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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Just ordered Bob V's 2 lo kit.

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TurboFan said:
I'm not too crazy about having to pull the front end in each time I go in and out of 4x4 (I do it frequently and sometimes i want it fast), so I'll try to figure something out. I am hoping to have a normal position where it all works as it does now, and a lockout position where the front end can't engage.



Greg

Like SNOKING said, with BobV's kit you can leave it in 'factory' position. You can also mount the control knob anywhere you want. So if you wanted to hide it and go hunting for those seldom-used times you need 2WLO that would work. :cool:
 
turbofan, that is exactly what I want. To be able to leave the CAD locked (or unlocked) regardless of where the w4d lever is.



So on patchy ice/snow roads I can go in and out of 4wd while keeping the CAD locked.



Or while backing I can go into 2lo.



This could be acomplished by having two electric EGR vacuum control valves, one to provide vacuum to the engage side of the CAD and the other to provide vacuum to the disengage side of the CAD. (both valves would have to vent to atmosphere when not powered up).



Bob's kit sounded easier since he provides the hoses, fittings, valve etc.
 
Texas Diesel said:
turbofan, that is exactly what I want. To be able to leave the CAD locked (or unlocked) regardless of where the w4d lever is.



So on patchy ice/snow roads I can go in and out of 4wd while keeping the CAD locked.



Or while backing I can go into 2lo.



This could be acomplished by having two electric EGR vacuum control valves, one to provide vacuum to the engage side of the CAD and the other to provide vacuum to the disengage side of the CAD. (both valves would have to vent to atmosphere when not powered up).



Bob's kit sounded easier since he provides the hoses, fittings, valve etc.



In reading Bob V info, it would be the other way around. You would leave the Transfer case in 4 WD and go back and forth with his control to lock or unlock the CAD.



"All of these 2WL kits can be shifted in and out at anytime the transfer case

is in 4-wheel drive even while moving at normal speeds. This means that if

you are in adverse weather and need to quickly engage 4-wheel drive, the

transfer case can be shifted into 4W high in advance and the 2WL kit can be

placed in lock-out. Then to engage the front axle (4WD) just switch the

valve to normal and lightly let up on the throttle. "



SNOKING
 
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Texas Diesel said:
I wasnt sure how to read that but I'll let you know once it gets here and is installed.

Texas - I think SNOKING is right. If you recall some of the earlier discussion from Bob, shifting the CAD before the Tcase was a big no-no (because of the need to align splines by way of the Tcase powering the axle half shaft), hence the purpose of keeping the original Tcase mounted vac switch in place. It prevents the CAD from locking anytime the Tcase IS NOT in 2WD.



But you can get the same results you are seeking by keeping the Tcase engaged and popping the CAD in and out.



I'm sure you could also mod Bob's kit, but run the risk of CAD damage from a driver not educated in how to use it properly.
 
TurboFan said:
Good point NPS. I bet you are right about keeping the vacuum on the other side.





I'm not too crazy about having to pull the front end in each time I go in and out of 4x4 (I do it frequently and sometimes i want it fast), so I'll try to figure something out. I am hoping to have a normal position where it all works as it does now, and a lockout position where the front end can't engage.



Since I don't NEED a lockout, I'm doing it mostly for fun. I guess I'll try to figure out something. Actually I think I just thought of a way.



Put a valve on the "engage" line that redirects vacuum to the "disangage" line. With the redirect valve off all is normal. It goes in and out as factory.

with the redirect valve "on" it redirects the vacuum to the disengage side and keeps the front end locked out. If it turns out it is necessary, I could throw a check valve in the original disengage line upstream of the new valve.



Probably doesn't make sense without pictures. I need to think it through.



Thanks for the help NPS



Greg

Greg, If you would rather build your own kit you are welcome to give me a call 503-556-4238. My typing skills aren't that great so it is easier for me to talk directly. I might be able to save you a little time by helping with what works and what doesn't and who has the parts you need.

nps and snoking, sound like you have and excellent grasp of how the kits work. The standard kit is a manual, push pull, 4 way 2 position valve that is assembled in such a way that the CAD can't be engaged unless the transfer case is in 4WD. The deluxe and E/F kits are a little different. These are set up so that the transfer case valve is used as a signal in series with a toggle VALVE to control a vacuum operated 4 way 2 position, spring return valve. Both the transfer case valve and the toggle valve have to be "on"for the CAD to shift.

I would also like to add the at the present time, some of the kits take me a while to get shipped. I recently changed jobs and now work later and the places I get my parts are an hour out of my way home. I do get some parts shipped to me but I still have to pick some up and I still need to get to the post office to get the kits shipped. I ask for you understanding when ordering.

Bob V
 
this kit works great when im going through snowy and icy roads. i just put the t-case in 4h and keep the knob down till i need 4wd. engages smooth at speed. the only time i didnt like the way it engaged is when i was spinning the back tires and hit the switch, of coarse its gonna make noise. i have the switch mounted on my shifter that way i dont have to lean down to operate it. that way i can go back to 2wd after i gain enough traction while spanking hondas :D i noticed the low gearing help prevent me from tearing up peoples gravel driveways when there steep and i have to back out.
 
Thanks Bob. I guess I picked up the wrong impression of what your kit does. I'll give you a call one of these days and get the straight skinny on the details.

It's starting to look like it will do what I want, and is probably cheaper than starting from scratch.



Thanks for the input guys.
 
Bob, what kind of shipping time is my kit looking like? I understand your job change situation but am looking for an estimate only. You should get my $$ in a day or two. Thanks.
 
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