Just won't start but runs fine when starts

[Wayne M.]

I did see the 3.0 I guess video. I was really chuckling while the engine was drowning you out as you were shooting the underside. I miss a REAL TRUCK! They sure have character.

 

[RWherley]

Where did you get your lift pump? not all replacement parts are created equal as a rule of thumb I stay way from autozone unless its a last resort.

 

[Pastor Sinner]

Thanks need to check them all out from 1.0 on.

 

[Pastor Sinner]

RWherley: Got it on Ebay. It was a Case Tractor part. Maybe not strong enough, as those only put out about 100-120 HP I am working on putting fuel pressure gauge in next.

 

[Pastor Sinner]

Update on the Cranky ol' Cuss. I bumped the timing the 1/8" today bleed the main line, as I removed it to get to some nuts. It took about 3 secs to start, I thought I was out of the woods. Took the beast for a test drive runs like a bat out of hell. Sad news is, it wouldn't start again when I shut it down, I will try again first thing in the morning, if it fires up I am afraid of bad pump.

 

[Pastor Sinner]

DVolk: I ditched the fuel heater

 

[RWherley]

I would think that a case part would be ok as long as it is made by a good company, I know other people using case pumps.

 

[RWherley]

This may sound dumb but what is your battery voltage, and is your starter cranking fast enough to start the engine? I had a issue a few years ago where the battery was low enough that it would not spin fast enough to start, but would still spin for a low time.

 

[NIsaacs]

One thing I do to help trouble shoot a suspected VE injector pump, is to make sure there is no restriction in the fuel return line to the tank. When fuel gets old it can separate and the sulfur particles can plug stuff up. Also be sure and check the fuel return banjo bolt at the pump, it has a small screen that might be plugged up. Some literature says this restriction can retard the pump timing some says no, but I double check this anyway. On the low HP applications of the 5.9 with a Lucas pump, this issue is a for sure thing. A fuel pump is expensive so you want to cover all the bases before you give up. Good luck.

Nick

 

[DVolk]

Do you have a way you can rig up a small fuel can ? I think your sucking air some place maybe even at the fuel tank like I said I removed the o rings from mine it cranked like a sob before it fire up

 

[Pastor Sinner]

RWherley: I have a 850CCA Battery. It was free so have been spinning pretty fast.

 

[Pastor Sinner]

NIsaacs: I will check all that out, Because I did let it sit for a few years. During my restoration I dumped the old fuel in my used oil drum to burn in my oil burning stove. And I cleaned the outsides of the lines off, but never thought to blow them out. I will check that banjo bolt as well, Thanks.

 

[ChrisWilliams]

What happens if you manually pump the lift pump 10 or 12 times, then crank it? Next, try bleeding the IP first and see if it starts quicker. In my mind, this would tell if it is air in the system or a weak IP. How is the pressure after the filter? Every time the 91.5 is slow to crank, I have found air getting in the system.

 

[Pastor Sinner]

ChrisWilliams: When I bumped the timing 1/8" advanced, I loosened all the injector lines, and banjo bolts as to not stress them, I also had to remove the feed line to pump to get to one of the bolts that hold the IP. When I tightened the lines all back up except the feedline I primed it, and it started up after about 3 cranks. I am going to buy me a Facet Elec. LP that pushes 12-15 PSI I am tired of manual LP's. But first I will try what Nick said and clean the lines. Thanks.

 

[Wayne M.]

Don't give up on the original LP! If you want, put a brass check valve upstream, toward the tank of and before the LP. If there is draw back, that will stop it.

 

[Pastor Sinner]

Wayne M: I do have one of those on the way, so I read in another thread the guy put his in between the IP and LP, Your suggesting put it between the Tank and LP? on the feedline.

 

[Wayne M.]

Wayne M: I do have one of those on the way, so I read in another thread they guy put his in between the IP and LP, Your suggesting put it between the Tank and LP? on the feedline.

Yes. The only variable there would be if the LP was leaking into the crankcase. A real long shot. Ever remove the fuel filter after a overnight sit? It should be at least 7/8 full.

 

[Pastor Sinner]

Wayne M: I will check the filter before I proceed any further to see. By the way how do you all post your handle, I can't seem to figure that one out yet as a newbee

 

[NIsaacs]

The oem fuel delivery system works fine, don't get caught up in fixing stuff that's not broke. The fact that on a warm shutdown it won't restart is a bad sign, that keeps pointing to the pump. It starts with a shot of starting fluid and runs fine, so fuel delivery or air is probably not an issue.

Nick

 

[DVolk]

If you removed the quick connect on both ends I'd check that lift ump there as fact bread a fewvyears back about some bad ones that had pin holes in thevdiaphram a few years back . I bought one from Napa and it works fine I thought my pump as bad until I took the word from another guy on here ,I think it was Bob and got rid of all the quick connects now no issues I'd try another can or snag a electric fuel pump a cheap one just before the lift pump sndvtry that if your not running big horse owerr the hell with a air dog or other set up ,also note Mr.Gasket makes a "diesel pump " but a cheap gas pump works just as good ,also sounds real stupid but have you re checked your fuel filter it could be fuel of crap already . also I have found plastic wrap inside of them before!!!