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Just regrooved GYear G647

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building/installing a living quaters in a horse trailer

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Harvey, I ordered the stuff today and talked to "Weir". He was very helpful. He said he wasn't absolutely positive about the 17" Michelin, but that if it says "regroovable" that it probably is a candidate for the "4 lives". It would at least be a candidate for regrooving OR recapping if it doesn't say "regroovable" on the sidewall. That's what they do in Europe, Asia, and India. If I can figure out how to submit pictures on this forum, I will do so.

Thank you, that answers my question. The 17" Michelins are "ordinary" synthetic belt casings not regroovable. They are clearly not as stiff as the XPS Ribs I once used on my '01 Ram and on my trailers.

I would consider recapping them but would not want to risk regrooving.
 
Just bought a re-grooving tool. Bought 4 Continental 225/70/19. 5s with 45,000 miles on them for $120. They will be my first victims! I'll let y'all know how it turns out.
 
Congrats! What style Continentals? I use HSR and HDR in that size on some of our porta potty trucks. Lots of traction!
Check your other thread, I left a link there for a sight that shows several examples of how to regroove various tires.
 
I've never seen a tire regrooving tool. How does it work? Does it use a motor with rotating cutting blades to cut rubber or does it grind away rubber?

Is the commercial regroover used by truck tire shops a large machine that the tire is mounted in and rotated to cut the grooves?

I'm sure the one an individual buys off craigslist or ebay for a few bucks is not a machine but a handheld hand operated tool. How does it work?
 
It works like a soldering gun. It heats the blade as it cuts. Maybe someone can take a picture of one.



When I was hauling logs we used to brand our tires to keep them identified from other loggers when we sent them in for re-cap. The tool has letters that get hot and melt the brand into the sidewall.



I was never interested in regrooving, most of my hauls were off-highway rocks so tire flats were hard to control as is.



Nick
 
Mine is from VanAlstine. It's easier to find a picture of it online. Mine holds razor sharp blades of different widths, and they get clamped into a heating element. On mine, the blade stays cool until you press the clamping mechanism (which holds blade) against the rubber. This activates a switch that energizes the blade (like a filament in an incandescent bulb). The razor sharp blade then gets hot and you push the tool as you follow the path you wish to cut. The nice thing about mine is that it is instant on/instant off. Mine has 4 heat settings, and I have yet to use level 4. I usually use 1 and 2, with 3 used for cutting fresh, 1/2" lugs into our 22. 5" tires.
It literally cuts like a hot knife through butter.
The regrooving "machine" you are thinking about uses the exact same regrooving tool that I have, except that the "machine" part is the part that holds the bare tire, or a tire wheel assembly, and slowly rotates tire forward or backward hydraulically. Since I do mine right on the truck, I just jack up the corner I'm working on and rotate it with my free hand, and hold it with my feet or knees.
I can insert u-shaped blades that cuts 1/32" wide up to 18/32", depending on what I need.
The thing I found most interesting is the consistency of the rubber. When I cut a strip that is roughly 1/4" x 1/4" and several feet long, I have yet to be able to pull one apart!! The rubber is WAY stronger than I would have guessed!
I think mine cost around $380, more or less. I knew I had a lot of rubber to cut, and this one is what the pros use. The soldering gun one works, just slower.
 
Thanks. I looked over the link but can't envision how the tool actually works without seeing one in action.

How about a photo when you begin regrooving one?
 
In the past two days, I've regrooved four tires for deeper, more aggressive tread since snow is finally on it's way.

Depending what kind of tire, the tread pattern, etc. , they take somewhere between 45 and 90 minutes per tire. I'm talking 22. 5" truck tires. 17 and 19. 5" of course would take less. I will say, though, that measuring and planning takes time, if you want it to look good and be safe. You don't just want to go at it without a plan. You want to plan how wide you want your groove, how deep you can/want to go, what pattern, what you're trying to accomplish, etc...
 
I use a Van Alstine G-1000 to groove Super Swamper and other offroad tires. I also regroove the center tread on my Toyo M-55s because the center tread depth in about 2 to 3/32s less then the rest of tire. I have to say, if you are going to groove alot of tires or (large) this the machine to get. It saves time and your arm.
 
I don't know. I would think that there should be a small increase in rolling deflection, since the blocks of rubber are somewhat conforming to the road. Since I think that there is some energy exerted there, you are probably right. Is it enough to make a noticeable difference? Probably not. Is there a noticeable difference in traction? Definitely!

Some tires are better suited to siping than others. If you have a highway rib type tire, there are huge gains to be had regarding traction. I would never sipe a tire that already had siping, though, like Blizzaks winter tires.
Since factory siping usually only goes down maybe 1/4" to 3/8", I would easily sipe a tire once the factory sipes were gone.
Siping proponents will say that a tire lasts longer and runs cooler when siped. I don't know if that's true or not, all I can vouch for is the traction aspect, and that is huge!
 
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