Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Its a slug

[V8daytona]

HELP... . I have a 95 cummins turbo w/auto standard cab dually... the truck is a total slug... . the truck has 103,000 on the clock..... when the truck is cold it has an engine shutter... and will barely move... . when it runs for 20 mins or so it gets a little better but not much... put a trailer w/bobcat on it and forget it ..... it really slow... I have changed the fuel lines because they dry roted and started to leak..... fuel filter was changed ... ... also when it is cold it blows white smoke out of the tail pipe..... i also check out the intecooler lines ..... you can hear the turbo working..... i also checked to make sure the injectors where work as per the service manual... ... . any ideas would be great... Thanks

 

[SEmerson]

Sounds like your timing sliped. OH Well factory to too low anyway. Time to turn it upOo. You will get better milage too.

 

[V8daytona]

if it did slip... ... how do you check it..... how would it slip anyway..... i never worked on a diesel before... ... is it an easy fix???

 

[britannic]

FAQ: click here



Remove and clean out the fuel heater strainer assembly. You'll want to get replacement seals to ensure it doesn't leak.



Make sure there's no restrictions in the tank or water contaimination - you may want to run some fuel additive, just in case.

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

Check out this link... http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm ... probably all you need to know...



Trent

 

[FreeBMW]

<---votes for slipped timing as well

 

[FParisi]

Mine was doing something like that - it turned out to be the lift pump was bad.

Another thing to check would be the overflow valve.

Let us know what you find out.

Frank

 

[Gatnom]

Be sure to check the fuel shut off solenoid. The plunger is a two piece design and has been known to come apart inside the rubber boot and only open a small amount. Happened to me. Dave

 

[Coalsmoke]

If the lift pump went on a 95, would it harm the p7100 like the newer lift pumps?

 

[FParisi]

Oops!

I looked back after I saw the last post - it was the shut off solenoid that was bad - the shaft inside the rubber boot was corroded and came apart.

Frank

 

[mikel]

Originally posted by Coalsmoke

If the lift pump went on a 95, would it harm the p7100 like the newer lift pumps?

No, it won't hurt the P-7100 like the VP's. The P-7100 is cooled and lubed by engine oil, the VP uses excess fuel for cooling and lube, so if you starve it for fuel you also starve it for cooling and lubrication.



Mike

 

[WadePatton]

A 95 auto (160 pumped truck) is a slug when operating at full OEM specs.



I had a thread a while back: "Help 12v slug"



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=65805&perpage=10&pagenumber=1



Best way to check timing is with pulse sensor for the injection line. Not a real common tool. Keep looking along the fuel system. And report back.

 

[jimk]

I vote for timing

I have a 95 also. I run 17. 5 degrees. Next install a 3 k governor kit. Slide the fuel plate after you slot the holes to gain a little more travel. Check the fuel pressure and the clamps on the inner cooler. That should give you more power. jim

 

[mikel]

My '95 5-speed was a dog when I got it, I can imagine what the auto must be like. Mine never had anything actually wrong with it, it was just a dog.



White smoke and not wanting to run when it's cold sounds like retarded timing to me. I'd recommend 15-16 degrees if you are going to change. Unless you're trying to make all your power real high in the RPM range you won't need more than that.



You should check the fuel pressure to eliminate the possibility of a weak lift pump or overflow valve. I think ~20psi at idle and ~28psi at 2000 rpm is where it should be. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.



Once you get these things out of the way then get some gauges and start sliding the stock plate forward or find a used #10 or #4. If you're going to eventually do governor springs then don't bother with any of the other numbers, 10 and 4 have been found to work better than the rest with governor springs.



Once you do this you'd better start saving your pennies for a transmission. It won't live long behind the power you'll get, especially if you go with a #4.



Good luck,

Mike

 

[Mile High Smoker]

I have a '94 3500 that had the same problem and just recently spent some time adding the mods listed below. My buddy calls my tuck the rabbit because it flat out gets up and runs. I can smoke the doors off most stock trucks.



A couple of suggestions:



With my 4. 10 gears I was pulling out of the governor RPM range. Get a set of 3K springs.



Fix the Dowel Pin. Mine was nearly half way out before I got it tabbed. While you have the gear housing cover off you can set the timing. I have mine set at 16* and it really does help with mileage. Currently running about 20. 5 mpg.



Also check the metal boost line from the turbo housing to the AFC housing. Mine was completely worn through from vibrating on the exhaust manifold. Boy its nice having the full range of boost now.





Lastly don't forget to adjust the valves.



These are some simple fixes, with the exception of the timing, that will improve your performance before you get into gauges, airflow, and fueling.

 

[V8daytona]

thanks to all who offered help... . i am going to try to fix it this week... .

 

[baby.driver]

How come no one mentions the grid heaters?

 

[Missouri Mule]

The grid heaters or one of it s components should be causing white smoke when cold out.