Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) KDP tab fix warning

[illflem]

A non-tdr member contacted me this morning with some scary news. He had used a sawzall blade for his tab so he didn't have to use a longer bolt four months ago. He removed the cover yesterday to find the tab cracked all along the side of the bolt edge facing the pin and the pin protruding past were he had pounded it down flush. It was 1/4" out when first tabbed and had almost made it out that far again. Since I haven't seen it I'm just assuming that either torqueing the bolt down or the pin trying to escape caused the crack. #ad
Warning is that it might be a good idea to use a thicker, milder piece of steel for the tab. I know some folks here have reported using sawzall blades...

 

['956Wheel]

Bill,



I am not surprised of the sawzall blade cracking. How many blades have you broke under normal use? The tab should not be made of a material as hard as a sawzall blade. The pin did not break it, it broke itself!



Now I am ready to read all the "testimonials" of just how great the blades are for this fix! Problem here is many members will never listen to experience.



There are those who used Titanium, Stainless, and an array of what they believe to be "the best". The pin is not hydraulically operated it just slides out and needs to be retained.



I tried to find and use the heat resistant tiles off a retired Apollo

space capsule but couldn't get one so I used a fender washer.



Mike

 

[Extreme1]

Originally posted by '956Wheel

I tried to find and use the heat resistant tiles off a retired Apollo

space capsule but couldn't get one so I used a fender washer.

LOL!



I agree, I have a plasma cutter and a sheet of . 120 hot rolled and I bought a longer bolt. Blades are too brittle for this application. Ductility is good!

 

[Cousin Billy]

A friend of mine killed his today in my garage. His 97 has a little over 100,000 on it and the pin was out past the case one-eigth to three-sixteenths. He used a piece of scrap stainless about a sixteenth thick with a longer bolt.

I think the 4000 springs rpm capbilities made him a little nervous. Two to three hour job including a new front crank seal. Piece of mind is sure worth a few hours of work!!

 

[C Schomer]

Mine was out about 1/16" past the case at 50k miles. I figured, as tight as it drove back in, it comes out with considerable force. I cut a tab out of 1/4" flat stock. It's eggshaped - about 7/8" on the bolt end and is ground to fit snugly into the pocket surrounding the left and top of the pin. BTW, when I put the fan back on, I gave the nut a few good thumps to tighten it rather than just hand tight. It was on there so tight, I splintered a block of wood that I held against the fan wrench to beat on. I'd hate to see the engine stop quicker than that fan clutch (most likely on a cold day) and have the fan spin off and eat my radiator! Craig

 

[Jim Fulmer]

I sure hope my 10 guage steel didn't move, I'll check it when I pull the cover for the *** change. Thanks for the info Illflem.



Jim

 

[R.ebel]

KDP tab

To all those that have gotten tabs from me. Fear not, the 4130 chromoly is in the normalized state (not hardend) for this vary reason.