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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) KDP installation a success

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:) Did my KDP this weekend. It hadn't moved at all,but I am glad I did it anyway. I was concerned about the seal installation sounded and looked harder than it was. And I only smashed 2 knuckles and one good scrape on forearm from removing shroud. But not too bad after all, well accept for the dog knocking over the bowl holding all the goodies I took off but nothing was missing I managed to find everything. Now for the upgrades, I am putting the gauges in tomorow and then I am having someone do the #10plate,3k springs, and timing for me on wed. ,then the trans. on thurs. ATS all the way. I can't wait til it's all done :D .
 
Sounds like you didn't use the jig remedy but pulled the cover to fix the pin problem. If a guy uses the jig, drill, tap,plug solution, how does he know the pin is in the hole when he does the job? The pin could already be in the bottom of the gearcase, right? Just thought I'd ask, since you have probably mulled all this over. I have a '96 with a virgin dowl pin, and am preparing to go after it.



'96 2500,354gears,PAC brake,4" exhaust,reworked AT and high miles
 
If the pin has moved, usually you see it or can feel it with the drill bit after you've drilled the case. Some have then drilled the case (tiny hole) and used a small diameter punch to tap it in. But then you have a small hole to somehow plug. Most just remove the case if the pin is out, tap it in, then either tab it or use the screw to block it.



Now if its managed to come out and simply drop to the bottom of the case without doing any damage, you've been EXTREMELY lucky :eek: That is very rare. The rotation of the gear just below the pin carries it between the gear and the case. To have it pass through without damage is like winning a mega-bucks jackpot. But if it did you now have to decide if you want to just leave it in the bottom of the case or pop the cover and get it out.



So how can you determine? After drilling the case, you might see it with a bore scope. You might try fishing a stiff wire with a bend in it through the case to see if you can find an empty hole. That's about your only choices.



Odds are, if you don't feel it in the way after drilling the hole, it's probably right where it should be.



-Jay
 
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Take the time to pull the cover. It's not that bad just time consuming. One of the worst things was removing the coolant tank and washer tank,I chose not to remove the washer tank just wired it out of the way with a coat hanger. The crank seal installation seemed a little intimidating but isn't that hard, and the TST kit has fantastic step by step instrucions. By pulling the cover you can also check the other bolts inside and check your drive belt crank seal and other stuff.
 
Do you have to pull the radiators to pull the cover and do the job from the front? Or is there enough room to do the job without all that ? If the worst thing was dealilng with the coolant and washer tank you probably did not pull the radiators. To not have to do that would be great.
 
No, you do not have to pull the radiator/intercooler/AC condenser/etc. It's not ideal, but you have plenty of room to tab the KDP and check/tighten the bolts.



-Jay
 
High miles,



E-mail me at -- email address removed -- for instructions on how to do the job.
 
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