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K&N Makes Air Cabin Filters - Reusable

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what body changes on 3500 from 2020 to 2021 CC LB?

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I put one in my Wife’s Tacoma,I need to order the cleaner kit for it one of theses days.

Copy, I ordered it for my 2017... I think it should work fine. I'm going to start another thread when I get ready on installing a condenser clean out hose and valve. We have fine pollen and dust from our gravel road that gets on tu he condenser and get a musty odor.

Cheers, Ron
 
You left that filter in for a full four years?
It is recommended to exchange it annually. So do I and have never a bad smell that way.
 
You left that filter in for a full four years?
It is recommended to exchange it annually. So do I and have never a bad smell that way.
EDIT: I'm still smiling. good catch on words
;)
Maybe I should have said "...time to change it AGAIN." Yes I change mine about every 8 months... in fact searching Intenet for best price on replacement one when I found the KN one.

It’ll dust your blower motor. They’re a proven cause of premature blower motor failure. ;)

Yes sir. I know all about KN killing components downstream, like turbos. My former 2003 Ram 2500 still has the original KN in it with over 250K miles.

Thanks for the warning... I'll post whenever it kills my fan.:p:D

Thanks all for the comments... that's why I posted and what TDR is all about.

Cheers, Ron
 
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Friends

Not going to edit again, but wanted to put a plug in for Genos Garage and their air inlet filter. It works well and prevents a lot of stuff from getting by. Our 2019 Ram 1500 is the worst of our fleet to get moldy smell. Wife took it in for one of free oil changes and mentioned the odor. Just had replaced hers with one with Fabreeze in it, but still had slight musty smell. Dealer flushed it for $150 about 3 months ago, and noticed slight odor again.

I used to have to flush previous vehicles over the past 30 years, due to talcum powder consistency of our gravel road dust and whatever allergen floating around. I attached about a 2ft heater hose to the AC drain, inverted it, poured hot water with Lysol into it, then drove around a day or two, then drained it. Smelled like a hospital for several days but worked great. Now Fabreeze is better. Gonna measure drain tubes, but the hose and clamps, and install. For me, this is approximately annual maint requirement.

Anyhoo, got ideas to improve the project and will post a separate thread on it.

Cheers, Ron
 
The K&N will dust your engine from the comfort of the cab. :p (I have seen them foul up idle air controls with dust on gas engines to where they can’t idle. )

The make a product called BG Frigi-Fresh® and others to kill the stuff growing on the evaporator. I don’t know if RAM offers “after-blow” kits that run the fan every now and then after key off like GM. Dries the evap to help with odor.

https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/climate-control/bg-frigi-clean/#bg-product-1

Some of the cabin air filters I removed reek and the #1 reason I would not want to reuse a moldy stinky filter.
 
Friends,

I knew posting this would get these responses and that's ok. It's the TDR. First truck I wasn't able to install a KN air filter on was my 09 4500, the MAP or MAF didn't like it flowing too much airflow and would set a code, even the dry BAAF would. So from then to now, only vehicle that has one is my 14 Jeep Wrangler, no problems.

I dont mind the opinions, that's why I posted. ;):D

Cheers with your dry cabin filters:p:D

Ron
 
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The K&N will dust your engine from the comfort of the cab. :p (I have seen them foul up idle air controls with dust on gas engines to where they can’t idle. )

Some of the cabin air filters I removed reek and the #1 reason I would not want to reuse a moldy stinky filter.

T,

I know, I have seen them dusted too, but not mine. Some folks over oiled and some folks didn't oil them.... light oil did the trick. Kinda mute for me now as stock filters and air boxes are better engineered for optimal flow. Not trying to sell or convince anyone here, just worked for me.

Thanks to modern disinfecting techniques like washing in hot water with antibacterial dish soap, let completely dry, and properly oil. Easy Peasie.

Not for everyone and nothing wrong with that. It's due in today and might take pics, if I install it today.

Relocating both rear brakeline brackets on my 2015 DRV, just like the manufacturer did on new models, that's another story I'll tell later in the RV Forum.

Thanks for sharing, Ron
 
I was just poking fun at the K&N wars that have happened here. I meant no offense. I’m glad you’ve had good service from your K&N. I’ve run several in my bikes years ago and even a couple of my gasser trucks.
 
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I was just poking fun at the K&N wars that have happened here. I meant no offense. I’m glad you’ve had good service from your K&N. I’ve run several in my bikes years ago and even a couple of my gasser truck.

BP,
No offense taken... I caught the humor, but like to address the comments because there was truth in it. To be honest, i believe many of them were over oiled from the factory with them very wet in the cellophane wrapper. I've actually wiped em down new before installing them.

You know what's funny is I've been trying to explain to my nephew is why he keeps replacing MAP/MAF sensor on his 2008 Grand Cherokee that keeps getting gunked up. I told him to clean them with soapy water... he used carburetor cleaner, which I believe ruined them. I mentioned cleaning intake tube and reinstalling stock air box to prove it's the over oiled AFE. He dont believe me, so gotta let it go and let him replace them every 4 to 6 months. :eek: His dad believes it blow by in the PCV, but cant explain why its in the air filter housing and intake air tube. Drives me nuts.o_O

Pretty funny, huh?:D It is to me ;):D Its all good in Pleasantville.:cool:

Cheers, Ron
 
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