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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Just added the GSK.

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) LP install tip

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2002 -vs- 2003 Impressions

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Just slapped in a 3K GSK and can't believe the performance gain,wow! Also adjusted the gov arm to my fuel plate. Makes much more smoke with WOT. I'm ordering a AFC kit and going with a Piers HX-35 turbo this week. Off the line I'm really feeling the G's. So sorry for the rice burners behind me. My EGT's only came up a little. Hopefully it will go back down with better turbo and some better foot to pedal management. All I can say is get the GSK and check your pump gov arm adjustment.



Smoke On!
 
I've got a 3kgsk, AFC spring kit and #11 somewhere in the mail coming from PDR. I can't wait to get them in. I've been waiting and saving for a while to justify bombs, but I think the fever finally struck me. Later
 
Question

My truck will rev freely to 3000 RPM's,(actually about 3150) should I get the 4K kit?

Or would the 3K kit be "that much of an improvement"?

Eric
 
If you go to the 4K you'll need to change out your Exhaust valve springs for heavier ones. Not a problem if your planning on getting an exhaust brake. You'd need to change them anyways. If your not planning on getting a exhaust brake then the 3K should be fine. However, with your Engine already getting 3K RPM you may want to hold off. Try fine tuning your Gov arm and fuel plate. These seem to be the easiest and give you the most bang for your buck. PDR has a Tech bulletin on this procedure.

Good luck.
 
Mine will rev to 3000 as well, but the power band stops at 2600. I'm hoping it will now go all the way to 3k. I thought, but I'm not sure that going with the 4k gsk required 60 lb springs on both intake and exhaust. Someone will chime in I'm sure of that.
 
Good info. I'm having the 3K GSK installed next week also (w/ #10 plate and Stage II's) and am looking forward to the higher rpms. CMorrow - what fuel plate do you have? Running stock right now I can only go to 2300-2400 rpm. Since the previous owner put in a Pac Brake and due to the GSK, I'm getting the heavier exhaust springs put in just to be safe. I'll post some feedback when everything's done. Based on other's comments I should be all :D :D :D



-Kyle
 
So far I can do about 3500 RPM with stock springs and get no sign of valve float. I wont push it past this even with heavy springs because it still a Diesel with very heavy rods and pistons and as long as I can beat Mustang GTs what more do I need.
 
Originally posted by tpcdrafting

Mine will rev to 3000 as well, but the power band stops at 2600. I'm hoping it will now go all the way to 3k.



When I installed the springs in mine, it pulled to about 3,300 RPM. '94-'95's auto's poop out at 2,200 RPM stock.
 
Mine would also cut out at about 2200 before the GSK. As to the fuel plate question, I'm running a Banks Git Kit plate. It's suppose to be a mild plate. Around 30ish added HP. I'm guessing similar to a #11 or 10 plate. All I know is it runs like a raped ape now!
 
Please help me understand

Just slapped in a 3K GSK and can't believe the performance gain,wow! Also adjusted the gov arm to my fuel plate. Makes much more smoke with WOT



Can you interpret this into plain ole country boy language - I really want to know and understand...



Thank-you

Old Georg
 
Deezul1, Come on the Cummins sounds rally good at 4200 RPMs!!! AT the Bully Dog Dyno days you should have seen the guys eyes running the dyno when I told him I wanted to run to 140 MPH He looks at me like ya right then after the run he had to pick his jaw up off the ground. :D :cool: :D .



The patriot, My truck ran to 3150 before the GSK but the HP falls off fast after 2600 RPMs, the 3k GSK will run to 3400 and starts defueling at 3000 RPMs instead of 2600 RPMs.
 
Re: Please help me understand

Originally posted by GOakes

Can you interpret this into plain ole country boy language - I really want to know and understand...



Thank-you

Old Georg




No problem! 3K GSK is shorthand for 3,000 RPM kit. This allows your engine to pull up to 3,400 RPM under load. Your '97 will run up to a higher RPM than my '94 did before being defueled by the govorner but it still might defuel before up shifting.



The lever adjustment is refering to an adjustment made to a lever in the injector pump when a new plate is installed. Some plates are more suseptable than other to needing the adjustment done but all should be checked during a plate install.



PDR is the source of the RPM kits and they have the lever procedure on their site too.
 
Extreme1



Thanks --- I'm a long way behind the 'know how' curve and trying to understand... The language barrier sometimes gets in the way --- your explaination helps...



Old Georg
 
Well I just got the truck back from the shop and I am all :D :D :D. DDII's, 3K GSK, and #10 plate installed now. The power seems to come on early and is smooth through 3000rpm (as high as I've taken it so far). I was expecting mild smoke, but haven't seen much if any increase. Boost will go up about twice as quickly now and top out at about 20lb. EGT's so far are about 100* higher when empty and top out about 950-1000*. The extra RPM are amazing. I can keep O/D locked out on the 50 mph county roads now. The toughest part is babying the extra power since the transmission is still stock. Question: The boost elbow that is supplied with the fuel plate. Is it preset to some boost limit or can it be adjusted? Is there enough fuel for 25-30 lb. of boost?



-Kyle
 
crnxr,



I believe the elbow that came with the plate is preset for a particular boost pressure. I got mine from Piers and it said in the instructions to not adjust it.



You mentioned your trani is stock, I just put a #10 plate in my truck and really like it. My trani is stock and I notice that the low end the converter slippage limits me from noticing any real power increase, once I get locked up on the freeway and mash down the pedal the truck really takes off and pulls me back in the seat.

Do you notice any real increase at the low end, say from a dead stop up to 40mph?



Haven't done the GSK springs yet, plan on that next and then eventually will either add a torque converter and valve body to the trani or replace the whole trani.
 
I am not sure how your boost elbow is made but mine from TST has a Allen set screw in it that can be adjusted. The idea behind it is to bleed off boost before it hits the waste gate so it sees the boost as lower than it is
 
Well I had this great reply typed up and then got logged out accidentally. Gotta love cornpooters.



Anyway, the power is smooth and even all the way, with no lopey idle or hiccups. I can't get into the pedal too much due to slippage either Bseg. Power seems to be there at low speed/rpm though. I think you'd be really happy with the GSK and the #10 plate as it totally removes the RPM ceiling/resistance that I had around 2200. Before the GSK I had to use cruise control and manually accelerate using the buttons. No more!!!



I remember seeing the black allen screw in the boost elbow so it sounds like the same one as you two describe. I'm going out to take a closer look now and maybe I can adjust it to raise boost to 30lb. Anyone else done this without changing to a different design?



-Kyle
 
#crnxr



That's what I got, the black allen screw. I looked at it when I did the install but wasn't able to figure out what it does.



Deezul1,



Could you explain how the bleeding off works?



Thanks
 
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