I've come full circle- back to stock

[Coolslice]

A lesson for all the guys with new trucks.



Over the last year, I've spent alot of money on my truck trying to improve the looks and performance. This morning I came to the realization that it has been a waste. I wish I would have never changed a thing.



A brief timeline:



1. Bed rail caps- worked loose and scratched the paint

2. Larger wheels/ tires- improper offset- threw mud and rocks on the paint causing chips, caused wobble and shake at speed.

3. Added fender flares to protect paint from tire debris- Flares trapped dirt between themselves and the paint- rubbed the paint off on all points of contact on all sides of the truck in just 4 months. (yet to be repainted :{ )

4. Removed flares- removed bad offset wheels/ tires.

5. Ordered "correct" offset wheels and bigger tires and leveling kit to ensure proper fit.

6. Truck now pulls hard to right and wonders badly on the road. 2 alignments later and following others advice have proven useless, I now have a truck that drives like an old hay wagon.



There you have it, 10 months and several thousands of dollars only to end up worse off then when I started. I have made a ton of mistakes and it has cost me dearly, I will be lucky to recover a small fraction of the total cost by selling off all of these parts now. I just want others to "think", unlike me, before you go down this same road. To each his own, but be careful.

 

[klenger]

I like stock. The only mods I made to mine were functional for towing my 5er, the Line-X bed liner, and nerf bars.

 

[VStahl]

Good explanation of why not to make changes to a stock vehicle. But if everyone takes your advice you are going to have a difficult time recovering part of your money by selling off the parts, so you are kind of stuck with the saying "darned if you do,,, darned if you don't"!

 

[Coolslice]

Good explanation of why not to make changes to a stock vehicle. But if everyone takes your advice you are going to have a difficult time recovering part of your money by selling off the parts, so you are kind of stuck with the saying "darned if you do,,, darned if you don't"!

Thats a good point, and I thought about that. . You just have to understand what its like to be me, if it involves luck, then I probly shouldn't do it. :-laf

There are plenty of guys out there who have the same things on their trucks and have been very pleased. I don't blame anything other than myself at this point. Everything I bought was of high quality, but either I didn't install or have it installed correctly, or my truck just isn't willing to accept such things. :-laf With me, its ALWAYS darned if I do.

 

[CoastyAV8R]

Over the years, I have learned many of the same lessons as you. Slap on a set of big tires only to discover I hated driving any longer than an hour with them on because of the noise and hard to keep balanced. Lift kit installed and the truck road like a tank and 3 alignments later, it still pulled. There are a few things I usually do to a truck now, but they are usually aimed towards reliability and creature comfort.



My wife did stick one of those yellow smiley face styrofoam balls on my antenna after extensive wind tunnel testing proved it would not hinder performance nor void my warranty...

 

[red-rider]

Coolslice,

It's the school of hard knocks, that’s the way I've always learned, unfortunately I've learned alot of things with my beater toyota and regular gas dodge what not to do on my CTD. No suspension work or oversized tires will be going on this puppy, I stopped with everything on my signature and I’m done. Things that could be easily replaced if I have to sell to someone who wants it back to stock. I still consider my truck stock though.



I’m just thinking it probably just wasn’t installed correctly.



Sucks about your dilemma, been there done that though.

 

[Jumbo Jet]

Someone is always trying to screw with the economy. Just think of all the jobs you help maintain by buying those parts.



I do my part to keep the economy moving upward. But I do like to keep some things stock - suspension - wheels - tires.



My bed rail caps haven't come off yet, but have protected the paint job. As well as the Rhino liner, the MPC grille guard, the nerf bars, etc.



I'm installing Firestone Ride Rites this weekend. But they are functional for the campers I haul.

 

[Matt400]

That just stinks! I hate it when that happens.

1. Bed rail caps- worked loose and scratched the paint

How about a spray in bed liner that goes over the rail and covers the scratches? Costs even more but then your done.

2. Larger wheels/ tires- improper offset- threw mud and rocks on the paint causing chips, caused wobble and shake at speed.

3. Added fender flares to protect paint from tire debris- Flares trapped dirt between themselves and the paint- rubbed the paint off on all points of contact on all sides of the truck in just 4 months. (yet to be repainted :{ )

4. Removed flares- removed bad offset wheels/ tires.

5. Ordered "correct" offset wheels and bigger tires and leveling kit to ensure proper fit.

So we can learn from your experiances. . what brand of flares did you use?

What size and offset were the wheels and what did you replace them with?

6. Truck now pulls hard to right and wonders badly on the road. 2 alignments later and following others advice have proven useless, I now have a truck that drives like an old hay wagon.

Thats really a simple fix, you just need a better shop to get it nailed down. Your wander most likely is a result from negative caster that was created when the level kit was added. Do you have a print out of the alignment specs? I would be interested to know what the caster is.



If you don't need the lift you can pull out the level kit AND the rear lift blocks which will get you more level while increasing caster and fixing the wander.



As for the pull, we usually find its tires and confirm it by putting the right hand tires on the left side and the lefts over to the right then take it for a drive. If it still pulls (to the same side) then you are a candidate for a special offset ball joint and the alignment measurements would confirm this.



Thanks a bunch for sharing because your experience is shared by others I am sure and we can all learn from it.

 

[Coolslice]

So we can learn from your experiances. . what brand of flares did you use?

What size and offset were the wheels and what did you replace them with?

I was kind of apprehensive about mentioning brand names because I want to put the blame on myself, I don't want to dish any dirt on these well respected companies. Just so everyone knows, I hold myself responsible, not the manufacturers of these products.



The flares were the Bushwacker Pocket style--- totally ruined the paint in a very short time. I bought them to PROTECT the paint ironically.



My first set of wheels were 18x9 Diamo 8 karat wheels, with 325-60-18 Nitto terra grapplers. I'm unsure of the exact offset, but they did stick out about 1 1/2" to 2". I replaced them with the KORE/ Weld wheels and the Toyo MT 35" tires. I also added the KORE leveling kit. The main mistake I made here was not understanding what 35" tires would do to my final drive ratio (hope thats the right term) with 3. 73 gears and the 48re. Its a combination that doesn't work well together to put it mildly. It took me all of about 100 miles to figure that out, but by then it was too late. The leveling kit has had a negative effect on my truck that I have not been able to correct. As far as I know, I'm the only person who has not had only the best of luck with this product... Bottom line, I wasted $4100 by going this route when a little extra knowledge and research would have told me not to in the beginning.

 

[Crunch]

A lesson for all the guys with new trucks.



Over the last year, I've spent alot of money on my truck trying to improve the looks and performance. This morning I came to the realization that it has been a waste. I wish I would have never changed a thing.

Welcome home, prodigal son! Yea, verily we shall slaughter the fatted calf for a feast, put a ring on your finger and clothe you in our best garments...

 

[MMead]

Thanks for the reality check Coolslice. I've been thinking about some of the same products you used and if it can go wrong, it would go wrong for me also.

 

[Matt400]

Thanks for sharing, I too have 48re and 3. 73's and would like to hold diameter to 33" for good towing. Even unloaded, 35's would mean coming out of lock up in OD on the mountain highway I drive which would hurt mpg no doubt. This was a good post- thanks again.

 

[JCleary]

I was kind of apprehensive about mentioning brand names because I want to put the blame on myself, I don't want to dish any dirt on these well respected companies. Just so everyone knows, I hold myself responsible, not the manufacturers of these products.



The flares were the Bushwacker Pocket style--- totally ruined the paint in a very short time. I bought them to PROTECT the paint ironically.



My first set of wheels were 18x9 Diamo 8 karat wheels, with 325-60-18 Nitto terra grapplers. I'm unsure of the exact offset, but they did stick out about 1 1/2" to 2". I replaced them with the KORE/ Weld wheels and the Toyo MT 35" tires. I also added the KORE leveling kit. The main mistake I made here was not understanding what 35" tires would do to my final drive ratio (hope thats the right term) with 3. 73 gears and the 48re. Its a combination that doesn't work well together to put it mildly. It took me all of about 100 miles to figure that out, but by then it was too late. The leveling kit has had a negative effect on my truck that I have not been able to correct. As far as I know, I'm the only person who has not had only the best of luck with this product... Bottom line, I wasted $4100 by going this route when a little extra knowledge and research would have told me not to in the beginning.

But some 33's would look sweet on those 18's!!!



If you max out your caster the truck should center itself very well, and you shouldn't have any death wobble issues. If your toe is set properly for tire wear and your truck still pulls to the right, you'll need to get an offset ball joint installed to give you some caster differential. Preferably about 1 degree or so. That should do the trick.



Swift Dodge in Sacramento, CA, has it figured out. They'll be able to give you the fix even if you're not in the area 916. 920. 0110

I spoke with Jim x. 122 who is very knowledgeable.



My paint *is* getting beaten up by the tires, but I drive a lot on dirt. I should have covered my lower panels with clear plastic, but oh well.



If I had to purchase my truck again, I'd go with the 48re with 4. 10's. I think that's the ultimate combo right now (once you upgrade to a DTT, SunCoast, ATS, etc. )



I'm impressed by what a properly equipped 48re can handle!

 

[Coolslice]

But some 33's would look sweet on those 18's!!!



If you max out your caster the truck should center itself very well, and you shouldn't have any death wobble issues. If your toe is set properly for tire wear and your truck still pulls to the right, you'll need to get an offset ball joint installed to give you some caster differential. Preferably about 1 degree or so. That should do the trick.



Swift Dodge in Sacramento, CA, has it figured out. They'll be able to give you the fix even if you're not in the area 916. 920. 0110

I spoke with Jim x. 122 who is very knowledgeable.



My paint *is* getting beaten up by the tires, but I drive a lot on dirt. I should have covered my lower panels with clear plastic, but oh well.



If I had to purchase my truck again, I'd go with the 48re with 4. 10's. I think that's the ultimate combo right now (once you upgrade to a DTT, SunCoast, ATS, etc. )



I'm impressed by what a properly equipped 48re can handle!

I gave up on finding a decent 33" tire, and thats part of the reason I went with the Toyos. I'd feel guilty if I were to buy another set of tires, which would be my 3rd set in less than 7 months and thus prolonging the saga.



It's amazing what you find out after you think you have researched something to death. Before I bought my truck, I was told that 3. 73 were the way to go unless I were going to be towing large loads. Now I have people (not on this thread) telling me that I screwed up getting the 3. 73 and I should have got the 4. 10s for better mileage?? Now I hear of this offset ball joint?? I never heard of that being a possibility until now. . It just seems like one thing leads to another. :-laf

 

[wneubauer]

I assume the styrofoam ball was the DC dealer recommended part??

 

[roverhybrids]

I feel so bad for you Coolslice!
So bad in fact that I'll give you my awsome factory chrome rims and cadillac smooth Michelin tires in exchange for your Kore wheels/Toyo's.
Since I'm feeling so generous I'll even swap out the KORE leveling kit and exchange it for my factory springs and shocks. Again NO CHARGE to you!!! Just and even swap!
I don't think you'll find a better deal anywhere!!!

 

[Po' Riggity]

Mine will more than likely stay stock, with the exception of some bigger tires and wheels, and bedliner...

Scott

 

[bchesley]

I have to say that I agree with everybody. I mean that when I get a new vehicle I always promise the wife no mods :-laf . I usually make it a year and then here we go again. This time I am in the same boat. Spent a bunch of of money, have a rougher ride, a taller truck that is harder to get into, lound exhaust, but I also have one bad looking truck. My hat is off to those who can fight the temptation!!! I have to go and get a good nights sleep, I have an appointment with relentless diesel in Willis Texas tomorrow for my DTT trans



Brad

 

[Yo Hoot]

I'm not so convinced that pure stock is the only way. A good well done setup will treat you well. In moderation.

 

[DocDetonancour]

Haven't made any performance mods, but sure think my truck looks a whole lot better than stock. Everyone that sees it agrees. With the Rhino and bed caps there is at least a small part of the paint that doesn't show the chips. I agree I wouldn't want higher gears than the 373. Doc