Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) KDP...Claims Another!!!

[holmanrd]

Well I put it off too long. Picked up my daughter from school & saw an oil leak. When I got home I checked with a light and mirror, didn't see any cracks so I thought my crank seal was leaking. I had no time to change a seal so I took it to a local shop to fix the seal and tab my KDP.



He just called, Yep the KDP got me. There is a 1" hole in the case. I quess the $300. 00 to go in and fix the seal & tab it is out the window.



Can any one please help me with the best (cheapest) place to get the repair parts, gear case etc. Heck should I throw in a new cam while I am at it? Any one want to make a quess on the total cost before I hear back from my mechanic?



And for those of you who are waiting on the fence. DO IT NOW!!! Do it yourself, take it to a mechanic, find a buddy, anything. It will be a lot cheaper to do it now rather than fix the carnage it will cause if it fails.



Man, there goes my transmission money!

 

[Suprmn]

Sorry to hear this. I have been shakin in my boots. I have a 97 with 106K that I am pretty sure has not been tabbed before, but I literally dont have the time right now to go after it. Fingers Crossed.



I would guess about $1,350 to get'er fixed. :{

 

[Joe G.]

Any of you procrastinators that are getting nervous about the KDP email me for the instructions to fix it at -- email address removed -- . Total parts cost from Cummins for the seal and gasket is less than $30. Twice that at Dodge. You have been warned!!

 

[BTighe]

joes instructions are easy to fallow too. think you dont have time now just ask holmanrd how long he goes without his rig. i started mine on a friday night and finished on sat morning. there are tons of members in you area that could probably help. hope it dont get you too.



thanks again joe.

 

[TMitch]

When I bought my truck last year with 50k on it, it was the first thing I did.

Guess what? It was hanging 2/3's of the way out. I sleep much better at night now! If you feel lucky buy a lottery ticket, but don't gamble with the KDP.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I hate to seem unsympathetic - and new guys (as Holmanerd seems to be) who are unfamiliar with the potential trouble spots in these trucks DO have an excuse...



Relative old timers do NOT!



The KDP issue has REPEATABLY surfaced and REsurfaced here MANY times - just as has the issue of guages and attention to fuel delivery problems over on the 24-valve side - and STILL we see guys who procrastinate, don't have the time and money to take well known precautions...



Funny thing tho', they suddenly DO find the time and $$$ when the predictable disaster DOES strike...



Would you onlookers REALLY rather pay MORE later, than a little bit NOW?



Choose wisely, Grasshopper...

 

[holmanrd]

You know, I am realatively new but I read on the TDR enough to know I should do it. No sympathy needed here, I took a chance and it came back to kick me in the... well you know. I read many times the great info. and advice that people were given, but did not heed the warning.



I do thank JoeG and the others because I at least had an idea of what was going on. But that in it-self leaves only me to blame. Please, do not put it off if you are like me and undecided. (Was undecided. ) My total so far without knowing the full extent of the damage should be compelling enough.



Running total with tear down still in process= $3,000. 00

(This total is with a rush on the job to have it done in 2-3 days)

 

[jpogue]

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I recently did mine I got lucky and put off for a year after I heard about the KDP. After 115,000 miles it hadn't backed out at all but I sure sleep better now. Which years are affected by the KDP or is this an ongoing problem? My friend just bought a 2000 2wd with the 24valve do these trucks also have the KDP issue?

 

[holmanrd]

jpogue, From my recollection (Still a little fuzzy from KDP shock) I think they changed the cases in late '99. Please correct me if I am wrong for I would hate to mis-lead someone into my situation.

 

[BTighe]

didnt they change the case in 99 but still used the old stock up to as late as 01

 

[JGK]

... Can any one please help me with the best (cheapest) place to get the repair parts, gear case etc. Heck should I throw in a new cam while I am at it? Any one want to make a quess on the total cost before I hear back from my mechanic?...

You'll save money getting the case and gaskets from Cummins rather than Dodge. That's a given. You may find them a bit cheaper from a 3rd party but not by much. Perhaps Piers or someone like that. Otherwise, just go to Cummins.



As to the cam, well, while I didn't see a big change, I did put in a PDR cam when I pulled the case on mine to fix a gasket leak (not a KDP issue). I had the money and wanted to see what it did for me. It was a good excuse for doing another BOMB!



Cost: hmmm... Seems to me the case is about $300 (someone correct me). Gaskets and seals will be something like $50 or $80 bucks (been a year since I fixed my leak - can't remember exactly). But it takes a lot of time. You have to remove the radiator and intercooler, front bumper, injection pump, lift pump, vacuum/PS pump, etc. Most have pulled the cam when replacing the case, which means removing the rockers and using wood dowels to hold up the lifters. But lately a few have been pulling the gear off the end of the cam, leaving the cam in place, then heating the gear to slip it back on the cam. That saves some time, but you have to be real careful heating that gear so you don't crack it and you can't force it on or you might push the seal out the back on the end of the cam. On the other hand, if you replace the cam with an upgrade, you have to move the gear from the old to the new, which requires a press or heating the gear to put it on. So its a trade off.



The bottom line here is that other than the case and gaskets, the cost is not bad. Its the labor that kills you. I've heard quotes of $2000 to $3000 to have a mechanic do it.



-Jay

 

[LBrazdys]

I dont get it with KDP failures... ... ... ..... Why would Cummins expose themselves to such a design oversight? I have 96 4x4 reg cab auto all stock... ..... with 327,000 miles on it. Never touched the engine and it has the original trans. Its been slick 50'd twice and Rotella, Mobil1 and Amsoil is all I ever ran. Am I lucky or is that little pin in the pan somewhere?

 

[CumminsPower98]

Not all the pins are loose but there is no way to tell which ones will fail and which ones will stay there forever so the best thing to do is fix it and no more loosing sleep. All three of the ones I fixed had moved slightly assuming they were bottomed at the factory and my Uncle's was about to fall out when he had a shop fix it!

 

[MGarland]

This project is not hard at all, the first one I did was my 96 and it took me 2. 5 hours and that was stopping for 1 beer break. It seems to me that the 60 buck that TST charges for all the parts and the instructions is a lot cheaper than the alternitive. Any body that is on the fence about doing this it only takes a little time and very little money.

Mark

 

[Jim Fulmer]

But lately a few have been pulling the gear off the end of the cam, leaving the cam in place, then heating the gear to slip it back on the cam. That saves some time, but you have to be real careful heating that gear so you don't crack it and you can't force it on or you might push the seal out the back on the end of the cam. On the other hand, if you replace the cam with an upgrade, you have to move the gear from the old to the new, which requires a press or heating the gear to put it on.





I wouldn't go there, pull the cam out and do it right. Remember the pic a few weeks ago of the broken cam gear because it was heated too much. The job is just painful, deal with it. I don't like cam jobs that I'm not getting paid for but I would do one in a heartbeat for money..... it's worth about $750-800 in labor.



Jim

 

[WyattEarp]

Is there a way to check the dowel pin with some type of light and mirror setup that can be worked into the crank cover? Just curious.

 

[tp0d]

The KDP Jig is an easy way to be sure about any KDP, even a 99 or 2000. Takes about an hour or less to do, with no mess. Some dont agree its worth it, but if you lack time, it can take the KDP problem out of the picture quickly. There are a few bolts in the case though, that could come loose, but I havent heard of that problem in quite a long time. Possibly one occurance.



The NorthEast Jig is available for anyone that needs to use it, nationwide. All you are responsible for is shipping with insurance to the next guy. (and I recommend a donation to the creator of the jig). I jigged my truck, and 25k later, no problems. Jigged my dad's old 99, his pin was 1/8" out, but we pushed it back in thru the jig hole.



PM me if you're interested in using the jig



-j

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

327,000 miles on it. Never touched the engine

Cool, a guy who likes to live life on the edge. :-laf



I just could rest (drive) comfortably until I tabbed the 97 I bought with 132K on the clock. It was nagging me worse than a frigid barren liberal wife married to an honest conservative guy, or something to that affect. Took half a day and changed the drive belt whilst I was at it. Definately worth the peace of mind.

 

[WyattEarp]

I to plan on doing it, right now i can't with the weather thats going on, snowing here right now again. I think me and other members nearby will take care of this problem as there are several, I read that you have to remove inj. pump is this correct?, i can't see that, only thing i see is radiator, fan and then pulling the cover off to expose the little booger(KDP), or am i wrong?

 

[Matthug]

You don't even have to pull the radiator let alone the injection pump to just tab the KDP. After reading this thread, I'm going down to my garage right now and do it. I've had the TST kit for a month now.