KDP hasn't moved, but glad I checked.

[moparguy]

Since I needed to replace the acc. drive belt, and the fan was off for the winter, decided to go ahead and pull the cover and check the KDP. To my horror, I couldn't see it, thought ON NO, it's already out dropped into the pan.



But, not the case, after checking with a mirror, it was in the proper flush position. Still, glad I checked, I've made a tab, used a old cutter blade off my hay mower and wiil reassemble as soon as the crank seal makes it to the local dealer.



As a PS, the bolt next to the KDP only requited 4 or 5 ft. lbs to remove, didn't put a torque wrench on it, but it sure wasn't tight.



The truck has a little over 90k on it.



As Tom Hanks once said, "That's one less thing to worry about".

 

[moparguy]

update

Well, the seal made it to the local Diamond International dealer (23. 95). I had already made a really slick looking tab, but decided to try adding a little extra security to the KDP before adding the tab.



With a sharp punch and using a mirror, I was able to drift metal around the KDP, actually making the hole hole smaller to the point that I don't feel there is any way it could ever get out. But as a little added insurance, I also used green, penetrating Locktite.



After looking everything over, decided to not add one more piece of metal to the cam gear area and left the tab out.



No problems with the rest of the button up.



RJR

 

[RHARVEY]

How much problem was it with the plastic guide on the crank gasket??? And how does it work. I have the kit at the house and Monday I will be taking care of the KDP with the help of a buddy that also has a 97. This way we learn on mine and then I make a trip over to his house and take care of his pin...

But I needed some more infromation on how the plastic guide works from someone that has done it...



Thanks

Rick

 

[Joe G.]

Rick,



Put the small end of the tool in the seal from the back side of the cover. Then work it carefully until the large end has entered the seal and expanded it. Then when you put the gear case cover on the engine it will pull off of the plastic tool easily. This works easier if you make a couple of guide pins for the cover by cutting the heads off some long screws. That will keep the cover straight when you install it. I wrecked the first seal before I thought of that.

 

[GLowe]

Put the seal in the freezer for a while and torch the cover a little to expand it or the seal is impossible to get in (at least mine was). It's a teflon seal and is stamped on it to install dry which seemed crazy to me but I cleaned the crank end and it isn't leaking yet!

 

[Joe G.]

The seal was not too hard to put in the cover after I figured it out. You are supposed to use a little blue loctite on the inside of the cover. The kit has a tool to use to press the seal in the correct depth. I used my bench vise and a block of wood to press with. It took a few trys, but not too bad.

 

[moparguy]

Rick, good advise above. And yes, after you've installed the cover with the new seal and with the protective seeve over the crank (big end on the crank, little end in the seal), it's a simple matter to pull the sleeve out.

 

[Deezul1]

The shop manual says to install the seal from the back side of the cover(inside) if the cover is off. It might have been an easier install for me if I had read the manual 1st instead of looking at the blurry instructions that came with the seal that showed it going on from outside with the cover in place.