is boost gauge. I do have a needle valve with t-handle on it mounted to top of fuel filter housing, but gauge is steady regardless of needle valve position (well, that is until you shut the valve completely). Not a drop has leaked anywhere since install and I would highly recommend the stainless braided line.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the help guys! I'm going with the setup Mark is suggesting. One question... Why is it neceesary to run a 50/50 mix? I ask because the instructions did not say 50/50... . just said antifreeze.
 
SAronson, you can use water if it doesn't freeze where you live. The nylon hose "tubing" 1/8" compression fittings is to be used between the isolator and the gauge. You can use a grease gun replacement hose, 1/8" NPT on both ends you get at any auto parts store from about 12"-24" ( or whatever) will work fine between the fuel source and the isolator. You can also use steel braided (more expensive) hose, however, with that type of hose I know of two guys where the steel braided hose touched the battery terminals and fried everything. :-laf
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top