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Just hit 30K- wanted to ask an oil question-

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I have been using mopar 15w 40 since day one in my truck with a mopar oil filter every 5000 miles(got it from dealer). Since I have been on this site, been reading alot about synthetic oils and am considering switching. In Pennsylvania we get cold winters but not as cold as others. It seems motor has a hard time some days with turning that oil. Wanted an opinion from some cold weather guys on a decent weight oil and either full or 50/50 synthetic(your opinion)with 30,000 on motor. Also wanted some feedback on changing rears fluids also. (approx mileage to do it) I do not take long trips like alot of you guys- Do 99% city driving-alot of stop and go ; on and of. Also cant believe how much I have been paying for oil filters all this time as compared to Genos pricing. THANKS IN ADVANCE

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98 2500 4x4 QC auto "one of the last 12 valvers- late Dec 1997" 305 70 16, K&N ,260/608 torque plate,EGT and Boost gauge under ashtray. Bought a spray can of CAT-BE-GONE. Ring removed- Whats next folks????
 
DAM Rednut!! 30K miles?? I have over double your mileage!!
I use Rotella 15w-40 w/o a problem. I plug it in whenever it's possible, and/or below 35 degrees out. Last oil change I put in Pennzoil 15w-40.
I've been using the "penske" oil filters w/o any problems.
I do my oil, filter & grease every 4000 miles. Fuel filters are going about 10K miles.
Generally I've been seeing people go about 40K on the trans and rears oil. Mine is still factory. (having trouble finding Castrol Syntorq locally)
I guess any reputable synthetic will do it. Amsoil series 3000 is a good oil... so I'm told. I'm sure the cummins premium blue is good too.
Eric

BTW May as well consider doing your antifreeze soon too.
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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Michelin 275 75 16 lr-E. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 63,000 Mi as of 1/27/01.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

[This message has been edited by The patriot (edited 02-28-2001). ]
 
Rednut
How about an opinion directly from Cummins:

Synthetic oils are recommended by Cummins at low ambient (arctic)temperatures (-10 degF or lower), however, they can be used at other ambient temperatures, providing the recommended oil change intervals are not exceeded. If full synthetic oils are to be used, Cummins recommends that the engine use mineral base oils for the first two oil change intervals, then switch to the synthetic base oil.
For ambient temperature ranges,
Cummins recommends:
15W40 oil for operation in temperatures: (+12 deg F and upward)

10W30 oil for operation in temperatures between -13 deg F and +68 deg F, but not above +68 deg F

Synthetic CE/SG 5W30 oil for severe (Arctic) conditions(below -10 deg F)
Powermaster
Customer Assistance Center
Cummins, Inc.
Columbus, Indiana, USA
Email: powermaster@cummins.com
Ref: CAC ID

I've been using Rotella T 15w40 & switched to their Rotella SB 10w30 per Cummins recommendation & noticed improved starting @ sub zero temps.
#ad

Mike

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94 2500HD 5sp 4. 10LSD 4X4 ABS w/GearVendor OD, K&N Oval w/ Pre-Filter, Straight Exhaust, Geno's Fumotovalve, AW-Direct Idle Controller, Mag-Hytec Rear, 123K miles. NRA Member. V1.
 
Rednut,I've been using Delo 15-40 year round on both my rigs since the first oil change,no problems,but I do plug in during cold weather. Eastern WA probably gets colder than where you are. If what I've read many times about not extending change intervals with synthetics is true I can't see how it can be economic. If you can go for as long without changing as the syn guys say,but Cummins says you shouldn't,it would be great. Who you want to believe is up to you. I know I'm going to stick to Delo,it's worked great for over 100k for me.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)
 
I use Rotella 15-40 for most of the year, but one year it got 27 bellow, when I checked my oil with a paper towel the oil was so stiff it ripped the towel. Now In the winter I run Delvac it"s mobil's diesel syn. come spring Rotella goes back in. I change every 3000.....

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96 2500, 5 speed, Fuel preporator, K&N, Dr. performance injectors, Horton, No cat, Holes in muffler, TST #11,AFC spring kit and going broke with the price of fuel.
 
I having tested (real world results)oils/miles/lab test/and most inportantly the end results.
I must admit i didnt read every word(suppose to be doing tax preperation !!)
Noted--didn"t see if you pluged in over at home weekend/sleeping/holiday times.
Having run GOT CAUGHT !!!!!!!!!later 15w15 year around. Food's ready

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96-3500 SLT EXT. CAB AM/FM/CD-RINO LINER. D-CELERATOR EXH. BRK-RED LINE VAC. OVER HYD BRK CONTROL- AIR BAGS W/HVY DUTY AIR COMP. PUTCO S/STEEL DEEPBOARDS FRONT TO REAR. REESE 20K 5TH WHEEL & GOOSE -REESE 20K HITCH BELOW W/17K RECEVER. CLEAR COATED & SOUND DEADINGING &UNDER COATED 5 SPD/W 4:10 MCHLN'S 235/16'S UNIDEN PC76/WEATHER-WILSON 1000 MAG MOUNT ANT. 4 WHL ANTI LOC BRK SYS.
 
Rednut: I use Amsoil 15W40 synthetic from April to about November, then switch to Rotella 10W30 for the severe cold months. I don't put a lot of miles on in the winter, but the truck will be required to start at minus 25.
 
I use full synthec in the winter, 5W30 and a normal 15W40 in the Summer. At -40 and plugged in I get Really nervious seeing no oil pressure for 15seconds with 15W40. I leave in a place called Winterpeg (Winnipeg) and it's north of North Dakota in Canada. Very cold.

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95, Kitty dead, #6plate, 5speed.
 
I use Rotella 15W-40 year round in Colorado, it isnt as cold as Alaska but a little cool ! #ad
I have never had any problems with my 96 and it only has 31,000 miles on it. When I pull it out of the barn it is to pull trailers or hunt !

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96 2500 4X4, SC,SLT, 12 valve,lost kitty 5SP 3. 54. line-x liner All stock
 
With all the more miles you put on, you'll never pay for the synthetic in fuel mileage.
And it looks like you will never wear the engine out anyway.
If you want the best run synthetics. The petros are more than adequate, it is just a matter of taste at this point. All the advantages that you gain with a synthetic are somewhat lost if you don't drive it.

Come to Johnboys dyno day in Erie, and I'll explain the finer points of synthetics to you!
Gene

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1997 Cummins Dodge 4x4 Bombed & Amsoiled. Amsoil Premiere Direct Jobber, Member of: NRA Business Alliance, GLTDR, WANTED: Wrecked Dodges.
www.awdist.com
 
Hey,
unless you are putting the miles on, or simply want the BEST, then what can I say?
Gasser vs. Cummins. How many of us really NEED that Cummins? I'll bet most of us WANTED it!!!!
Know what I mean?
Gene
 
Geez, I'll have to dig out my owners maual again- I did not read the part about having to put a minimal amount of mileage each year on the motor. LOL Cmon Gene,I think nobody on this website really needs a 30k+ truck either -we could get by on a 2500 for about 22K to get from point A to B but people like the engine for different reasons so they spend the extra money to get what they want not what they need. #ad
 
Yep,
And now that I got one, I REALLY NEEDED IT BOMBED!

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1997 2500 4x4, CC, Auto, 3. 54 LSD, 66K, Everything inc Leather, K&N, 4" BD cat-back, otherwise stock, Isspro Gauges(3), 285/75/16 on Alcola's, Canopy, BedLiner, and tons more.
 
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