Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) I've had enough...the truck is going

[Hummin Cummins]

After a road trip down south, more transmission troubles.

Let me recap things for you...

March... ..... no lockup... ... go to dealer they replace lockup solenoid

April... ... ... . go to Talladega... ... ... lose t/c completely... . fixed it on the road, had to go with stock replacement.

May... ... no lockup again on way down to TN..... drove down and back without lockup. No temperature troubles at all, only pulling an empty trailer.

Get home and get in truck today, it wont go and is buzzing like crazy. Got out the service manual and read. Drained fluid and replaced filter. (no junk in the pan at all) Fluid smelled burned. Put it back togther and it goes. (still no lockup) When I put it in drive i can feel it want to move, then a second later it surges hard like it shifted ( thats while sitting still with foot on the brake)



I am done with this truck. I love my cummins but 3 times in 3 months for a transmission is nutz.



I've got my eye on a ex cab 5 sp. (too bad its a long connected ex. cab long bed ) I think it will fit in the garage though.



Sorry, about the long post, I had to vent. This is getting sickening.

 

[Mad Bomber]

transmission?

Sorry to hear of transmission trouble. I think you might want to see someone like D. T. T. or B-D they deal with the transmission to hold the engine. They are big money but they WILL stay together and not fall apart like the stock transmission. Eric

 

[Joe G.]

I think you have a pressure problem. Mine did that as a result of a shift kit fiasco. If nobody checked the pressure and just changed parts you would get the experiences you had. After the fiasco I got DTT stuff and it's been ok ever since.

 

[redram]

Sorry to rant alittle here but looking at your signature, you've got 132k on a transmission. If you have not spent any maintenance time and funds on your automatic, it's time.



Okay, you've had 3 problems in 3 months but what did you do before to make sure you didn't have a problem on the road?

you had to know that these autos are the weak link?



Have you had the truck since new? If so, 8 years and no problems now it's time to pay the piper.

If you bought the truck new, what have you done to make sure you had a good transmission?



Don't think it's going to be different with other trucks - I do agree with your decision to go with a manual trans - 11 years and two trucks only had problems with the 89 (Hyd clutch line and a OE faulty disc cover coming loose).



Hope your "luck" gets better as you take proactive steps to correct the problems with your truck.

 

[lpearson]

Newer Truck?

Just a thought. When you go to sell a truck that has problems, and especially a trany or engine problem. You almost always lose "tons" of money and just give them away.



Then when you go to buy another used truck, and I think all of us here would agree it's hard to find a good used truck for a reasonable price, you pay a fair amount for the truck, then title tax and plates; more thousands lost.



I usually count on another thousand or so to fix things, because usually when someone sells their truck it's because something is wrong with it or is going to be wrong.



Anyway, when one considers the 1000. 00's of dollars lost, it may be better to replace your "worn out transmission" with a "bullet proof" one that will last 300,000 to 500,000 miles (depending on use of course).



95 was maybe the best year for these trucks and your's doesn't really have that many miles on it for what it's capable of, I know this transmission problem is a real "pain", but maybe if you fix it you'll love your truck again and be money ahead.



Just a thought.



Regards,

Lowell

 

[Hummin Cummins]

Now that I have cooled down, redram, in a way I see your point. But with fluid and filter changes every 12000mi, and a month ago when the installer put in the t/c he checked everything else out and said all was well. Why all of a sudden does this just happen? What makes me angry is there was no warning. It didnt gradually get worse, it just went all at once. With the new t/c and solenoid, it drove like a dream. It was the best it had been since I bought it. Maybe a piece of clutch material is hanging somewhere.



lpearson. With about 4800 difference for the other truck i can get an ex. cab. 5 speed. I would be looking at 4000 for a good complete transmission. Thats where the decision gets difficult. The mileage on the trucks is the same. The other truck is a 1 owner where I am the second owner on mine. The big reason I am leaning that way is that with 4 of us in the family, we we go camping it sure would lessen the crampedness. And now its click it or ticket. I dont think the fuzz would like to see 4 in a reg cab truck.



Joe. One other thing I forgot to mention is that 3 times since the solenoid was put in the truck would randomly turn the od off running down the highway. The od off light would come on and I would hit the button and all would be well again. You think one of those transmission flush things that they do would help?

 

[fortunate1]

That last thing sounds like the "overdrive ghost", where the OD-off button & light would just come on by themselves. This has happened 2 or 3 times to me. Just push in the button again and things went back to normal in OD.



If I were to buy a 2003, though, it would definitely be a 6-speed manual. No doubts, no question, end of discussion. My auto has been fine for quite a while, but you know that a LOT of power is just spinning ATF inside there instead of turning the wheels. BTW, if you change the ATF regularly and drive semi-sanely these trannies will last a long time. I've also added a DTT valve body, more coolers and a Mag Hytec DD pan; that makes the ATF last even longer.

 

[Joe G.]

I think the OD is just another symptom of low pressure. You have quite a few miles on it so just normal wear will cause a drop in pressure. When it get low enuff it tends to snow ball so that it gets worse fast. Anyway, before throwing anymore money at it you should get the pressures checked. Especially the line pressure. Clutch wear, pump bushing wear, and other normal wear will cause pressure drop.



When I messed up my transmission during the shift kit fiasco I had very low pressure. It acted the same way as yours does. I got a heavy duty overhaul kit from TST and put that in. When I got my VB and TC from DTT a lip seal and pump bushing were included. This was before DTT started labeling their TC with percentages. And before developement of some of the later stuff. Many miles ago. It's still working fine.



The only things that are electronic on the 47RH are the OD and TCC lockup. The other shifting is hydraulic control and very sensitive to pressures.

 

[Briar Hopper]

The manuals have their share of problems, I've repaired far more 5 speeds, than I have automatics, and that's quite a few. I've never in my life seen so many creative ways for the overdrive section on a fiver to fail. No two of my 5th gear repairs on customers' trucks, or my own, have been the same!!!!

The Fords and Chevvies are not immune to transmission disease , either...

I really believe an automatic, built right, and adjusted right, can outlast a manual(I've seen it on several trucks, most notably a DTT-built one with over 150K) . Not to mention the fact that if I was lucky enough to have a 12 valve, I dern sure wouldn't be trading it in on a 24 !!!! JMO, for whatever it's worth.....

I sympathize with your feelings, though, Hummin Cummins, seems like I spend more on repairs than on fun stuff, myself. I feel it's worth it though, as these are the easiest vehicles in the world to repair, and I got tired of trading off every time a problem cropped up on whatever I was driving at the time.

 

[Hummin Cummins]

Joe. I'm going to change fluid again tomorrow (I get free LE oil) and do a line pressure check. I have numbers from before to go off of.



Briar. The truck I may trade on is a 12 valve. Its a 96. By the way, that was me that called you on Wednesday. Not sure who I spoke with. Was coming into Charleston WV on a cell phone. Hard to keep cell service in the hills of WV. I was going to stop in on the way home and have you look at the problem but the wife got out the paperwork at home and the solenoid is under warranty from the dealer so its back to them on Wednesday.



How bout that crash on I-68 outside Cumberland MD. I was just through there the day before. HOLY FOG BATMAN

 

[Blakers]

Originally posted by Hummin Cummins

I would be looking at 4000 for a good complete transmission.

I paid $2550 plus shipping for my completely rebuilt Goerend Brothers transmission with triple disc converter. It functioned flawlessly and could not be slipped with my engine. I'm very happy with it and with Dave's help and service.



Good luck,

Blake

 

[Hummin Cummins]

Blake

No kidding? That may change my perspective a little. I have priced complete *** and *** trannys and was about floored. Not to mention the warranty Goerend has. I dont need something to hold a bazillion HP just enough to tow my camper around without worrying about bein stranded. Did you get the complete transmission and do a swap or was it a kit with a local rebuild shop?

 

[Blakers]

I got the whole rebuilt transmission shipped in a box to me and I put it in. Shipping was about $150 from Iowa. Then I sent them the old transmission.



The Goerend transmission is completely rebuilt with beefed up stuff throughout and the triple disc torque converter. I think Dave said it will hold up to over 400 hp with no problem. If you want more power, I think he said he could make it better yet.



I changed mine all by myself - with a little help from my dad on the heavy parts. I didn't have a transmission jack - just used a floor jack with some blocks on top. Not too bad. Transfer case was heavy and awkward.



Blake

 

[Blakers]

Hummin Cummins,



If you have a good 12 valve truck that you like, I would keep it. Good older trucks like that are hard to find and harder to replace. You never know what you are getting when you buy someone else's truck. You might get a truck someone smoked in for years or let their dog ride on the seat. Plus, for a good 12 valve you're gonna pay over $14,000 at the least.



My 95 was like new from one end to the other - both mechanically and cosmetically - no rust whatsoever and ran much better than new. I planned to keep it for years to come. When I wrecked it last month (see http://little-mountain.com/ramwreck/ramwreck.html ) I had to replace it right away as I needed something very reliable to drive to work in all weather - I drive 100 miles round trip a day. I thought about getting another 12 valve, but the prices are high and you never know their history. Then the 24 valvers are priced 2/3 of what a new one costs - and you still don't know their history, and the 24 valves have a bad reputation. So I decided to go with a new one with what I wanted on it. I'm very happy with it, but would be just as happy with my 95 back.



Good luck in what you decide. I'm tired and not making good sentence structure - haha

 

[Hummin Cummins]

Blake

Sorry about your truck. Funny thing is, that yours was the same color as the 96 that I am looking at. Supposedly, the previous owner put 1300. 00 into the front end parts and has no visible body damage. Oil was changed on schedule. It is in Albany, NY. I took that same chance when I bought the truck I have now, but I knew it was not well maintained. I still need rotors and a control arm. I sampled the oil immediately after buying the truck and it came back fine. I got lucky only paying 10,500 for the truck I have now but it was not exactly what I wanted. And of course the wife doesnt make this decision any easier. I always discuss big $ things over with her and she always says " do what you think is best ". Maybe a 2003 will be on order then. They want 12800 for the 96 ex cab and said 8000 for mine sight unseen. Mileage difference is only 6000 miles and the previous owner traded it for a new powersmoke.

 

[1dslram]

Hummin:

No matter what automaitc truck you get it will need a trans, You took your truck to the dealer, my local dealer can't even adjust the TPS properlly as it was further off after I paid $70. 00 to adjust it. If I was you I would get an opinion from a trans shop that installs ATS, DTT, Gorend or Suncoast transmissions they will know what they are doing. I burned up a stock converter in just over 1,000 miles at only 250 HP and towing my 12,000# 5er. only about 200 miles.

Bruce

 

[Pit Bull]

Hummin, get the new truck you need the room anyway. If the 5 speed ever lets go of 5th gear there is a permanent fix and it does not cost what the auto does to keep going. Good luck.

 

[Blakers]

Originally posted by Hummin Cummins

Funny thing is, that yours was the same color as the 96 that I am looking at.

Yea I really like that color! That's why I bought a new silver one - my plan is to paint the top and bottom the same blue as the old one.



That 95 was so impressive I got comments all the time. People would gawk at it in parking lots, people would gawk when I passed them on the freeway and truckers would comment about it on the CB.



The new truck is just too plain right now to attract much attention.

 

[Hummin Cummins]

Well, I rechecked the TPS today and its all good. Did a line pressure test and got this:



Drive at idle = 65psi



Light to moderate throttle (normal takeoff from a stop) it builds to 90psi and holds through each shift



WOT = 120 psi in OD unlocked



I'm begining to think that t/c clutch material contaminated the rest of the transmission. For the filter to plug up in a months time. From what I have read here, that if the t/c clutch goes usually it takes the rest with it later.



If this other truck is not a POS, I think I'll go for it. I could use the extra room, I'd gain a year, and a few horsepower in the process. Not to mention with the ex. cab I wont need the fiberglass cap anymore so I can put my stacks back on

 

[Joe G.]

With those line pressures you are probably not in too bad a condition after all. You might try cleaning the valve body. The only cost for that is a pan gasket. Just keep the pieces organized so you can put them all back together correctly. The description to service the valve body starts on page 21 - 182 in your service manual. The only thing different from the service manual instructions on removing the valve body is do NOT remove the park rod from the transmission. Remove the E-clip and push the park rod out of the lever on the valve body before removing valve body. I hope the engineer that invented the part rod has a severe case of hemorrhoids.