Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) kdp damage parts list needed

[Heetseeker_1]

Hey guys, a fellow rammer is looking at quite a fix on his 97' after the kdp did it's nasty little deed. I know alot of you have done this so could you see if you could drum up the part numbers for us?... . Also, he is going at this job at home so an instruction list might be helpful. I'm sure i'll be wrenching on it very soon. .



Thanks,



Steve.

 

[eberga]

I just completed the fix last week on my truck. Start by taking the fan off, 1 1/2 wrench left handed threads. I used a pipe wrench to hold the pulley, this was the only way I could break it loose. Then bumper, radiator, and intercooler. Next take the valve covers(15mm) off then remove the rockers(13mm and 18mm) and push rods. To remove the push rods from the number 5 and 6 cylinders you need to take the wipers off and remove the plastic molding below the windshield. Under this are two rubber plugs to bring the push rods through. Remove harmonic balancer and fan pulley. Remove lift pump(10mm). Take front cover off. Now you need 12 1/2" wooden dowels about 1' long. Split one end about 1" up with a hacksaw or jigsaw and then sharpen. These are used to raise the lifters off the cam. Tap them with a hammer to make sure they are securely in the lifters and then pull them up and rubberband the sticks together to keep them up. Make a mark on your pump timing gear and shaft to make sure dont move the timing. (When you reinstall the pump gear clean the gear and shaft really good with brake cleaner and air. Then torque it to about 150 lbs. ) Loosen the nut holding the pump gear (1 3/16) and use a gear puller to remove the gear. Now remove the bolts holding the cam. (12mm?) Slide the cam out, go slow, once everything is loose it slides right out. Now you are ready to remove the old case. There are 4 nuts(15mm) that hold the case to the pump. Two are easy to get to and the other two are hard to access, between the pump and the head. These require a 15mm socket with a wobbly drive built on and a long extension. Then the two bolts that hold the vacuum pump. Now the old case is ready to come off. Remove the timing pin and the 4 studs from the old case and transfer them to the new case. The cummins dealer will need the s/n from the engine to order the case, my part numbers were as follows: case 3936256, valve cover gaskets 3930906 and o-rings for the bolts 3910824, gasket between block and case 3938156, o-ring around fuel pump 3924605. You will also need a new crank seal. This isnt a compete parts list I will look for the other receipts and post the other numbers when I find them. The cummins dealer should be able to set you up with all you need. Hope this helps, Good Luck!

 

[illflem]

Here's an overveiw of the project with pictures-

http://www.flex.net/~triplem/new/dowelpin.htm



One important thing they fail to mention is that the lift pump must be removed before pulling the cam.

 

[bighammer]

I would first determine if the front cover or rear part of the timing case seems to have the damage. If it's only the front cover, you don't need to pull the whole front end and cam out. If you're lucky, you'll just need a new cover, gasket and seal. It becomes a MUCH larger job if the rear of the case has the damage.

 

[JTeague]

I've personally have fixed 8 trucks that have dorpped the dowel pin. None have ever done damage to the cover. The case will be busted right under the fan Idler pulley when the pin falls out. Remove the fan Idler bracket (4 10mm bolts) and it should be obvious. None have done any damage to the gears either. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Ben Rumson]

I have part numbers, instructions, photos, etc.

I'll be heading out for the weekend, but if you PM me with your E-MAIL ADDRESS, I'll send you a Word Document that has almost everyting you'll need from, photos and instructions, hints, helps, part numbers, prices, etc.



- Ben

 

[Heetseeker_1]

the pin is in?

Awesome info guys... My buddy got into the front cover to assess the damage we thought would be there and to his amazement, the kdp was STILL IN!!!!! I didn't know what to say but sh**. He is blocking the KDP while he is in there with instructions from our brothers here in the TDR as we speak, but we were sure that was the issue we were facing. Now, we chase where the loud knocking is comming from. I "know" he didn't break a hard part like a rod... . his wife was driving it slowly as usual when it happened. A sudden "knocking" and white smoke from the vent tube?? Perhaps an injector went south. We hate to start replacing parts to find the problem (hmmm) but we might just put a different set of injectors in to see what happens. This did happen a couple of days after a fuel filter change... ???





We will keep at it until we find the problem or have more power through upgraded injectors or, hopefully, both.



Steve.

 

[Joe G.]

Check to see if you have an injector miss by loosening the injector line nut and see if that causes a miss. If it does not then that injector is just along for the ride. If you find one like that swap it with another. If the problem moves with the injector you have a bad injector. If it does not move then you have some sort of problem with the injector pump. If there is no injector that is causing a miss I would look somewhere else. I don't think an injector would cause a low speed knock.