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J&J Millenium Running Boards

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KHogan:



You're welcome. Please be sure to let me know how the instructions work out. I spent enough time on them that it's worthwhile to go back and correct any mistakes or anything that's confusing. I'm also going to post another reply offering them to any TDR members interested.
 
Fellow members:



I installed a set of J&J "Classic" stainless steel running boards on my 2003 QC LWB SRW in Dec. 2003. At the time I had rudimentary instructions for the front boards and NO instructions for the rear "bed boards. " I've just finished writing a complete set of installation instructions for both, with pictures and some drawings. I'll send them via e-mail to anyone who is installing a set of J&J boards.



HOWEVER, the instructions are 16 pages/4,318 KB and far too long to post on the TDR website. If you'll PM me with your e-mail address, I'll send them to you. No "idle curious," please -- I have an old fashioned SLOW computer and transmission time is about 20 minutes.
 
Unless they have changed hardware, the installation uses plated steel bolts and nuts. They started to corrode pretty quickly so I ran to the hardware store and bought stainless steel fasteners, replacing all the original stuff.



Casey
 
No, it's the same crappy (heavy) spray-painted steel and plain steel fastners. . although the hardware is self-locking. For the money they charge, the hardware should be top-shelf as well... . it isn't.
 
I finally got the rear boards on today. It took about four hours with my buddy's help. The rear brackets had to be "modified" and two of the "long" straight horizontal supports had to be cut shorter and re-slotted. They went on though, tight and as straight as humanly possible. After giving up one and a half weekends worth of prime riding time/weather on my Harley away , I'd say it's worth paying the J&J dealer to put 'em on. They do look sweet though. I have yet to see another truck with these on 'em. The guy who helped me has Westin chrome S/S nerfs on his '03 CTD, and when we put the boards on, he was impressed (with the looks only: his nerfs took less than an hour to install with air tools, LOL!). Kudos again to JW Chessell for all his help. It appears the tapered tube boards are even harder to put on than the millenium's. I'll try and post pics when the truck is clean.
 
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KHogan:



Please send me the details of your installation this past weekend so I can update the instructions -- send them to my e-mail address. Thx.
 
JWChessell:



As soon as I can get under there and take pics, I'll write something up. It actually wasn't as invoved as the rear boards you have. We cut all horizontal supports (i. e, the one's attached directly to the boards) to the same length. That is to say, the two "long" supports were trimmed and slotted to match the two "short" supports via a plasma cutter. The rear supports (i. e. , those attached to the fender brace at the rear wheel front-most wheelwell opening) were bent in a vice to a more exagerated "z" shape and the flat square plate that bolts between the rear board support and the fender/fender strut were "modified" to also conform to an "s' or "z" shape. That's it. The horizontal supports were jockied and attached to the corresponding bed floor rail extrusions like the lousy instructions said. Simple when you have help that's a good mechanic, a good fabricator, and a good mech. engineer, LOL! Lining them up so they're straight, level, and even is an exercise in frustration and requires two people, however. All in all, a 4 to 4 1/2 hour job with two mechanics and a fully-equipped air-conditioned shop.
 
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