Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) KDP Tabbed, but need help with seal

[WAHarrison]

Tore down the truck today to tab the KDP, and found it about 0. 125" outside the case. So it would have not have been too long before it was in the gears. It is a 94 with 102K.



I am having touble getting the seal to go over the shaft. Can not figure out how the plastic sleeve that comes with the seal is to be used. If you put the small end of plastic sleeve into the seal and them try to line it up, I have not have had any luck. If you reverse the plastic sleeve and place the large end on the shaft, it would provide for alignment, but the large end is too big to come through the seal with out making it oversize.



Some one has to have a trick that I have not thought of, or seen in any of the threads.



Thanks in advance. Also pulling the fuel tank and replacing the sending unit with a new one with bronze pivots.

 

[onestackdram]

I did mine a few weeks ago, and I used the small end of the sleeve towards the motor, the trick is to have some one on the top side to "hold" the weight of the cover. then it will take a little umph to get it to slide on shaft.



Russell

 

[Joe G.]

Make a couple of alignment pins to support the cover in place while you get the seal on the crank correctly.

 

[Howard Durand]

I did the KDP thing about a year ago. It was out about 1/8".



I tried installing the seal in the cover before replacing the cover on the engine but finally gave it up.

I was alone and couldn't get the cover and gasket in place and line up the seal at the same time so I removed the seal and installed the cover on the engine then put the seal in using the vibration dampner to press it in place.



The plastic guide goes into the seal with the small end toward the engine.



Joe's suggestion of using guide pins would work too.

 

[JNailor]

front seal

When I did mine I started the seal into the cover with my bench vise to get it square. Then tapped it to the correct depth with the installer tool. It should be roughly 1/8 inch below the opening in the cover. The flat side of the metal part of the seal goes toward the front. The big end of the plastic sleeve goes over the crank snout, then gently slide the seal onto it. Put bolts in hand tight then pull out plastic sleeve. The teflon seal will settle back onto the crank. Make sure there is no oil on the crank or seal. Mine doesn't leak a drop.



Dana



ps... Make sure you are putting the seal in from the outside of the cover!!

 

[Joe G.]

I think I read in another post recently that Cummins has decided that the installer depth tool is not a good idea. If it is used then the seal will be at EXACTLY the same place as the old seal. It's better to be a little off to so a fresh surface on the crank is used. Less chance of a leak that way.

 

[Extreme1]

I installed my seal flush on the front cover (new wear spot on the shaft) and when I slid the cover on, the plastic liner popped out the front of the seal when it bottomed out. No problems.



Maybe they changed the liner? Mine was in the seal when I opened the box.

 

[johnrv4]

I did the same thing Dana did above

I did the same as Dana above. I put the big end over the crank and slid the seal over it. I left it that way until I tightened the bolts on the front cover. Then I removed the installer and let the Teflon seal relax overnight. The reason I did it that way was because I noticed there are no dowel pins aligning the front cover, so I figure the installation tool would help keep the seal centered(until the bolts were tight).

 

[WAHarrison]

What I finaly did

After an 80 mile trip to get new seal, this is what I came up with. I was not happy with the plastic sleeve so I decedied to make my own. I measured the crank and it is 2. 500", so I machined an aluminum sleeve that was 2. 510 ID and about 0. 007" thick ( everyone should have at least one lathe). The sleeve was placed in the seal without expanding the seal too much. The seal and the sleeve was pressed into the housing and then the housing was placed on the engine. The sleeve slid over the crank and held the lips of the seal out of the way. once the cover was bolted in place, the sleeve was removed, and the seal was in place without being beat up.



This made the installation a snap, why a similar sleeve is not provided instead of the plastic thing is crazy to me.



Cranked and ran engine for several minuets and no sign of a leak yet. I have now removed the fuel tank to replace the sending unit. I is worn out on the pivot just like a previous thread said it would be.



I am in the process of rebuilding the sending unit with a stainless pivot and brass bushing on the pivot. Hope this will last longer than the first one did. Of intrest, I did find H2O in the tank, and most of the old float was gone, wonder where it went?



Thanks for the help guys.



PS.

If someone wants to borrow the sleeve to use, I will be glad to lend it out. Only problem is it is very fragile, and must be handled caefully, took two hours to make and I do not wish to do it again.

Drop me an email if you need it.

 

[MLee]

sending unit

WAHarrison;

it has been mentioned here that one should check the lift pump filter screen, and clean it out because that is where alot of the float goes. when i did mine the top of the float had rubbed 0f and caused a low reading on the gage, though saturation of the float. we need a brass float or something that won't take on fuel. also bent my float rod down a little to keep it away from the tank. i always fill my tank to the most i can get in.



just my penny's worth.



Marv.

 

[JPETE]

HAVE PUT IN MUCHO CRANK SEALS, INSTALL SEAL IN COVER ,PUT PLASTIC SLEEVE INTO SEAL AFT SIDE( SMALL END OF SLEEVE),LARGER BELLED END GOES OVER CRANK, GENTLY PUSH COVER ON TO CRANK INSTALL A COUPLE LONG BOLTS FOR GUIDES PULL PLASTIC SLEEVE OUT . MAKE SURE CRANK AND SEAL ARE CLEAN AND DRY DRY DRY ,THE SEAL WILL SHRINK AROUND THE CRANK AND TRANSFERE A LITTLE TEFLON TO THE CRANK ON START UP. IF YOU HAVE A WORN AREA ON THE CRANK YOU CAN ADJUST YOUR SEAL DEPTH TO RUN ON A VIRGIN AREA OF THE CRANK, NEVER HAD A LEAK, YET MY SEAL DRIVER SETS DEPTH SLIGHTLY DEEP . TEFLON SEALS ALWAYS SHRINK OR EXPAND TO THEIR ORGINAL SIZE . I WORK JET ENGINES THEY ARE USED ALL OVER THEM BOTH STATIC AND DYNAMIC.