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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission I've been Luked!

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) New family member

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AMink

TDR MEMBER
I put in two Luke's Links tonight. Not a tough job at all. My track bar link was fine, but the link between the tie-rod and center link was horrible! I noticed it when doing some other suspension stuff. I'd wiggle one tire and I could hear a "CLUNK" in the joint. I could move one tire about 1/2 inch before the other moved! Anyway, since I ground the cap off, I had to use the old ball stud. It looked like it hadn't been greased since it came off the assembly line. My bad, but I did PAY to have service quite a few times :( . Now I know where all this stuff is! The zerk is kind of hard to get to without a flexible hose (which I will buy tomorrow!). Anyway, definitely worth it! I am having a ball working on my truck and would like to thank all the TDR guys who share their experience. definitely better than a shop manual! This'll teach my wife to say "just fix the one you have" :-laf !
 
Amink

If they din't grease that Joint then they probally never greased the front axle U-Joints (if yours are greasable) you might want to check.



Do the make the Lukes Link for all the tie rod ends on the steering? I thought they were only for the track bar?

Joe
 
Yeah, they are made for all the joints. I tried to install them on all the drag links yesterday. Gave up after 5 hours. I used the DT trackbar for that issue and old trackbar came out real easy so I dind't think I'd have any problem. Boy was I wrong. The tie rod ends are very hard to remove. Granted I was working in my driveway (no garage) and didn't have any of the "special" removers that they show in the shop manual. But I had no idea how hard they would be to just get off the truck. The one at the other end of the pitman arm for the steering was especially hard to access. I got the two off at the tires with a lot of persuading (read ball pin hammer) but the connecting one and the one at the pittman arm just didn't want to come off and I didn't want to damage the ball joint because you have to reuse it. Anyway, just a word to the wise, I thought I could handle this one, after a VP-44 replacement, everything looks easy, but failed. Now I have to find somebody who will put on an aftermarket kit like this in Raliegh.
 
Lockard,



I did mine two weeks ago. What I did was rent an air hammer and pickle fork set at a local rental place, it made the job much easier. I first tried using a three pound sledge hammer and that didn't budge them at all.
 
Mine were hard to get off too. I ended up putting the castlenut on upside down and threaded it til it was just a bit higher than the first row of threads. I have a brass or bronze mallet from knockoff wheels on an MGB that is heavy and soft. WHACK! a few times and they came out. I also tried smacking the rod just shy of the balljoint. Sometimes works, sometimes not. Good luck!
 
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