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Joe Donnelly's modified Sachs clutch installed

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Steve St.Laurent

Staff Alumni
I was down in Ohio this week at Enterprise Engine Performance (Dave Mitchell's shop) with Gene Mohney getting our Joe Donnelly modified Sachs clutches installed (along with a transmission rebuild for Gene and a 5th gear nut fix for me). This clutch HOOKS (mine has a 3700 lb pressure plate and brass pucks) - although it's not for everyone! I have no doubt that this clutch will hold all the power I'm ever going to feed it. You can tell that the stock clutch slips slightly (and this one doesn't) when shifting gears or when going from slight acceleration to slight deceleration (as when convoying in a big group of Cummins Dodges and trying to maintain spacing #ad
). With this clutch there is a slight shudder at those points because there's no slip, with the stock clutch it's smooth. Off the line, if I leave at idle in 2nd gear like I always have there are 2-3 small shudders if you are at a dead stop, if you are rolling at all it's smooth. The pedal pressure is increased over stock but not excessively so. The feel of the clutch takes some getting used to though. It's just like a compound bow where it takes a lot of force at first (about the first inch and a half of travel) and then very little after that. I'm getting used to it now (I have 800 miles on it) and am getting smoother with it. It just takes a little muscle memory learning. IMO it's well worth the trade off's if you need a heavy duty clutch. Some people would not be happy though (my wife probably won't drive the truck any more, not that she drove it much before anyways - some of us may consider that a GOOD thing #ad
). June 9th both Gene and I will be hooking to a pulling sled and will have abuse reports at that time.

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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax, 275hp RV injectors, Joe Donnelly modifed Sachs Clutch, custom ladder bars, SW fuel pressure gauge, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's, (all the common stuff clipped)



[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 02-18-2001). ]
 
Steve, if you don't mind my asking, what was total cost for the Sachs clutch plus installation? I will be going this route later this year, although I'll be looking for a good shop on the left coast, but I would like to get an idea for budget planning purposes.

Many thanks,
Tom


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Get outta the way: The Cummins is Cummin'!

Tom Golden
Godzilla: Patriot Blue 2001 2500 SLT QC 4X4 LWB ETH/DEE, Tow & Camper packages, 3. 54 Ltd. Slip, 4 wheel disc ABS, Isspro EGT/boost gauges, black SmittyBilt nerf bars, K&N RE-0880 & pre-filter, no silencer ring, TDR decal, Jack holiday antenna ball

Upcoming BOMBs: DD Stage 3 injectors, fuel line upgrade, 4" Jardine exhaust, full Psychotty air system

2001 Zinc Yellow SVT Mustang Cobra on order
NRA Life/CRPA/El Dorado #26 F. &A. M. of California

[This message has been edited by TomGolden (edited 02-18-2001). ]
 
Steve, sorry about my ignorance here but, is the Sachs clutch that you had installed the one using the brass pucks? Just wondering.

... signed, an auto. guy always keeping an ear to the ground when it comes to the manuals. #ad


[This message has been edited by John (edited 02-18-2001). ]
 
Tom, I hope you are sitting down for this! My final cost including install was a little over $1800. That was including putting on the mopar 5th gear nut fix (that was a little over $100 of it), a new throwout bearing, flywheel resurface, and modifying the flywheel to take a roller pilot bearing (about $150 of it).

John, yes they were the brass pucks. The organic facings should be more driveable - at a loss of holding power though.

-Steve


[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 02-18-2001). ]
 
I am happy with the way the clutch works. I realized that mine had been slipping for 2 years.
It really tightens the drivetrain up, easy on that go pedal!
It was funny riding with Steve watching him "learn how to drive a stick" I had 2 days on him, so he didn't see my learning period!
After I hammer that Sachs all summer at the pulls, we will find out if it will hold.
I don't think you would want any LESS of a clutch at the 275 and up street level.
gene

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1997 Cummins Dodge 4x4 Bombed & Amsoiled. Amsoil Premiere Direct Jobber, Member of: NRA Business Alliance, GLTDR, WANTED: Wrecked Dodges.
www.awdist.com
 
Well, here ya go guys.
I have been running the Sachs clutch for a while and it is holding fine.
I am at around 375hp and I raced a Honda while pulling my 24' boat, he lost.
I have also have been at WOT while pulling my 5th wheel Avion trailer (13,000lbs) and NO slippage.

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95' 2500 5spd, 2wd reg cab 131,000
TST #4 plate kit, 370 Diamond B injectors, Afc spring kit, Gov. spring kit,TST's fuel pressure adapter and 2 guage pillar mount, SPA EGT/Boost guage. Joe D's Sachs clutch is in.
K&N Re-0880 & Prefilter. Cup Smoothie.
To be installed: MagHytec, 16cm2 Housing from Sportbike(thanks). Royal Purple oil, Finger Touch drain plug.
 
Steve,
Should I look at the 5th gear nut when I pull the clutch? I have an early 99.

This is where I hope to be some day soon (with somebody else's tires) #ad
#ad
Piers you are still my hero...
#ad
 
I really like my brass ETH/DEE Sachs clutch from Joe. As I've stated every time I post about it, there is simply no comparison in terms of quality and heft when compared to the competition. It is worth the extra bucks and anyone who has ever met Joe would have to agree that his engineering talents are second to none. I feel these talents have gone into this clutch.

It's not the smoothest clutch around. But for the life of me I can't figure out why everyone likes the vibration, noise, and smoke and yet expects a silky smooth clutch. I think this clutch fits the personality of these trucks very well - much better than the stock units and reminds me the the big rig units. Besides, once you get used to driving it, engagement acutually smooths out quite well.

Thanks, Joe, I for one am very pleased and can't recommend the Sachs ennough.
 
David, that's hard to say. On both Gene and my trucks (mine has 65,000 miles and Gene's 95,000 I believe) 5th gear was fine. However, other's have lost it. Since my transmission was out anyways it was easy and quick to do it right then before it stripped off the threads and sent them through the transmission. For me it was worth it to not have to worry about it in the future. I figure if it was still good at 65,000 miles with the stock nut now that I have the improved nut on it I don't have to worry about it any more.

Bart, I'm not complaining about the clutch at all - I love it! It is exactly what I was expecting - actually it's better than I expected. I was just letting people know that there are compromises when you get to this level.

-Steve
 
Steve, Thanks for the cost info, I really appreciate it. I remembered a post from a few months back when I first started hearing of this clutch, and I thought the post listed the clutch cost along at something like $1200. So I figured it was going to be close to the $2000 mark. Now that I have a good ballpark figure to shoot for, I can plan my BOMB budget and timeline accurately.

Thanks again,
Tom

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Tom Golden
Godzilla: Patriot Blue 2001 2500 SLT QC 4X4 LWB ETH/DEE, Tow & Camper packages, 3. 54 Ltd. Slip, 4 wheel disc ABS, Isspro EGT/boost gauges, black SmittyBilt nerf bars, K&N RE-0880 & pre-filter, no silencer ring, TDR decal, Jack holiday antenna ball

NRA Life/CRPA/El Dorado #26 F. &A. M. of California
 
Just got mine in last night. Took it for a test drive this morning, got about 10 miles on it. It'll take a little getting used to, but its not bad. That NV4500 is a heavy MF. You'd think on a truck this size, they could make the hole in the floor big enough for the trans, but no, that would be too easy (Thanks, Dodge). Took me a while to get the pressure plate centered to my satisfaction, but it doesn't vibrate, so it was worth it. I wasn't having much luck with the dial caliper method, so I ended up mounting my dial indicator to one of the bellhousing bolt holes. I then started the truck before putting the bellhousing back on. It pretty neat to watch it spin through the hole in the floor. I'm happy so far, and won't have to worry about the clutch when I finally find a trailer for the Blazer. BTW, total cost was about $1217 for the clutch (brass pucks), throw out bearing, pilot bushing, resurfacing the flywheel, and a tube of blue lock tite. I'm keeping my fingers crossed on the fifth gear issue, and will probably do the std trans fix at some point.

Pete

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'97 2500 CC 4X4 5spd Sport
'83 K5 Blazer 350 TBI (ex 6. 2), 39. 5 TSLs, 3" lift, Dana 60/GM 14 blt, Detroits
 
UPS showed up today!
Finally I have a new clutch, now to get it installed!!


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99' SB 4x4 : DDI's, HOT PE, SACHS Clutch(here 2/19 but still in the box),SPA dual gauge, ESPAR, Line-X OTR, Ladder bars, AMSOIL, etc (GPS,Cell,CB,... . )
Green Monster
 
Brass but....

I went with the brass, but I would encourage anyone to really do the homework before making the same decision. I am not talking bad about this clutch, as it does exactly what was advertised and that was to cure my slippage problem.



This clutch has no/none/ZERO slip and is more like an on/off switch than what was OEM'd in the truck. You get a lockup that is unreal and for some (the wife) it is just too much.



Towing a heavy trailer might be a real challenge, especially if you are an infrequent user of said trailer. I've backed my car hauler with this clutch and did not like the fight it gave me.



Running up the gears, one has no idea how much a minor slippage in the OEM clutch adds to the smooth driveline. However when you go to a velcro clutch you suddenly understand that some slip might be ok for some folks.....



Example, when approaching a traffic light, if I allow the truck to brake with the engine AND allow the engine rpm to drop too low, when I finally push in the clutch I hear and feel a god awful driveline vibration. I thought I had an installation issue, but I had a real diesel mechanic test it for me yesteday and he told me the drivetrain is very tight, tighter than most, and that the vibration was all clutch related due to the way it grabs the flywheel with the brass.



Again, I urge shoppers to do their homework and to fully understand all the implications of what they decide upon.



"I am not talking bad about this clutch, as it does exactly what was advertised and that was to cure my slippage problem. "
 
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