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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) KDP questions and opinions????

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If you have followed any of my recent posts, you know I have just recently purchased a 1997 3500,4x4, 5speed with cummins. I have been reading and readin about the "kdp" issue on some of these trucks, and the procedures to rectfy the "possible" problem before it occurs. I ran all this by my brother-in-law over the easter weekend, sent him numerous articles I have saved from all over the web, and several differant comments from this site. I was hoping to get him to "assist" me in doing the tab fix in the near future. The reason I was visiting with him, is he used to me head mechanic for one of the districts in the state of Kansas for KDOT. He has since moved up from the mechanic position into some type of bridge consultant for the state. Anyway, he has plenty of tools in his garage, plus he always loved the diesel motors he worked on. This is his email he sent me pertaining to the "kdp" problem.....



"Jim;

KDOT has about 300 pickups with that engine in them. 0 (zero) have had the killer dowel pin issue you are wondering about. What I have read about it seems to be rare instances. I don't think that I myself would worry about it. Other things (nothing serious) will probably occur first. Let me know what you think. Chas. "



I'm thinking that he probably is "busy" and doesnt want to mess with helping me. My response to him, was maybe it isnt a problem with a large amount of Dodge trucks in this vintage, but the problem does occur, so why not spend the $50 or so, plus 4-5 hours, and make sure it doesnt occur on my truck, and have peace of mind?. . I haven't heard his response(he lives about 150 miles away). I'm sure EVERYONE on this site recommends to do the procedure, am I correct? I may just try and do it myself, I'm a farmer/rancher so am not a "rookie" at doing repairs around engines of all sorts, but I just thought it would be nice to have him to assist, as he was a diesel mechanic.

coadman
 
Yeah your right, why chance it. $50 is alot better than $5000 for a new motor.



It's really pretty simple as it doesn't require anything special other than a fan wrench and the tab or jig. Do a search to see if there is a KDP jig available in your area, thats how I did mine. YOu usually only just have to pay shipping to use it.



Nathan
 
What kind of repair were you thinking ?? There is the tab method wich would involve taking the fan shroud, fan, fan support hub, harmonic balancer, front cover (good idea to replace gasket and crank seal). The good thing about doing it this way is there are 5 bolts in there that 'could' fall out as well. You can only get to 4 of them (if memory serves me correctly) Pull all 4 out and lock-tite them. Buy the kit from someone like TST, or PDR (i think they sell them).



There is also a Jig method. This involves pulling fan (i think) and pulling the alternator, 2 bolts out of the front cover and installing the jig on the 2 front bolts and drilling into the timing case and installing a cap screw to hold the pin. If the pin has worked it's way out far enough this method is about worthless.



I spent the extra time and done job #1. More thorough and don't have to worry about the bolts backing out either.



Don't listen to your out-law. Just do the job and don't worry about it anymore. Or pay someone to help you or do it for you.



Good luck

Curtis
 
coad man, DO IT no questions. . dont get worried about the process of doing it, its not hard , ive done quite a few kdp fixes, there not hard, the hardest part is taking out the crank shaft seal and carefully installing the new one in the cover plate, (this is not the jig, its the fan removal and cover removal method) every one that i have worked on has moved a minimum of a 1/4 inch, thats a substancial move. I ve seen one go just a a guy started his trck, he heard a clunk and thought nothing of it, drove it to the shop (5 mins away thank goodness) and got out and saw a huge puddle of oil under the engine. The pin thankfully went to the right breaking the case, a clean chunk broke out, if it went to the right we all know that cam shafts are expensive. the easiest way to do it is to remove the fan and cover , then pound teh pin back in, use the washer kit to hold it there, its never gonna move, dont know what method your going to do, sorry if this si all repetition, make sure you have a new crankshaft seal and cover gasket ready and you'll be done in no time. Im farmer too and if theres a qualified guy to do it himself its a farmer. . :) Its a minimum $1000 (cdn dollar) fix if you dont..... do it now. . good luck get to it you never know when shes gonna go.
 
I was referring to do the "tab" method, and will probably order the kit from TST. It doesnt look too hard, as much as I have read on the topic. Just take some time, plus making sure the seal is installed correctly, was probably my biggest worry.

coadman



PS, I still have about 19 days left from the 30 day warranty the dealership stuck on the truck when I bought it, so I feel like I am driving on "borrowed" time, so to speak. I definitely want to get to it, before their 30 day warranty is up(yes it does include engine and powertrain)
 
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If you buy the gaskets and seal kit from Cummins it's about half what you pay at Dodge. Less than $30. You can make the tab pretty easy so you don't need to order it. If you want e-mail me for the instructions to do the job at -- email address removed -- . If you hurry you can do the job in two hours. If you are old and slow and drink coffee and tell stories like me it will take four hours. Putting the seal in the cover tends to exercise your vocabulary.
 
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Hardest part of the job is getting the washer and rad overflow bottles off. It really is easy, and you probably have 150k on the front seal ( I didn't see any info on your truck so I am guessing ;) ) and need a new one anyway.

Find out in advance the size of the bolt that the tab will go on a get one a touch longer you can make the Tab from a piece of thin (1/8") steel or a fender washer and a grinder.
 
only have 68,000 miles on truck, so seals probably ok, but will replace it, if/when I remove the gear case cover.

coadman
 
If you fill in your location there is a possibiity that there is someone in your neighborhood that has done it and would give hou a hand.
 
dont worry, its a piece of cake. i used the instructions that joe mailed me and it took me about 8-10 hrs. about 3 of those was pulling the fan nut with a small pipe wrench, floor chisle, and a hammer. i have very little self taught mechanical experiance and am only twenty. you should be able to do it in half the time. a brick chisel or 3" putty knife makes pulling the washer fluid bottle a breeze. might replace the belt since its off anyways. its also helps to loosen the fan nut before you remove the belt as it helps to hold the pulley. enjoy, it nice to take that drive after you finish this fix :)
 
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