Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Just something to keep in mind about DV gaskets

[EGaskamp]

I had a horrible miss in my truck in the #6 cylinder and thought my pump was going bad. It turns out the delivery valve gasket was broken causing the dead cylinder and it runs awesome now. But I pulled one of the other gaskets just to see what kind of shape they were in and I'm glad I did cause they were all cupped so I replaced them all so I wouldn't have to go back in the pump. So just keep that in mind if you ever get a miss. I also beat a 300ZX with twin turbos last night in my truck!!!!!! Stupid ricers!!

 

[Missouri Mule]

Thanks for the info.

 

[Cooker]

Are you talking about the green O-Ring?

 

[Texas Diesel]

Originally posted by EGaskamp

. I also beat a 300ZX with twin turbos last night in my truck!!!!!! Stupid ricers!!

Those morons will spend $3k for a turbo setup that will give 3PSI (T-H-R-E-E PSI) and a "cool" hiss (popoff valve) at each shift.



Reportedly the turbo decreases ET from 29. 22202 sec to 29. 02202 sec :-laf



Those so called turbos they use wouldnt make a good ventilator for an ant mound.



I wonder if any of them have figured out they can double their HP by leaving the starter engaged

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

ROFLMAO



Jim

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I can't wait until someone tries to race even a mildly warmed over '93-'98 Toyota Supra. :-laf



They'll eat our trucks for breakfast unless you're running quite a bit of fuel through your truck...



Matt

 

[bmoeller]

Originally posted by EGaskamp

I had a horrible miss in my truck in the #6 cylinder and thought my pump was going bad. It turns out the delivery valve gasket was broken causing the dead cylinder and it runs awesome now.

Hmmm, I'll have to check into it. Could be my problem, also.

 

[EGaskamp]

The easiest way to narrow it dow to a certian cylinder is take a heat gun and put in on the exhaust manifold and which ever comes out the coldest thats the one. After that get your special socket and take the line off and pull it out of the pump. Becareful not to loose the spring ans the piece of metal inside it that sitts on top of the DV. Under the DV is your copper washer. Sometimes its the littlest things. Hope this helps.



Eric

 

[bmoeller]

It does, thanks. Haven't been in one (plate aside) since the fuel lab at DMACC when I was going to school.



With the 370's, I could probably find it by cracking a line. It is more noticable now, than with the stock injectors. I was thinking it was the injectors before. Not now.



Just need to buy the DV socket yet.

 

[EGaskamp]

Also, another way to check is to start the engine and put your hand on each one of the fuel lines by the pump. If you can't feel fuel pulsing through there they thats the one thats bad. Because you should be able to feel the fuel pulsing through the lines. Mine got more noticable also when I put in the 370's, but it runs like a champ now. Have fun!!



Eric

 

[PKemp]

Copper gaskets... . !! Bosch has replaced the copper gaskets with steel ones in the p7100 pumps because of leakage problems. The problem was first discovered in the BIG trucks but applies to all p7100 pumps. The Bosch Part No. is: 2410500032.

 

[bmoeller]

Thanks for the P/N.

 

[AWray]

I noticed when I installed my 191's from Piers that the instructions said to remove the copper washer and said nothing about replacing them. As I recall, the instructions I received with the dv's were different than the instructions Piers had online. I left the washers out when I put the dv's back and the truck runs pretty good.

 

[vssman]

Not every pump needs washers. My 96 came without any. I talked to Piers and he confirmed that it depends on the pump.

 

[gtobey]

Hey guys, the infrared thermometer is the trick. When the DV gasket leaks, then the fuel is bypassing the valve and won't get through to the injector. I can't recommend leaving a DV washer out if your specific pump parts list calls for it, but most of all, be sure to torque the DV holder back to the proper specs to prevent cracking the DV. And, EGaskamp, you gave a good recommendation to tell folks to watch out for the delivery valve spring, fill piece, and shim (if applicable). When removing the DV holder after loosening it, lift it up really slowly so as not to lose what's under it. Be prepared for fuel to escape over the side of the pump and drip under the truck.



Also be careful when performing this procedure that no dirt gets into the DV area, (clean the top of the pump first with something like Brakekleen spray and blow it dry with compressed air) and that you lubricate the o-ring around the DV holder with something like STP or a bit of heavy oil so it doesn't get cut when re-installing it.