Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) KDP damage

[eberga]

Does anyone have any tips on breaking the nut loose on the pump timing gear.

 

[Andy Redmond]

Put a cheater bar on your breaker bar It's sure to outsmart it!

 

[illflem]

Be careful with too much torque removing it. I've never seen it happen with the timing gear but on other hard to remove nuts a ton of torque has taken the nut off along with the male threads on the shaft. Sure don't want that happening to your injection pump. Before you get carried away with a cheater bar try applying a little heat to the nut.

 

[eberga]

How in the world are you supposed to get the two nuts between the pump and block that hold the case to the pump. A bent wrench could probably work on the top one but any suggestions on the bottom one would be greatly appreciated. This is the only thing left standing in the way of getting my truck back together. I am sick of driving my brother in laws jeep. Thanks for all the help.

 

[A Johnson]

I use a 3/8" drive socket with a u-joint in it, on the end of 15 inch extension that has the diamond drive end on the extension to break it loose, and then take it off with a 1/4" drive wobbly and 1/4" extension. It is a 15mm nut size. Maybe a trip to NAPA or Sears is in order?



A Johnson

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Heating the nut a lot could detemper the threads on the shaft as well. You certainly can expect to smoke out all the lube and that can cause thread galling when you try to loosen the nut. I have always had success using a long cheater pipe, breaker bar or long 1/2" drive ratchet, and 30 mm socket.



Sears, SnapOn etc. can sell you a ong 3/8" drive extension and a wobbly with 15mm socket built into it.

 

[WDaniels]

To all,

As Bill said, I pulled my gear without pulling the cam. The only problem was that I could not put the gear back on for love nor money. I heated the gear up to over 350 degrees and cooled the cam with dry ice. It would only go on about 1/3 of the way. I tried about 7 times until my dry ice was gone. Ended up pulling the cam and doing all the related work. Bummer. If anyone else is interested, I am making a tappet holder to eliminate those stupid sticks. It is a positive lock and will not drop the tappet, and if YOU do, it will be able to retrieve it without pulling the oil pan. When I finish it it will be given to illflem for the tdr and you may contact him just like the kdp kit to get it.

WD

 

[eberga]

Well I conquered the two nuts between the pump and head, but now I have a rather simple question. How do you remove the windshield wipers. Most I have seen have a nut that is under a cover but I cant seem to raise the cover. There seems to be some sort of clip on the bottom side but I am not sure how to release it. One step closer to start putting things back together. Thanks for all the help.

 

[eberga]

OK everything is in order to pull the cam, I pulled it out to the first lobe and it hangs up. I rotated it almost 3/4 of a turn and it won't come out any farther. I double checked the lifters and they are all the way up. Anyone have any advice on removing the cam.

 

[Joe G.]

Did you remove the lift pump?

 

[eberga]

No I forgot about the lift pump. Also when I moved the cam forward I noticed a few drips of diesel coming from somewhere. Is this normal? I will go pull the lift pump and hopefully that solves the problem.

 

[Extreme1]

Thank you WDaniels! That kind of spirit makes this place the best!!

 

[eberga]

Well I got everything all put back together and cranked the engine over a few times. I got nothing but white smoke, it tried to catch a few times. I am afraid when I put the pump gear back on and tightened the nut I moved the timing. Does this sound correct? I guess setting the timing is in order. How much is the kit for setting the timing?

 

[Andy Redmond]

Less than $300. The Miller SPX diesel timing kit is what I have, although the Snap On kit is cheaper and a great tool kit too.





I take it the engine was not left at TDC and the pump was also not set to "tdc" to put the timing back to where it was?



On the side/bottom center of the injection pump. . look for a acorn "cap" nut, once it is loosened the oil will drain from the injection pump. Inside the cap is a plastic plug that slides over the pump tang to prevent any pump rotation for the r&r. Just filp the plug and insert it over the tang and reinstall the cap nut. Once the pump is installed, removed the plug and flip it so the long side is inside the nut.



Refill some of the lost oil. . approx a quart.



If the shaft was clean it shouldn't slip time, once everything is re-torq'd.



Good luck, Andy

 

[eberga]

No I left everything in the same position it was when I took it off. When I put the pump gear back on I tightened the nut and it slipped the shaft inside the gear. I didnt know how to keep the pump shaft from turning while tightening the nut.

 

[Joe G.]

Make SURE you clean the tapered shaft on the pump with brake cleaner. If there is any oil or dirt at all it WILL slip. After you tighten the nut almost up to torque, check the timing. If if has moved, note how much. Then loosen the gear and set the timing again taking the slippage into consideratioin so you set it off a bit so it slips to the timing you want. I had to allow for some slippage to get the timing I wanted on my '95. I think the condition is worse on the later model pumps.

 

[eberga]

Ok, I went to the local Cummins shop this morning and talked to the mechanics. They told to turn the engine over to TDC on #1 and then pull the gear on the pump. Then turn the pump till the pin in the side is lined up and flip the plastic cup and put the nut back on. They said that then the pump is in time. Is this the setting for the stock timing? It seems to me that if the engine and pump are both at TDC then the timing would be 0*. Is this correct? I am confused about how you can time the engine without taking the delivery valve out and using the dial indicator. I have never set the timing before and I am a little worried about the job. I can have it done at the cummins shop for 2 hours shop labor, this is less than the cost of the tools needed to do the job myself. All suggestions are welcome, I am thankful for the TDR, without the knowledge I have gained here I would have been out at least $1,000 for the KDP fix.

 

[Joe G.]

That adjustment is supposed (?) to set it to stock timing. The lift measurement is more accurate. It may take a few tries to get it right, but it's not hard. I just estimate how much slippage I'm going to have when I tighten the nut. Set the timeing that way. Then measure it to see what I have when I have it almost up to torque specs. If I missed I just do it again. Not that hard once you have the gear loose, the dial indicator in place, and the crank pully marked for TDC. Just make sure the tapered shaft is clean. Always mearsure it again when you think you are done.

 

[eberga]

I need help locating the cap nut on the side of the pump. I found a nut that is directly above the power steering pump filler cap and removed it. With the engine at tdc there is what looks like a small screwdriver blade about halfway visible, however the nut is just a plug, no plastic thing inside. Am I in the right place or not?

 

[eberga]

Anyone have any ideas? Am I on the right track, this is the only nut I see in the side of the pump. Somebody please help, I am very close to getting this thing running again. It has been down for two weeks now. Thanks