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Jeep Grand Cherokee + Cummins (3.9L) ISBe + Allison 1000-Series = :)

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I don't blame you for running 4x2 for a while to get the bugs out, but then you have the cost of two driveshafts, one for 4x2 and then another when you get the t-case. A 241 from a Ram should hold up well.



RE is Rubicon Express. IMHO they are simply the best source for Jeep parts when you are lifting anything made by Jeep. You might look into air shocks instead of bags, consderably cheaper and virtually universal application, but the ride suffers.



Da 44's are optional on most TJ's, certain models like the Rubi came with them standard. I belive all LJ's (the Unlimited) have the 44. There were quite a fe under XJ Cherokee's with the trailer tow package, but then you have to weld on the correct spring perches where as TJ/LJ and ZJ are all direct bolt in.



The other thing I thought of was that much weight in the front of a unibody, you may want to stiffen it up some. I have only seen this done through custom fabricating as not to many people offer stuff for ZJ and I am not aware of anyone making kits to stiffen the unibody. I know w guy who is running 33's and 3/4 ton axles with the 5. 2 in a ZJ. He has cut and welded plates to the frame channels on the unibody structure to stiffen it up some.
 
If I could find a NP-241DLD (or HD... doesn't matter to me) out of an NV-5600 truck, I'd buy it and do it all at once. So far, I can't put my grubby mitts on one... and I'm not positive if it'll bolt up or what I have to do to the Allison other than swap out the extension housing.



Thanks for the info on Rubicon Express - I'll keep them in mind. Ride quality will be pretty important. My '94 rides like crap, so anything would be an improvement over that thing. :) I looked at their online catalog and I didn't see any OEM height springs with increased rates... just lift springs (that probably have increased rates... ).



Cool - I'll also keep that in mind about the Dana 44's. I definitely want a bolt-up deal. I can weld fairly well, but I don't want to goof up a perfectly good axle. My rear Dana 35 has disc brakes, so I'll want to keep those as well.



Like I said before, I don't plan on taking this thing offroad... so I'm planning on running it for a while and see how it works out - and fix what breaks. :-laf



Thanks,



Matt
 
if you need something welded matt just call, will weld for beer! :-laf are you going to have this done for IRP for the repower show and shine?



The Fat Kid

Andy
 
TurboTweaker said:
if you need something welded matt just call, will weld for beer! :-laf are you going to have this done for IRP for the repower show and shine?



The Fat Kid

Andy



I'll just ride with The Fat Kid and drink beer and give advise!



Josh
 
HoleshotHolset said:
If I could find a NP-241DLD (or HD... doesn't matter to me) out of an NV-5600 truck, I'd buy it and do it all at once. So far, I can't put my grubby mitts on one... and I'm not positive if it'll bolt up or what I have to do to the Allison other than swap out the extension housing.







Thanks,



Matt
Wow! There is 241 in my local paper for $150. Want me to call & see if it is from a stick? DK.
 
Matt, I have one as well... I think these are worth alittle more than 150 bucks though. they go for 500-700 at the junk yard, I have a hard time believing that t-case is in good condition if they are letting it go for that cheap. PM me if you are interesting in the one I got (its a 241DLD out of a 97 CTD with a NV4500 though. )
 
Andy said:
are you going to have this done for IRP for the repower show and shine?



Maybe... :)



DKayser said:
There is 241 in my local paper for $150. Want me to call & see if it is from a stick?



Heck yeah - it's worth a shot. Shipping might run more than the t-case, though. haha



Alphacowboy said:
PM me if you are interesting in the one I got



I still have to find out the EXACT NP-241 model t-case I need to bolt up to my LCT 1000... I'll know more once I get it in the garage, measure the output shaft and count the splines. The pallet was supposed to arrive today, but it got delayed a bit and will be here (fingers crossed... ) on Monday.



Thanks for your help, guys. If any of you see TDR member Brayden Fleece - tell him to post on the TDR the EXACT NP-241 I need for this swap. :-laf



Matt
 
Matt,



The input and planetary gears on NP-241 (and 231 for that matter) are interchangeable between different 231 and 241 transfer cases (with the exception of a gear pitch change somewhere around 1997). Basically you can take the input gear out of whatever 231 or 241 you need, and put it into whatever 231 or 241 you have and want to use for other consideration, like space or front output side. There are many versions of the 231 and 241 out there from Chevy, Jeep, and Dodge. The main differences in a 231J, a 231D and a 231c are the side on which the fron output is located. There are also some slight "clocking" differences for the case, but not too major.



Because space is limited in your application, I would recommend that what ever case you go with (most likey a 231J or a 241DLD) you add a slip yoke eliminator kit to the case. This will convert the rear output slip yoke into a fixed yoke, and allow many more choices for an output u-joint. This will also shorten the overall length of the traansfer case.



The following link shows a thread detailing the upgrades I made to the 231J in my cherokee. It will give you a good idea of what the internals look like, and some differences between a 241 and a 231. It is possible to build the 2wd portion of a 231 to be as strong (other than the strength of the case itself) as a 241. This is not true for the front output, but that may not be a problem for you.



http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=351184



I would be more than happy to talk you through any of this or answer any questions you have about these t-cases. PM me and I'll send you a phone number.

Mark
 
Mark:



WOW - GREAT info, man. Thank you!



I'll send you a PM and post the results of our discussion here for others to learn about how to mate an Allison LCT 1000 to anything but a GM NVG t-case. :cool:



Matt
 
Hey Matt, there is a 98 Durango listed locally, had a minor engine fire, but the entire thing survived but the engine and hood... the rest of it is in MINT condition, pictures I have seen make it look new. My question is this. how hard would it be to attempt this... . and would I be crazy to try and drop my 12v in a durango? I have the 12 (needs work) but could I make it fit? Its a 4x4 durango, and if I had to do a body lift, no biggy, as I could do that on a durango. Just thinking this might not be a bad deal If I could get the durango really cheap, I know someone with a hood anyway. I have the wire harness, engine, 5spd transmission (which I would rather have an auto if I did this) t-case, I/C, radiator, turbo, you name it, I got it (Except money :-laf ). but the guy wants 3500 for the durango, but I am sure that could be negotiated down.



tell me what ya think man, (sorry, didnt mean to hi-jack your post)



-Matt
 
Alphacowboy said:
Hey Matt, there is a 98 Durango listed locally, had a minor engine fire,



but the guy wants 3500 for the durango, but I am sure that could be negotiated down.



tell me what ya think man, (sorry, didnt mean to hi-jack your post)



-Matt



It would be identical to rewpowering a dakota, the 4bt's will fit with no problem, I've seen a few recently. The 5. 9 engine is going to be very heavy and long though, Check out banks diesel dakota pics I posted up in the other thread about a dakota, they cut just about all the firewall out to fit that engine in. It looked "stock" when finished from the exterior, but they had a complete race shop behind them to fabricate the firewall and related mounts etc.

How about putting the 12 valve up for sale and using that to fund a 4bt purchase?... .
 
DKarvwnaris said:
It would be identical to rewpowering a dakota, the 4bt's will fit with no problem, I've seen a few recently. The 5. 9 engine is going to be very heavy and long though, Check out banks diesel dakota pics I posted up in the other thread about a dakota, they cut just about all the firewall out to fit that engine in. It looked "stock" when finished from the exterior, but they had a complete race shop behind them to fabricate the firewall and related mounts etc.

How about putting the 12 valve up for sale and using that to fund a 4bt purchase?... .



Look for a post on the little blue demon. The Garmon boys made a 6bt fit in a Dakota.



I belive they ran with no intercooler on that one.



It's been a few years...



Josh
 
The Eagle has landed...

The engine/transmission/wiring/etc. arrived yesterday! :cool:



The meatheads at the salvage yard did a fabulous job strapping the engine to the pallet - notice how it is nearly off the pallet. :rolleyes: (No real harm done... )



First impressions - this engine is a monument to how they ought to build all of 'em. It's stout 6 ways to Sunday. The Allison automatic is absolutely enormous. I'll get some side-by-side shots comparing it to the 42RE... it's hilarious! :-laf The yoke on the back of the LCT-1000 is bigger than the biggest u-joint on my '94 Dodge 2500. :cool: The driveshaft shop is going to look at me funny when I tell them to weld a yoke on one end of the shaft and the other to mate to the little Jeep yoke. :-laf



Here are the pics...

(I'll get some better pics soon - I took these yesterday and was trying to rush to get the rental truck back... )



Matt
 
Over the past few days, I've been digging into the two boxes of wiring and tracking down a TCM for the Allison (I found one - Thanks, AL! - "JakeGMCHD" on the TDR).



About the only pictures I have are of the ECM and transmission data plate. The ECM has what is known as a 'cooler plate' bolted to it. You're supposed to plumb up fuel lines to this to keep it cool. (yes, the one fitting is broken) It's pretty neat - I'm learning a lot.



Look at all the pins on this ECM - it's SICK! :cool: I'm going to start looking for a Cummins service manual with wiring diagrams...



Later,



Matt
 
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The picture on the bottom right..... is that the broken fitting your talking about?





If it is, that's removable. They have a funny clip on them. Some you pull some you push, but it should release.



Josh
 
Josh: I left the fitting on there so that folks could check it out. I'm quite a ways away from flowing fuel through anything, so I won't be removing that fitting anytime soon.



Thanks,



Matt
 
You had mentioned it was "broken" I just thought I'd let you know it wasn't "broken" just the junkyard removal of... . "They won't need this anymore... . snip"



Josh
 
Thanks, Josh. In all honesty, the salvage yard did a pretty good job of extracting the parts from the donor truck. I've seen better work and MUCH worse... I think I lucked out pretty well.



No real updates on the project to speak of... been busy with other things.



Matt
 
No new pics, but I have some updated specs on the Allison LCT-1000...



The transmission I have definitely does have 'park'. :cool:

The output shaft of the transmission is 1-3/4" in diameter and has 34-splines! :eek: Everything about that thing is beyond beefy - almost makes the 47RH/RE look like toys. I'll try to get some side-by-side comparison pics.



I've been cleaning up a lot of stuff (engine/transmission/Jeep/garage/etc. ) and will start test fitting the engine in a week or so. After I get my FASS, I'll probably try to fire it off on the engine stand...



Matt
 
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