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a Friend has a John Deere 3010 or 3020 (cant remember) but it does not go in reverse ,had another guy change the linkage and that didn't work and the guy said will have to split the tractor? does anybody know anything about them?
 
JD

I have had a few of them apart. Is the tractor a powershift or syncrorange? The powershift reverse is hydraulic clutch controlled. There is a possibility the valve is out of adjustment. If not the clutch pac has to be replaced wit a split and transmission gut. The Syncrorange could also be linkage. those 35 year old tractors have been shifted many times. However the shift fork or reverse idler failure is not uncommon on that transmission. That also takes a split. Sorry I couldnot be more help. Unless I would look at it it is hard to say.
 
I'm not sure it has 8 speeds by the steering wheel only one leaver 1,3,rev;2,5,rev;4,7;6,8 on it . i would think you have to split by the trans not the motor am i right? thanks for the reply
 
Given the shift pattern that you wrote, it is a Syncro-range transmission. The SR and the PS trannys both have 8 spds. The PS has 4 reverse gears and the SR (depending when it was built) has 2 or 3 reverse gears. The 10 series has 3, as do some of the early 20 series tractors (boss has one of each- '65 (3) and a '67 (2), both 4020's).



Depending on what needs replaced, you may need to split it at the clutch housing and the rear-end and completely remove the transmission from the tractor.



If the transmission needs seperated from the clutch housing and if the clutch has been around a while, it may be worth splitting it at the motor so you can look at the splines on the transmission and PTO input shafts to see if they are worn to much. Both the motor, clutch housing and transmission have to be seperated to replace the shafts.
 
Yea

What bmoeller said. The syncro range is also prone to linkage adjustment problems. The "gates" on the dash sometimes get so worn it is hard to engage the desired gears. Dissasembly and welding then fileing the gates seems to work OK
 
my buddy had someone else look at it(it wasn't working before )and he changed the shifter and linkage but i think he put in the wrong one, it does not fill in the hole that is in the dash. but my buddy doesn't know anything about mechanics haven't talked to him lately to tell him it looks wrong. he wants me to split it but i have no idea what to look for.
 
Which part do you think is the wrong one, the shift lever?



If it's the lever there are 3 shift levers (that I'm aware of) that were used on the 10 and 20 series. 2 for the SR and 1 for the PS.



For the SR, one comes out and bent to the right, the other is longer, comes out and bent to the right and then bent up so it is about the same height as the steering wheel.



The one for the Powershift is similar to the first one I mentioned, but is a round shaft instead of a rectangular casting. It has been quite awhile since I messed with a PS, so I'm not 100% sure whether it is possible to mix up one for a PS or SR. Don't recall how the linkage is attached to the lever.
 
Thank you very much for trying to help me! i did find out that it is a 3010,the whole linkage on the outside was changed ,the 2 plates with the notches, lever,and one rod to the shaft that goes into the case. i think everything is wrong, the new plates don't fit flush in the cut out of the dash, and the lever hits the steering wheel when trying to put into 6,8 gear. i could take pictures if that would help. but the reverse still didn't work before it was changed but it did have alot of play in it, thanks again for the help



little off the subject, but me and some Buddy's are going to try to get hunting license for illinois this year, we are planning on going somewhere near hardin twp pike county you know any good public hunting place around there
 
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Pictures would help if you could. Deere also had the SR in the 30 series (At least the 4430 had them. They had SR, PS and Quad-Range trannys available).



Pictures of the shifter, and linkage under the dash and on the side of the transmission would be good.



What you may need to do is right down the part numbers on the parts. Some of the parts have the #'s stamped or cast into the metal. If you can get the #'s, go to the Deere dealer to see if they match up. All the info is on the computer and will show if it had been revised or the # had changed. Make sure to right down the serial #, they may need that if there was a split in the S/N when something was changed. It's on a tag on the rear of the tractor below the hydraulic couplers on the right hand side.
 
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As far as the hunting goes, I'm not familar with that area. Pike Co. is about 3 or so hours away from me. I live in Henry Co. Hunting seems to be decent in my area, but I don't do any hunting myself at this point. Stick to clays and other target shooting. Been awhile since I did it last. :( Not much time.
 
Take the serial number of the tractor to a JD dealer . I think [hope ] you will find that the parts guy can give you a lot of info . My local guy has no problem with me asking the mechanics questions on diagnosing a problem. They accept that farmers have to do a lot of work themselves. Good luck!
 
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