Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Joe Donnelly, or any other RKI's

[The patriot]

Ok, I'm going to tab my KDP. I've read that Joe D says to loctite the cam retainer bolts, and oil pump bolts.

What loctite should be used?

I went to the local Pep boys, and asked for loctite 277 (for the front seal). They didnt have a clue as to what I was asking for.

I purchased the red, and green.

Also, I've been seeing that the seal is a PITA to get in the front cover. Can I put this in the freezer for a day prior to installing it? Would this help?

Any other advice is appreciated. I'm trying to get this done this week to take advantage of the good weather.

TIA

Eric

 

[Todd T]

I would use 243 on the oil pump and probably on the cam bolts as well. its removable, medium strength and oil tolerant



277 is high strength, but is for larger bolts and not oil tolerant. 242 might be better suited for the small cover bolts.



Just my opinion though, I learned from a machinist. go figure



Todd

 

[The patriot]

Todd, can you dummy that up a bit.

The ones I have dont have any 3 digit numbers on them.

The green one is item number 29000, and the red is item number 27100.

There's a small chart on the back of the package, but the numbers are all 5 digit numbers.

Also:

When I was getting the gaskets and seal, they told me to use either blue or black silicone. I chose black.

All items I refered to are Permatex brand.

TIA

Eric

 

[Todd T]

not being a loctite rep or expert i can only assume 29000 is the 290 product, which is high strength "wicking compound" threadlocker.



27100 would be 271 is a high strength adhesive?? i think??? AKA removable threadlocker.



either of these would work just as well as what was suggested before. aside form using it on the oil pump bolts. I would use a oil tolerant product on those.

 

[jdub]

Saying again, the crank seal is a breeze to put in by using a block of wood a little larger than the seal and popping it in with the chuck of a drill press. Yes- the large end of the clear plastic "tool" goes towards the engine and it will pull out very easily after you replace the gear case cover. I could have sworn that the drawing supplied with the seal kit was backwards and it could never come off the crank that way but it almost fell off in my hand when I touched it for removal.

 

[A Johnson]

I would use the 242 ( blue, med strength) on all the bolts.

Clean all bolts and holes real well with electrical contact cleaner(expensive but worth it) and compressed air.

I am partial to permatex #2 around the perimeter of the front seal but the loctite products also work well.

As far as an RTV type silicone sealer, there is none better than Cummins Three Bond RTV. (I will fight to the death on this one. )

A Johnson

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I've never seen a problem with cam or oil pump bolts. If they are out, or you worry a lot, use blue medium strength loctite after using solvent and blowing dry the bolts and threaded holes. usually I just check the tightness of these bolts. I remove the 4 out of 5 bolts holding the gear case to the block that are inside the cover. I clean these bolts, holes, and loctite them with blue. With many cam gears, the windows aren't very big and it can be tought to r&r the two bolts behind the cam gear. A deep well 1/4" drive 10 mm socket fits in there better than the 3/8 drive.

Not having 277 handy, I use blue 242 loctite on the perimeter of the crank seal and its hole in the cover.

 

[The patriot]

Oh. I saw here on the board that sometimes they can be pretty loose.

I figured that if I'm taking the cover off, I'll check everything.

I even got the wicking green loctite. I'm going to green loctite the tab, and put the tab retainer over it.

I saw a thread where you spoke about these bolts Joe

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...eadid=51530&highlight=KDP+procedure+questions

so I didnt want to NOT do them since the cover will be off.

Thanks.

Eric

 

[JohnE]

I wish I had one of the Loctite catalogs at home for these questions.



You normally do not have to solvent clean holes before applying Loctite. It will perform very well with moderate amounts of pertroleum residue. You <b>DO</b> have to apply the Loctite to the <b> blind holes</b> and not the bolt threads. It you apply to the bolt threads on a blind hole application, air pressure will blow the threads mostly clean and you really have no thread lock.

<font color=blue>242 blue</font> is the mainstay for &frac14; to &frac34; threads.

<font color=purple>222 purple</font> for &frac14 and under.

I thought <font color=green>290 green</font> was low strength wicking until Todd made me doubt the numbers.

<font color=red>271 red</font> is high strength and requires either impact or heat to break loose.



They recently upgraded the fomulas and I do not remember the new numbers.



If you have more questions email me and I will try to answer your questions.

Been there, done that, Got the Loctite hat... .



diesel on

-John

 

[JRocky]

oil mess solved !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Joe, just got my new issue today #57,,you talk about cleaning the radiator area well i got a sure thing that will end it forever . here we go, the item is a crankcase vent from fleetguard part #50115 it is a whole kit that puts the oil back into the oil pan and still allows the engine to berathe it cost about $250. 00 but it is worth it all day long install is about 2 hrs because you have to drill out a spot near oil pan ,not that bad. I have had mine about 1 yr plus and i am drip and spot free

John Rocchi

Bethlehem Conn

My e mail is -- email address removed --