K&N again

[BigCarl64]

If anyone is interested, a put a K&N RE-0880 on my truck as soon as I got it home from the dealer. I have had it on my truck now for 25,000 miles and have done oil analysis samples. The highest reading I have ever had for SILICON was 9. I will keep my K&N as I like the turbo spool-up and sound.

 

[Mag]

Thanks Brian. Bill, I like your idea of pulling the air from the cowl area like the Phscotty.

 

[bowhunter]

I'm running Brian's setup right now,
:cool #ad
Holcomb Air) #ad
The canister filter setup. I like it.

Heres some things I've noticed:
1. I know it flows way better than the K&N's, my truck sounds like concrete truck, great turbo sound. .

2. It also has a perfect seal that you never have to worry about.

3. I've picked up 300 to 400 RPMS from the stock airbox. I can now get 3100 RPMS out of a stock govenor. Can't wait to get the CAT off the exhaust.

4. I also gained 3 to 4 mpg's--now I get around 23 to 25 mpg. I have a two tank average of 24. 5 @ around 70 mph.

I know Big DQ is running this as well.

Great setup

Kurt--

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97 2500 Reg cab 4WD, Emerald Green and Driftwood, 3. 54 gears, 2. 5" Tuff Country Steel Coil Spacers, 295/75/16 AT BFG'S on Alcoa's, Trailmaster SSV shocks & SSV steering stabilizer, Holcomb Air, Amsoiled, stock--#10 TST plate and AFC Spring Kit thats waiting on a new clutch

K. Kinion

 

[bholcomb]

Bill, what size is the canister housing you thinking about using? I know my setup ends up right in front of the hole for the psychotty (which I never had, but tried the theory). I wanted to use the stock intake hose, but you can most likely tuck the housing in closer to the fender provided a different shaped hose. The best thing about having the canister setup is not having to worry about it when you wash the engine.

Brian

 

[illflem]

Brian,I still haven't decided which can is best,The one from my M-F is 8"dia X 20",4" outlet on one end 3" inlet mid way on the side. The M-F plastic intake on the can(separate part) is rectangular,screened for the big stuff and only 1/2" bigger than the intake hole in the fender wall,real easy to make it fit right up there. You would have to make brackets to hold the can to the fender.

Since reading your post I've been thinking more along the lines of what you built. Having the round cut plate 1" bigger than the OD of the filter,then making my own can out of sheet metal or cut down plastic bucket with a funnel shaped end going into the Phscotty cowl location. An unloader could be added mainly for draining any water that may enter. The can would have to be removed for service and need a bracket also. Donaldson may already make a can similar to this that could be easily adapted,I was sort of waiting for you guys to come up with the right one! Donaldson makes all different configurations,my JD tractors have three different locations for the inlets depending on the model.

I don't see the service factor as being a problem,I have always wanted to use the inner filter also,and feel that with it in place for insurance that the tractor type filter would only need service every 100k,it's not like I'm pulling a harrow though dusty fields with my Dodge.

Another option someone may want to think on-I was checking out an after market housing & filter,that uses a tractor style element,on my friend's PSD. It's housing had three square sides and with a foam seal on the top,the hood was the forth side when it was closed. Made it very easy to eyeball the condition of the filter. Had ducting that pulled air from the grill area,which on our trucks would make the oil filter harder to get at.




[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 03-09-2001). ]

 

[Rambling]

Here's a guy using Donaldson air filters on a familiar looking engine family...
http://cgi2. x-pointcgi.com/~dieselrepower/SCOUT_CUMMINS_6AT3.html
http://cgi2. x-pointcgi.com/~dieselrepower/FORD_CUMMINS_6BTA5.html


Where to from here?

 

[HC]

I've been using the K&N RE-880 filter, but my silicon reached 9 after only 5,000 miles, which I felt was a little on the high side for no more miles than that. I added the foam pre-filter, and dropped it to less than 5 in 5,000 miles. With all the debate on K&N filters, I recommend those using them should have at least one oil analysis done just for peace of mind.
When I researched John Deere tractor filters, it looked like a basic design parameter is HUGE filters for relatively smaller engines, to keep the air velocities low enough that they can drop out some of the dust into a "sump" and thus get longer filter life. By the time I found a filter for a tractor engine of 5. 9 liters or larger, it was too big to fit under the hood, so I temporarily dropped the project. I'll be re-reading the above posts with great interest, because I think you guys putting tractor filters in are really on to a great idea, especially for those of us who find ourselves following someone on a dirt road!

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2001 ETH, QC, LWB, 4WD, 3. 54, SPA Pyro & Boost, K&N RE-880 w/foam pre-cleaner, ARE Z-series Cab-high shell, Rear ARB locker, and all kinds of synthetic fluids...

 

[Pete Peterson]

Top Fuel, without a picture its hard to say but from personal experience I have seen a few with some pretty rough casting, somewhat like you are discribing. Check a few others in the area and see if they all aren't about the same. Don't loose the faith K&N's are good filters. Pete

 

[illflem]

Top fuel,I'm with Pete. You didn't say if you had dust on the clean side of the filter such as in the intake tube to the turbo. The causes of dirt getting by the K&Ns are usually a poor seal around gasket,followed by a damaged filter gauze sometimes from the factory,but most often caused by improper cleaning,usually with compressed air. If you hold the filter up to the sun and see large spots of light coming though,can it. Try an Amsoil filter,folks have had good luck with them. I've used a stock paper filter while my K&N is drying after servicing and hate it,it definitely makes a difference in performance.

 

[Archive]

Pete, this was really eating at me so I fired up my MUCH quieter MUCH less fun to drive truck and went down to the dealership. I nabbed a salesman and we popped the hood on a brand new 2001. Removed the intake boot from the turbo... . and sure enough there's a groove cut into the compressor housing inlet right behind the leading edge of the blades. It doesn't have the ROUGH "done by a 8 year old with a dremel tool" look that mine does, but it IS there. I've never noticed that on any other Cummins I maintain. (L-10,M-11,N-14) So I assume it must be another noise reduction trick from the Holset engineers. Illflem, my old K&N was serviced once when I modified the lower air box housing. (I run with 32lbs. of boost) I CAN see a couple of small holes in the folds of the pleating. (100 watt light bulb) I'll take the blame for that and throw it away. Next move?????... ... I'm not sure yet but the paper filter in there now has really cut down on my fun... ...

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1999 White SLT Dually Auto 4:10 Posi. NOT BOMBED... ... ... ... (very much) 28,000 miles

 

[Pete Peterson]

T F, well at least you settled it in your own mind that it is common for the poor workmanship to be on alot of these turbos. It really isn't hurting anything.

I know what you mean about the noise, I had the K&N in my 99 and no problems. But now I've got 3 brand new Fleetguards In the garage #ad
I even have the K&N out of the 99 but I never planned on cleaning it I was just going to replace it every year. Just remember that they are a good filter, go get another one and enjoy the noise. !!!!!Pete

 

[Archive]

I ran a K&N in the stock air box for 24,000 miles. Last week I removed the intake hose and inspected the compressor wheel and housing and I didn't like what I saw. There were visible signs of erosion on the leading edges of my compressor wheel blades. The compressor housing itself has material scoured away from around the inlet 1/4" behind the leading edge of the compressor blades. Anyone else seen this happen? I have been a diehard K&N convert, but this has put me back in with the paper crowd.

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1999 White SLT Dually Auto 4:10 Posi. NOT BOMBED... ... ... ... (very much) 28,000 miles