Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Just ordered 3k govenor springs

[rKortan]

Well I finally got tired of hearing everyone talk about the way their trucks ran with the 3k springs. I am so envious of the power of the new trucks but I can't bring myself to part with the cash so I will continue to BOMB my 94. I currently have a TST plate

( 230/605), 215 injectors , Banks turbo, my third BD trans with auto lok and pressure lok, Rancho 9000's,Scotty, Borgeson shaft , Pac Brake,12Klb 5th whl, and gauges. I have read the instructions posted and think I can get the springs in with no problem. I am a little comcerned with the final tweaking that I might have to do. Can anyone provide any tips to shorten the number of times I have to open the pump. I like to tinker with my truck but I have a fairly short fuse when projects don't progress smoothly. I will have some time in June when I can let the truck sit and ride my FXDWG to work so I really don't have to get the truck done quickly.

Also, with 156k on the truck should I be looking for the lift pump to go south.

TRD has been so helpful over the years and this forum has saved me thousands. thanks to everyone... ... ... ... BK

 

[Reb.B]

i always go from the side, . . get an oil pan to grab the overflow of oil, ... count the quarter clicks when taking the spring retainer off. I count the quarter clicks til the nut is flush with the sharft, ... then install with the same amount of quarter clicks. Pull everytrhing out except the large spring and the shim(s) for the large spring. If u have a 160 or 175 pump call and get the 4k baby springs too, if u have a 180 or 215 pump than the 3K will spin up to 3400-3500 rpms. The 160's don't like to spin, so if u have that pump get the extra sping. Oh, and don't loose the half moon key on the fuel shut off shaft. Good luck, Reb

 

[JJW_ND]

Ditto going in the side!

I went in the top twice to adjust, while it is faster to adjust you can also DRAMATICALLY change your baseline settings unless you get the fuel plate and AFC housing back in the exact position. You will hate yourself if you drop something into the pump from the top (on install).



The side is not that bad. Reb B. hit the high points. Count 1/4 turns and in addition count how many clicks (each 1/4 turn will be a click until the nut looses contact with the top spring keeper. Most trucks are around 2 clicks tight. Three for older 160 and 180 pumps (from what I have read). My 96 5sp was 2 clicks. BTW... two clicks seems pretty darn loose. If JohnE sees this he will add a few more good tips. He is done several of these and speaks of adjusting by "Feel".



I think one can forget the measuring as it gives a very precise measurement for something that ends up being a very coarse adjustment ... 1/4 turn. Count 1/4 turns and clicks. If idle is very low after restart (go for a drive 1st before deciding) you could need one more click tighter. I would adjust idle up first and see.



jjw

ND

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Over the top is harder to get the springs out but you can see more, I've done it both ways! I put a plate in last week and set the springs at intital click plus one more and had to go back and put one more click on them to get the idle right (it was way low) if you get the springs too tight and correct it with the idle it may be a little too touchy on the throttle (especially cruise control).



Jim

 

[Dennis Garrett]

I've been my pump both ways on my 97. Might be a little easier to adjust through the top, you don't loose any oil that way, & if you want, you can move your plate at the same time. I had trouble getting any boost & HP at first, then someone mentioned doing the gov. lever adjustment. I guess it's necessary sometimes when you change the gov. springs. It was easy too. I don't have the link anymore, but you can get it off the Piers' site under "secrete lever adjustment" or something like that. Has pictures & instructions. Don't worry if you drop something into the pump, just fish around a little with a pencil magnet, & you'll fine it OK.

 

[JohnE]

Accept the fact you will have to adjust SOMETHING after doing a governor spring set install. It may be idle adjust, spring tension adjust, or simply driving style adjustment.



I prefer the side entry myself. Tried it both ways, but I like having the spring stack close to my fingers so I can feel things as JJW mentioned.



Yes, get the 4k spring set. If you change your mind at install time, you leave off the smallest and center most spring to change it back to a 3k spring set.



Reb. B mentioned the 94-95 pumps respond better to a 4k spring set. The 94-95 pumps are also notorious for a sensitive governor that causes a stumble just above idle. A governor spring set is supposed to help, especially if you have larger than stock injectors. Have you noticed any stumble with your 215's?



Here is my feel method.

Measure the stud protrusion and note the position of the slot in the spring retainer. Push on the top retainer and feel the slight spring compression. Loosen the retainer nut a click and check the tension feel. Loosen one more click and feel the tension. Obviously it gets looser. It should not take more than one or two clicks and the springs are not compressed. Also count the clicks to get the nut even with the top of the stud. Use the method you feel most comfortable to install the new springs. either maske sure the springs are similar in compression, stud protrusion is the same or click count is the same.



You will find many variations in factory pump settings. One of my spring stacks was a click tighter than the other side. I tried setting the 3k governor springs that way and after many trial and error corrections, setting the 3k springs to equal complression. You may be the oposite, factory springs are equal and it will work better with one 3/4k spring set tighter.



You probably have a #6 plate. This is a very good example of a plate that needs a governor lever adjustment after doing governor springs. Here's the link Dennis mentioned.

PDR governor lever



Jim's comment on over tight springs is the kicker. It will give a very sensitive (nonlinear) throttle action and usually put a flutter or stumble in an annoying rpm band. I feel looser is better. Set the idle up if it annoys you being low.



Sorry to ramble, but it took me a few installs and a phone call to Piers to sort out all this black magic.



PM or email if you want more details.

 

[JPS]

3K or 4K gov. springs

Have a '95 CTD, was going to go to 3K gov. springs. Are you saying to use the 4K springs and not to use heavier springs on valves for better performance on the '95? jps

 

[Jim Fulmer]

160 Pumps will definately benefit more from the 4K's, if you don't install the valve springs you really have to watch the RPM's.



Jim

 

[JohnE]

Even installing a 3k spring set can put you at the red line for needing 60# valve springs.

My buddy at Cummins told me 12 valves will start floating valves around 3,600 rpm. Guess what, I governor out at 3,600 rpm with 3k springs on my 97 auto pump.

 

[rKortan]

I sure appreciate all the information so far. I'll be using it all when the springs arrive and I start the job. I'm looking forward to it. And yes I am ready to do some adjusting until I get it just right... ... ... ... ... BK

 

[rKortan]

project now completed. My truck now runs up to 2800 rpm with no problem. What a great bomb for a very reasonable price and effort. Thanks to everyone for all the great suggestions. I had no problems. I'll drive it for a while and decide just where I want the idle. No stumble at all... ... ... ... ... ... BK